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Hi all. I recently purchased a Leonidas Bidynator automatic watch to restore. I have repaired and serviced the movement and polished the case but I am not sure what to do with the dial. 
 

It was in very poor condition but a light clean in water revealed small amounts of what looks like silver but the rest has worn off leaving just base brass. 
 

my question is, is this silver the same as a clock dial and could be resilvered using resilvering powder or would I be better off painting it. 
 

I have attached a picture of what I believe to be the same watch in good condition. 
 

as usual many thanks in advance. 

E21C5002-3F12-43C2-98B0-76427EA44BDC.png

Edited by Specializedjim
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The dial is in a bad way. You can't re-silver that dial, looks like the numbers are fixed, you could have it restored but that will be expensive. Your best bet is to look for a replacement dial. You could look on the various suppliers sites or try ebay.  I also note the hour wheel is missing. 

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Thanks for your help. Yes your right it is bad and from what I can see it’s also quite rare.  Can you answers the following for me please. 

You said the numbers are fixed and I already noted they are not pinned through the dial. So are they glued?

If I could get the numerals off and polish the dial to a good state could I resilver (do you think that’s what it was originally) or would paint be better. 
 
well spotted on the hour wheel I already have a spare. 
 

many thanks for your help. 

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You say it is quite rare. I would have it restored by professionals. I'm not sure how the numbers are fixed. I have only re-silvered Long Case Clock dials which is fairly easy with the right materials.  

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Hi again

I have had ago at restoring the dial using spray paint and a ink jet printed numerals etc. I think I will have another go at it now that I have a better idea of what I’m doing but I think it looks ok for a first attempt. Also the completely knackered movement I repaired seems to be going well so overall I’m happy with my efforts for a £20 punt. Let me know what you think. Many thanks for all the help received. 
 

image.jpg

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Now, redo it, but take lots of photos/video and repost as a how-to. I feel like dial refinishing is one of those semi-lost arts. They were cheap/unloved, and so were either parted or tossed, and anything with any value was done professionally. Dial refinishing needs to stage a serious comeback in the DIYverse.

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Hi again
I have had ago at restoring the dial using spray paint and a ink jet printed numerals etc. I think I will have another go at it now that I have a better idea of what I’m doing but I think it looks ok for a first attempt. Also the completely knackered movement I repaired seems to be going well so overall I’m happy with my efforts for a £20 punt. Let me know what you think. Many thanks for all the help received. 
 
image.thumb.jpg.67af186f24fee63e64dc63bb0e48f377.jpg
WOW !!! great job ...
I've been "playing with dials" for some years now and I'm amazed how quickly you did that ... congrats !!!
Now your oldie looks like a 4925 ...
8cf1f7644db8e71d9bd7d9f1bc67418a.jpg

Envoyé de mon moto g(7) power en utilisant Tapatalk

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  • 1 month later...
On 5/21/2020 at 6:18 PM, spectre6000 said:

Now, redo it, but take lots of photos/video and repost as a how-to. I feel like dial refinishing is one of those semi-lost arts. They were cheap/unloved, and so were either parted or tossed, and anything with any value was done professionally. Dial refinishing needs to stage a serious comeback in the DIYverse.

Very true! And this is the reason why I am here on the board to find ways to fix my dial of Omega 155.006, but haven't found a solution yet

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  • 1 year later...


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    • Yes, I was referring to the (jewelled) gear train with HP (most of the time, I use 1300, but when Rolex says 1000, I'll use 1000).
    • did I miss the update of the message of something changing?      
    • I suppose it would depend upon what your lubricating with those? for instance what does the manufacturer say about those lubricants? I have a PDF from the manufacture and a rather peculiar statement found on the bottom of the chart. my suspicion is the reason the recommending would be without epilam the HP oils like the spread except when they're in Ruby jewel's with steel pivots. tableEN lubrication 2020.pdf
    • These types of hairsprings become weak with age and very fragile. Which I expect it is that giving you trouble, and that wheel is not the correct one, if it were not bent I don't think the movement would run as the teeth are not the correct height. The problem you have is price which depends on you. It can be repaired but is it worth it to you, because there is little value in the clock. A wheel can be made and hairspring replaced. Or hang on to it and keep looking on ebay which is your best bet for replacement parts or even a complete movement but it will be like finding a needle in a haystack. 
    • I did that also for a few movements - well, mainly in/around the train jewels. I made big efforts to epilame the mainplate WITHOUT getting Epilame into the Pallet fork jewels (where it's not supposed to be, right?). I made litte barriers with Rodico around that jewel and used drops from a syringe to apply on the rest.  However, I've now stopped doing this. For three reasons: 1. It's a hassle and consumes more of this liquid gold. 2. I didn't see the need when using HP1000/HP1300 lubricants and grease for most part. The two places where I'd use 9010 (i.e. escape wheel and balance) receive Epilame in specific places... or the cap-jewel-setting of the balance suspends the oil sufficiently be capillary action (see my "conflict" about using Epilame on the balance jewels).  3. Lastly, and here I really wonder about yours and others' experiences: I felt that applying Epliame to the train jewels left them looking hazy (borderline dirty) compared to the (painstakingly achieved) sparkly clean results of my cleaning process. I just can't help but think that the Epilame residuals would mix with the oil and cause more friction/wear. I don't know.    simple: it'll stay there. It won't move any further. That's exactly what is happening if you epilame a cap stone. You end up placing the 9010 right on top of the epilame and the oil will sit nicely on that spot.
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