-
Recently Browsing
- No registered users viewing this page.
-
Topics
-
-
Posts
-
Dr ranfft sees no difference between venus 180, 181 & 182, and other calibs of same family are highly likely to fit. @donutdan Go on to the link below to see all related calibs, of all them you might find one to buy. https://ranfft.org/caliber/10591-Venus-180 A venus movement is a terrible thing to deprive of TLC. Good luck -
Hi John, I didn‘t adress you or your statement, just grabbed a fitting quote 🙂. Maybe it‘s me, but always getting a bit nervous reading about „parts swapping“. How often did we read here that swapping back and forth didn’t help? Why not try to advance with someone‘s skill and do repair. Frank -
Yet another Rolex has landed on my bench — this time a Sea-Dweller, ref. 16600, equipped with the trusty calibre 3135, the same calibre as the last one I worked on. The time and date settings are completely dead. I guess the yoke has slipped out of engagement with the sliding pinion. It remains to be investigated. If that is the case, it certainly makes you wonder how it can occur, considering the outstanding quality of these movements. Perhaps it was subjected to trauma? Perhaps a sloppy assembly of the keyless works? However, it is running very well. A you can see, the maximum delta is seven seconds. The maximum acceptable delta for this movement, as specified by Rolex, is 10 seconds. The average rate fully wound in five positions (crown down, left, up, dial up, and dial down) is 1.8 seconds per day. The rate tolerance as specified by Rolex is -2/+4 s/d. So it's all looking pretty perfect. What's very strange, though, and something I can't get my head around, is that the first time I measured it on my timing machine, fully wound (I could hear the mainspring slip in small steps while being wound), it performed quite poorly. The rates and beat errors were fine, but the horizontal amplitudes were around 235°, and the vertical amplitudes were all below 200°, which is the minimum amplitude as specified by Rolex after 24h. Performing that poorly, being fully wound, I felt it wasn't much use to measure it again after 24h. However, to be thorough, I nevertheless did and to my astonishment, I got the results as seen in the table above - "Fully wound minus 24h (Not Serviced)" - At that point, I decided to give the watch another full wind and take another measurement, and I got the results as seen in the above table - "Fully wound (Not Serviced)". If anyone has any idea about why I got such a poor performance the first time around, please let me know! As can be seen, the oil beneath the cap jewel is noticeably depleting. If it wasn't for the faulty date and time setting, I think this amazing watch could have been left alone for another year or two, but considering it has to be repaired, why not service it as well? Especially considering the funny behaviour in amplitude I described in the previous paragraph. What do you think? All opinions are appreciated, but if one of our much-appreciated pros, such as @Jon, @JohnR725, @nickelsilver, or @nevenbekriev could weigh in, I'm sure it would be appreciated by many. The fit between the bracelet ends and the lugs was very tight, and I couldn't get the bracelet out by simply pressing the spring bar from one side through the drilled lugs. I'm sure there's an original Rolex tool for it unavailable to enthusiasts, and even so would cost a small fortune. During the years, I've bought a small fortune worth of tools. Some of those tools have been a complete disappointment and a waste of money, such as the spring bar tool in the picture, which I've never used and have been meaning to resell for a long time. However, as I couldn't get the bracelet out, I came to think of it, and cut myself two pieces of brass rod, deburred and polished the ends, bent them and inserted them in the tool. It worked like a charm. I’ve got to say, I’m kind of proud of this little bit of brilliance. If I’d read something like this when I was just starting, eight or nine years ago, I would’ve been super impressed. Especially considering I could barely tell which end of a screwdriver to use back then. Okay, maybe I’m exaggerating a bit, but you get the gist! I just hate it when you can't unscrew the case back by using a rubber ball. Is it really necessary to screw the case back on so hard? It's a sincere question. Maybe it is necessary for a true diver's watch like this Sea-Dweller. Fortunately, I had the right size, a number five Rolex die in my set. Getting the case back off, I had to bring out the "Big Gun". Even so, I had to apply what felt like an insane amount of force. I actually worried the tool might break, and it was not a pleasant experience. So, two thumbs down for the previous repairer, who... ...also decided it was necessary to scratch up the inside of the case back lid, which likely halves its market value. I wouldn't be surprised if the same guy caused the setting problems by being sloppy while assembling the keyless works. We shall see! I’m really looking forward to hearing your thoughts on my questions and musings! -
I find myself in a frustrating situation, and if I have learned anything yet it's that there might be a specific old tool to get me out of it. I am rebuilding an early grade Elgin 18 size full plate movement, just restaffed and installed a new roller jewel. Next I found that the pallet stones were loose and added shellac to them, reassembled but the watch does not run. Observing the escapement through the holes, it is clear the entry stone needs to move in slightly. So I know what I need to do at this stage, but I fully expect to need a few adjustments of one or both stones. I don't want to move the banking pins because it did want to tick before I noticed the pallets were not secure. Question is, on a full plate movement this is incredibly inconvenient to make a change, let the shellac harden, and reassemble the entire full plate watch in order to observe the escapement action. It can only be seen from the dial side through the small holes in the pillar plate, so even the balance must be installed in order to manually operate it from the back. Anyone know how this was done 120 years ago? Is there a tool or fixture that can be used for the job outside the watch? Depthing tool maybe? You all like pictures, so here are some. Final cleaning has not happened yet, thus the dirt and oil on the 4th wheel jewel. -
Okay, I will try to help if I have enough knowledge to write a reply to someone or if I have information to share. Thank you so much for writing a reply. Have a nice day.
-
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.