Jump to content

First time experience with those TINY screws


JWSimm11

Recommended Posts

So,  My watch Longines L3678476,  7750 movement with chronograph.  The movement ring was out of alignment and the pushers action where a little rough.  I removed the movement from the case and gently cleaned the case.  Removal took all of 10min.  Putting those TINY screws back in to the two anchors that hold the movement secure within the case... It took me the better part of 3 hours the get them back into the holes.  I was seriously thinking I might have to take it a different watch repair place.... but perseverance won out ... Thank God...... Mark makes it look WAY to easy and the VERY CHEAP tools i bought where not a huge help either.    I am getting a cheap mechanical movement to practice removing and installing tiny screws,  and looking for a better set of precision screw drivers.  Any one else have similar first time experience...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mov't ring, tabs and screws. Sometime one struggles placing back springbars, mind you. With time you will acquire handiness that is just the understanding how tiny parts behave, what is the best way to handle them, and controlling your movements and techniques. Sometime it helps using small tricks, e.g. using, rodico etc. Don't be too quick in blaming tools. is use now a $15 drivers set, it was a $10 one before, and have noting to complain about either, but you MUST make sure that the tip is dressed in the right shape to wedge in, otherwise the poor grip will just make you go crazy.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi As jdm explains its not always the tools ,I have been using a moderate set of drivers  but a set of dumont tweezers and had no problems over many years, Its more down to patience and aquiring the technique and dexterity required and that comes with experience and time, the more you do the better you get and you will not even realise how adept you have become it just sneaks up on you. well done on you first attempt.:thumbsu:

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Excellent advice above, particularly about dressing your screwdriver blades correctly.  I started with a £5 set of drivers from Maplin which were fine as long as I looked after the tips.  I would only add that I found modest magnification to be a great help when handling those little screws.  I always use a 2.5x Binomag for all general watch work with higher mag devices for the trickier jobs.  Get some magnification and stick at it, you will improve in no time.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • That's one beautiful timepiece! Love the big crown in proportion to the case. Perhaps a ladies' watch, but I don't think so. I have a "modern Ingersoll" watch, but it has nothing to do with the original brand (Miyota 9015 movement). Interesting synonym for synthetic oils! 😆 There is, of course, a limit to how large a volume of oil epilame can bind and hold in place. If the oleophobic effect is too strong then it can become a problem. I'm not sure where I heard or read it, but as I understand it, the active ingredient in a bottle of epilame is extremely small and more than 99% of the contents of the bottle is just a transfer agent. If the active ingredient becomes too concentrated, which it can become over time, or if the product is of poor quality, the oleophobic effect is amplified. This in turn causes the applied oil to look like a gummed-up ball on the surface of the treated part. If that happens, we know that the active ingredient has become too concentrated. What we want is for the oil to bind but not to the point where it is formed into an excessively round ball on the surface. The highlighted text in the patent that you refer to describes well the problem that can arise with too high a concentration of the active ingredient. However, I would be extremely surprised if the entire amount of oil leaves the treated surface as water on wax would. At present, I am convinced that the analogy between wax and water on the one hand and epilame and oil on the other is incorrect. Epilame is described as binding and that is also my absolute experience. Epilame probably has some repelling effect but that is not its main purpose and that is not how epilame is designed and works. The method of abrading the epilame treatment from the section of the pallet stones coming in contact with the escape wheel teeth seems after even more research to be well established, but if it actually works, if so how and why is beyond what I can currently understand. Perhaps it is just to do and trust that it is based on well-established experience. I am, after all, inclined to think so.
    • Sorry to jump in here, but I didn't want to start a new thread when there's already one regarding the second hand watch market. Can anyone tell me what I should be looking at when buying watches from eBay? I see loads on there for quite cheap, but after reading this thread I'm guessing they're all garbage and not worth the time? I recently bought an old Elco watch for 99p, just to practice on. I'm also really fond of the look of Services watches and Smiths Empire watches. I keep seeing them listed for around 5 or 6 pounds. Are they not worth the time buying? I'm not looking to sell watches to make a profit. I just want to buy watches I like the look of and wear them, but I also don't want to buy things that are going to be impossible to find parts for, or that have already been abused by someone else and broken beyond repair. Any tips?
    • I tried the Moebius 9415 from any sensible amount, down to microscopic a drop (or "super minimalistic"); the size of droplet which makes you really wonder why one would/should apply anything at all? But to no avail, consistently a lower amplitude compared to my Dr.Tillwich 1-3. Of course, as John mentioned above, the Dr.Tillwich 1-3, just like the Moebius 9010, likes to go somewhere else. Since short however, I'm the (proud?) owner of a bottle of Moebius Fixodrop. Can't say that I'm a proud owner of the 9415. So far, I haven't seen or discovered the "magic" of the 9415. Meanwhile, Moebius 🤣 has my money though.........
    • I used to be quite active on The Lotus Forum when I owned my Esprit. I was there for so long, Bibs asked me to be a moderator. I'm not sure how long I did that for, but I think I turned into the second longest serving moderator. When I 'handed back my keys', Bibs made me a Full Forum Member. Normally this is a paid membership. My reward I suppose for helping out for many years. Bibs (forum owner) is quite active on there and if I am not wrong, don't quote me in other words, I think he once said that the money from memberships didn't cover the running cost. He adds money himself to keep it going. Does Mark have any sort of subscription scheme on here? I'll admit that I never paid to be a member on TLF. I should have. I never did. I agree that it would be a good idea that there is some sort of contingency plan for this forum. I intend on becoming more active on here. Life has just been getting in the way recently. I enrolled on Mark's watch course and was keenly doing that, but even that has had to take a back seat for a while. I am looking forward to getting back into that and also starting to do work on the clocks that I have been amassing. To do that successfully, I see myself needing to lean on the other members here. If for whatever reason this forum was to close, I think a great many of us would struggle.
    • I think we are about there, if there were still lots out there then the cost of a watch from 5 years ago would be around the same as it is now (allowing for inflation). Given that the price has gone up several times over we can only assume that supply cannot keep up with demand so we must be at or past peak supply, especially if the trend continues. I see even places like Australia, Ukraine and even South America are selling watches on eBay, picking over their stocks, mixed in with fakes and Frankenwatches etc.
×
×
  • Create New...