Jump to content

Kaiser 1930s Clock Issues. Please help


ReeceJ

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys

New to clock repair do need help. As the photos show.  I have a 1930s Kaiser clock which has an issue unwinding the spring rapidly. It looks like there's an issue with the escapement. Can anyone offer advise regarding the escapement and if you can see any big issues or damage etc. Also advice on how it actually works etc. 

Thanks in advance.

cheers Reece

1B69B6FE-AF24-479E-ADA1-17DE88A956B9.png

AD7EB056-9BCD-4FFE-9613-7B071292A179.png

4828BBF3-94B9-4D45-A1AF-6F671526A11E.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Welcome to the forum ReeceJ.
There seems to be a couple of faults on your clock . The first thing you could do is to look if there are any pins on your fork (pin lever) , when I look at the upper picture it looks like they broken off. Next you should fix that hairspring.
After you done a bit of clock repair you could say hi to the crowd which are eager to know a little about you here.
https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/forum/23-introduce-yourself-here/

 

Edited by HSL
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi and welcome to the forum Reece.  Like the others I would say thet the pallet/fork pins are broken off and the balance spring is not flat.  How did the pallet pins get broken off.  If they just sheared then check out the wheels for damaged teeth and bent pivots while its dismantled.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 minutes ago, ReeceJ said:

Great thanks for the awesome input guys. I'll look to get what's left of the existing pins out and from reading, may try fitting with modified sewing needles. Anyone here done this before?

 

cheers 

Have you looked into replacing the pins or the fork complete. Don't matrial houses supply new ones. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hi nickelsilver, thanks for the great explanation and the links! I'll take a good look in the article.  Especially this is great news to hear! Looking through forums and youtube videos I was informed to 'fist find a case and then fit a movement for it'. But seems that's not the case for pocket watches at least?  I guess I should be looking to find some 'male square bench keys' for now. I was thinking of winding the mainspring using a screwdriver directly, but I found a thread that you've replied on, saying that it could damage the spring. 
    • Murks, The rate and amplitude look OK, and the amplitude should improve once the oils you have used get a chance to move bed-in, also I notice that you are using default 52 degrees for the lift angle, if you get the real lift angle (assuming it's not actually 52) this will change your amplitude - maybe higher, maybe lower. I notice that the beat error is a little high, but not crazy high. At the risk of upsetting the purists, if the balance has an adjustment arm I would go ahead and try and get this <0.3 ms, but if it does not have an adjustable arm then I would probably leave well alone. Just my opinion.
    • Hi everyone on my timegrapher it showing this do a make anymore adjustment someone let me know ?    
    • Maybe I'm over simplifying this and I'm a little late to the discussion, but just by my looking at oil when I use it on a treated cap jewel  the oil stays in one nice bubble, but when I don't it spreads out to the edges of the jewel. I'm not sure (but could well be wrong) but the analogy of a waxed car and rain is accurate in this case, the wax is very hydrophobic and repels the water, however, the process epilame works by is a different physical process based upon cohesion/adhesion (oleophilic) not repulsion (oleophobic)  at least as far as I have read/observed. If one were to use a oleophobic substance equivalent to wax (hydrophobic) then one would need to create a donut shape to fence in the oil, however if one used such a strategy with a epilame which is oleophilic then the oil would sit on the ring of the donut and not in the 'donut hole', exactly where you don't want it. Even if the oil is smeared then the oleophilic epilame should pull it back to the center (see diagram below). Reference For interest the chemical in epilame is 2-(PERFLUOROHEXYL) ETHYL METHACRYLATE, CAS NO: 2144-53-8
    • Looks lint the teeth on the hour wheel aren't meshing with the teeth on the calendar intermediate wheel, maybe the hour wheel is sitting on top of this instead of meshing?        
×
×
  • Create New...