Jump to content

Bent Roller Table


Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

 

Hope everybody’s well and staying safe. I have found myself in a pretty awkward situation and have a slightly bent roller table as can be seen below. I haven’t pushed it home yet as I didn’t want to exacerbate it’s condition and know it won’t be functional in this state.

 

11b5d9fb164835fcb43e5afa0d13831d.jpg

 

 

 

Just wondering if anybody has come across this before and/or know how it could be fixed. I have a staking set and a jeweling tool that could be used for reference.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Hi guys,
 
Hope everybody’s well and staying safe. I have found myself in a pretty awkward situation and have a slightly bent roller table as can be seen below. I haven’t pushed it home yet as I didn’t want to exacerbate it’s condition and know it won’t be functional in this state.
 
11b5d9fb164835fcb43e5afa0d13831d.jpg&key=fc4e782aad42808e08b628c1c3161ee801369988e7661df172f6e3de761a11a5
 
 
 
Just wondering if anybody has come across this before and/or know how it could be fixed. I have a staking set and a jeweling tool that could be used for reference.
 
 

I would remove it, heat it up and remove the impulse Jewel. Then I would heat it up again and flatten it with a flat stake.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, jdrichard said:


I would remove it, heat it up and remove the impulse Jewel. Then I would heat it up again and flatten it with a flat stake.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Out of curiosity, when you heat parts like this up, what tool do you use? And do you have a good indicator for when it's warm enough? Or is it trial and error?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 minutes ago, MrBeam said:

Out of curiosity, when you heat parts like this up, what tool do you use? And do you have a good indicator for when it's warm enough? Or is it trial and error?

I'm curious too. Please tell us more. Thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That has probably bent during removal. I’ve had that happen when using a Bradux roller remover when it’s perhaps been rusted-on or someone used adhesive. 

The hardness of the steel may not be that great. But simply punching down on the roller table may not get it flat with respect to the hole through its centre.... do you have a spare broken staff you use as a stake underneath it?

If it’s easy to get an inexpensive spare then personally I’d try punching it with the impulse jewel in situ. Yes, it may shatter the shellac and drop the jewel out. You would need a punch which has a cut-out to clear the impulse jewel. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Out of curiosity, when you heat parts like this up, what tool do you use? And do you have a good indicator for when it's warm enough? Or is it trial and error?

I depends on annealing and tempering requirements and what you what to do with the steel.if you heat up the metal to straw color and let it cool naturally, bending it is not an issue. Afterward you need to heat it and plunge the part into oil at just the right time to make it hard but not brittle. Lots of practice required.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That has probably bent during removal. I’ve had that happen when using a Bradux roller remover when it’s perhaps been rusted-on or someone used adhesive. 

The hardness of the steel may not be that great. But simply punching down on the roller table may not get it flat with respect to the hole through its centre.... do you have a spare broken staff you use as a stake underneath it?
If it’s easy to get an inexpensive spare then personally I’d try punching it with the impulse jewel in situ. Yes, it may shatter the shellac and drop the jewel out. You would need a punch which has a cut-out to clear the impulse jewel. 

Cheers guys! I agree and believe it was a problem with the removal. I used a Bradux roller remover for the first time so that must have been it.

On a positive note, at least the lesson was learnt on a relatively common movement. I do have the old staff so will give that a go tonight. Should be a good experience even if it doesn’t work.

The movement is a Peseux 170 so I’ve had a look on the Jules Borel database to see if I have a replacement on any movement I have knocking around. I believe ‘ROLLER 200X90X42’ refers to the roller table on the following website; http:// http://www.julesborel.com/s.nl/it.I/id.7/.f
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, MaverickWaz said:


Cheers guys! I agree and believe it was a problem with the removal. I used a Bradux roller remover for the first time so that must have been it.

On a positive note, at least the lesson was learnt on a relatively common movement. I do have the old staff so will give that a go tonight. Should be a good experience even if it doesn’t work.

The movement is a Peseux 170 so I’ve had a look on the Jules Borel database to see if I have a replacement on any movement I have knocking around. I believe ‘ROLLER 200X90X42’ refers to the roller table on the following website; http:// http://www.julesborel.com/s.nl/it.I/id.7/.f

Quick update, after attempting the staking this evening I managed to mangle it past the point of repair. I appreciate all of your advice in the matter though. The failure was more due to the worker than the process of repair! Again, the lesson here is be a lot more careful with roller tables.

I now have a couple of options;

1) Purchase a balance roller from Cousins, relatively cheap (approx. £5) however I'm unsure if it comes with the jewel included. Can anybody confirm this?

2) Purchase a donor movement from an applicable movement outlined on the Jules Borel watch Database. Probably easier if the above option doesn't contain the roller jewel. Does the selection labelled ROLLER refer to the Balance roller?

3) As mentioned by Nucejoe, see if anybody here has one that's taking up space and they'd be ok letting it go. I'd be more than willing to purchase it from them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Oh well, if Master @nickelsilver says it's the way to go, then it is the way to go! I stand corrected! 🫡 Are there any other places where you're supposed to remove the epilame from the contact point of rubbing? I don't think so! Thanks for the effort @Neverenoughwatches, much appreciated! 🙂👍
    • If you're seeking advice for your "Harvard GSD" MArch II application essays, I'd recommend taking a thoughtful approach. Reflect deeply on your experiences, passions, and goals, and tailor your essays to showcase your unique perspective and potential contributions to the program. As for resources, I recently stumbled upon a gret platform for essays, and I must say, it's been quite helpful. Their selection of pre-written essays covers a wide range of topics, and their professional writers can also assist with custom essays tailored to your specific needs. Check out their offerings here: https://essaypro.com/essays-for-sale. Remember, authenticity is key in your application essays. Good luck!
    • For clarity and ease of testing, I redid that diagram, flipping the circuit to match the layout of the physical watch.
    • Hello, Thanks for the reply. The old jewel will get pushed out from the "outside" which is the dial side. The new jewel will get pressed in from the inside (shown below) which is the movement side, correct?     And the old jewel and spring will get pushed from the is the "outside" which is the dial side. Thank you very much for the information. I will take out the KIF spring and save it. Will update when the new jewel is in place!   Regards, Joe
    • It's a little circlip style retaining clip to keep the pinion from riding up out of position.
×
×
  • Create New...