Jump to content

Making staking anvils


jdm

Recommended Posts

I have restored the below which is nice but  a bit quite limited. So I thought of turning few anvils or extra stakes  to complete the set - mainly for show.
What are the essential shapes / sizes that are recommended, and what material? I can also list the included stakes

P1250290.JPG.71b52389e6a0fe7ad79c9267668a15bf.JPG

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You'll want to get some 4.7mm rod for stakes, for stumps I use 8mm. I don't know what metals are available near you, in the U.S. the standard would be O-1, here the standard for watch parts (and it works fine for tools) is Sandvik 20AP. Sandvik products have become difficult to get and the price has skyrocketed; there is a terrific metal supplier Klein Metals who make equivalents to Sandvik products. Their LAW 100pb is a direct replacement for 20AP, and LAW 100x is a direct replacement for Sandvik's non-leaded replacement for 20AP. All of the above are easily heat treated and very forgivable regarding exact hardening temp (i.e. heat to orange, quench, clean up, and temper to color needed).

http://www.kleinmetals.ch

As for shapes, most useful is a range of fairly simple stumps with varying hole sizes in them. For punches, the most used are convex tip with hole and flat face with hole, in incremental sizes for doing riveting work (staffs), convex with no hole (closing holes), flat tip of varying diameters for knocking out pins etc., and then concave tips which get used less often but can be handy. Any other special shapes are best made up as needed. For one-offs I frequently use brass for stumps, no need in many cases to use steel and do heat treatment.

 

Here's a pic of some of my stumps (and pushers for the jeweling tool), looks like a mess but I know where everything is! The ones in the plexi holder get the most use.

 

 

stumps and pushers.jpg

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, nickelsilver said:

You'll want to get some 4.7mm rod for stakes, for stumps I use 8mm. I don't know what metals are available near you, in the U.S. the standard would be O-1, here the standard for watch parts (and it works fine for tools) is Sandvik 20AP. Sandvik products have become difficult to get and the price has skyrocketed; there is a terrific metal supplier Klein Metals who make equivalents to Sandvik products. Their LAW 100pb is a direct replacement for 20AP, and LAW 100x is a direct replacement for Sandvik's non-leaded replacement for 20AP. All of the above are easily heat treated and very forgivable regarding exact hardening temp (i.e. heat to orange, quench, clean up, and temper to color needed).

http://www.kleinmetals.ch

As for shapes, most useful is a range of fairly simple stumps with varying hole sizes in them. For punches, the most used are convex tip with hole and flat face with hole, in incremental sizes for doing riveting work (staffs), convex with no hole (closing holes), flat tip of varying diameters for knocking out pins etc., and then concave tips which get used less often but can be handy. Any other special shapes are best made up as needed. For one-offs I frequently use brass for stumps, no need in many cases to use steel and do heat treatment.

 

Here's a pic of some of my stumps (and pushers for the jeweling tool), looks like a mess but I know where everything is! The ones in the plexi holder get the most use.

 

 

stumps and pushers.jpg

  in the US we have "drill rod"  oil or water quench.   i don't know the metal formula,  but it works good for me.   vin

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

24 minutes ago, vinn3 said:

  in the US we have "drill rod"  oil or water quench.   i don't know the metal formula,  but it works good for me.   vin

That would be O-1 in most cases (oil quench), or W-1 (water quench). Available in any diameter imaginable, at least O-1 is, and flat bars. I wish it was available here as it's dirt cheap, available everywhere (there), and an excellent tool steel.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi NIcklesilver  quite an array of tool stumps, impressive.     It can't be a mess if they are your tools and know where everything is.  It is organised.  stay safe
What keeps it fun is although I'm "independent" I share a workshop with a 4 man company, a numbers guy, a technical guy (designs/engineers the stuff) and two watchmakers. All great guys. The watchmakers are young and poorly tooled, so I give them free reign on my tools, machines, everything. So it does happen that I go for that favorite stump or broach or micrometer or whatever and have to make the rounds to find it. Usually makes for a much needed break!
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Have you got the pallet fork installed in the movement when you see the train move when using the setting works? As nevenbekriev said, without the pallet fork to lock the train, the behaviour you are describing is normal. If this is happening with the pallet fork installed, you have a problem in the gear train, it should be immobile when the pallet fork is locking the escape wheel.  The fit of the circlip above the pinions on that wheel is crooked in your pictures, it should sit flat up against the upper pinion as in Marc’s picture.  Hope that helps, Mark
    • Hi I got a Jaeger LeCoultre K911 movement, where one of the stems was broken. Part no. Should be 401.  Im based in Europe and tried Cousins but its discontinued. They except to get stem in stock for cal. K916 but will that work? Or Is there a way out to join the ends?
    • The part was how it fell out of the movement - the train wheel bridge wasn’t screwed in.    I’ll probably dismantle the part, if I can, to work it out.    The train of wheels ran fine - it was only once the keyless works were installed I noticed the problem. 
    • Hello, I am about 5 months into watchmaking and I love it!   The attention to precise detail is what really attracts me to it. (and the tools!) I am working on a 16 jewel 43mm pocket watch movement.   There are no markings besides a serial number (122248) .  The balance staff needs replacement. The roller side pivot broke off.  I successfully removed the hairspring using Bergeon 5430's.  I successfully removed the roller using Bergeon 2810.   Did i mention I love the tools?! I removed the staff from the balance wheel using a vintage K&D staff removal tool  with my Bergeon 15285 (that's the one that comes with a micrometer adjustment so it can be used as a jewel press as well as a traditional staking tool...it's sooooo cool...sorry..  can you tell i love the tools?) No more digressing..  I measured the damaged staff in all the relevant areas but I have to estimate on some because one of the pivots is missing. A = Full length  A= 4.80mm  (that's without the one pivot...if you assume that the missing pivot is the same length as the other pivot (I'm sure it's not)  then A = 5.12 mm...(can I assume 5.00mm here?) F=  Hair spring collet seat  F=  .89mm   (safe to assume .90 here? .. I am sure that my measurement's would at least contain  .01 mm error ?) G = balance wheel seat  G = 1.23 mm  (1.20mm?) H  =  roller staff  H =  .59mm  (.60 mm?) B  = bottom of the wheel to roller pivot   B  = 2.97mm  (3.00 mm?)     here I am estimating  again because this pivot is missing. So my friends, and I thank you profusely,  can you point me in the right direction as to how to proceed? Do i buy individual staffs?  or an assortment?   Since I don't know exactly the name of the manufacturer, will that be a fatal hindrance?   Tbh, I'm not even sure what country of origin this movement is. Thank you!    
    • Thats why i asked that question earlier, what happens if lubrication is placed directly on top of epilame ?  As opposed to walled within its non epilamed area . I'm not saying its right, i have no idea , just asking questions. 
×
×
  • Create New...