Jump to content

double fusee bracket clock


rajeshvyas

Recommended Posts

oldhippy, thanks. yesterday i tried with 20" same brass (0.8mm thick) hand but it did not worked it stopped between 7-9 position. then i reduced the length to 18" + reduced the thickness to 0.6mm and it worked-and still it is working keeping perfect time. can u suggest me the best suitable (especially for such large size clock) some more light metal for making hands? i am also planning to make rib to give more strength.   

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Aluminum would be my choice if it needed to be longer. You can go quite thin and place a center crease in the hand to stiffen it along it's length (or curve it)

You can always "skeletonize" whatever hand you choose too, and I think the counterweight idea was already mentioned, for the opposite side of the pinion.

Poising the hand on it's pinion should eliminate the "positional error" of the load on the movement, so it's not faster after noon as compared to before noon. Something crude would do- it wouldn't need to be "balance wheel" perfect.

I have often pondered this with wristwatches (poising the hands), but there isn't much point, due to the infinite positions the watch is kept in at any time. But a clock on the wall is always "noon up" so it's a bit easier to manage I think.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The movement is all ready fitted with the counter weight. Aluminum will be to flimsy and skeletonized hand will not be in keeping with this movement. I'm pretty sure the movement is the type that would be over hanging a shop or in a large hall type room. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think I’ve only just understood this “counterweight” query. So, there is already a counterweight attached to the motion works..... if you disengage the going train then you’ll be able to judge what length of hand counteracts the built-in weight. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

rodabod, yes the counter weight is already fitted to the movement. now to judge the length of minute hand if i disengaged the counterweight then how i will know the load carrying capacity of the movement? i have already tried with 18" brass 0.6mm thick hand which runs perfectly OK. today i am increasing the length to 20" and again try. if 20" works well i guess i must stop more experiment and finalize the length! 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

One thing to watch out for is the excessive positive drive that you could get if the hand was significantly heavy and falling (so, say at the 15 minute mark).
 

Recoil escapements are good at dealing with varying drive/amplitude, but it doesn’t necessarily make it a good idea to design it to vary significantly. 
 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • But it also makes it seem less susceptible to gravity. If you place a droplet of oil on an epilame-treated surface the droplet of oil will still stay in place even if you then flip the surface from a horizontal to a vertical position. That is, the oil droplet remains anchored, and that's the purpose of epilame. If it was just a matter of creating an oleophobic surface we could probably use other, less expensive, methods!? I don't know @Waggy but my gut feeling tells me you're spot on (pun intended!). I believe the oleophobic property is a side effect of epilame which is designed to keep the oil anchored.
    • Saturday morning 27/4 Sunday evening 28/4 Monday evening 29/4 Floor has a drain in the middle so I am hoping that there is very little fall on it, if any. Room is about 2.5 x 2.5 metres square. Can only use about 1/2 of one wall on the right of the pictures which has a sliding glass door in it. And only about 3/4 of the wall to the left of the pictures as it has the door to the house in it. Progress. 🙂 
    • This makes much more sense now, the oil is withdrawing itself to make as little contact with the epilame as possible. Same principle as wax on a car creates a hyrophobic surface that makes the cohesive properties of water molecules pull together.  The water beads run off only when under the influence of gravity but still remain cohesively beaded up. And as mentioned earlier a pivot would keep the oil in place on a cap jewel.  Epilame on an escapement would be a different scenario, there is nothing to hold the oil in position if gravity tugs at the bead to move, plus the escape teeth pull the oil about Maybe this is why its suggested to run the watch for a short while to remove the epilame to make two oleophobic surfaces either side of the oil, creating a ring of fire 🔥 around it 😅 The oil is repelled by every surface of the epilame even that which it sits upon. So the oil pulls together to make as little contact with it as possible, but the oil cant float above that area, it can only sit there on top of it. Under gravity the oil could potentially run away as an oil bead, unless the epilame has an adhesive property which i dont think it does ? So something else keeps it in position ie a pivot under a cap jewel . But that isn't the case in a pallet jewel situation. 
    • As with every skill it watchmaking, it takes practice. Notice at the top of the document it says, "Practical work - 40 hours".  I can get the balance wheels 'close enough' to flat, but never seem to get them perfect. Same with gear wheels. Guess I need more practice.
    • Has it got a beat adjustment on the platform or is it a fixed hairspring? in short what you are looking at to get it just about in beat is to get the roller jewel sitting dead centre between the banking pins. So remove the platform and take of the pallet fork and escape wheel to give you clear line of site, sit the platform with the balance in place and with it level look between the banking pins and see if the roller jewel is sitting between them, if it is nice and central its there or there abouts in beat, if its not the the position of the pinned end of the hairspring needs to be adjusted to move the roller jewel into the correct position, thats why I asked if it has an adjustment on the platform or not, if it has its an easier job. 
×
×
  • Create New...