walk through help

[gary17]

Hi

I was wondering if some one can walk me through a watch strip and clean and more importantly rebuild.

I have had eight attempts with different watches and i can strip em no prob. But rebuilding is a problem.

The problem starts when if i remove the balance. I photo before removing. But while removing the balance the pallets and escape wheel move i have no photo of were they were.

Also when removing the 3rd and 4th escape bar (bridge) if things are not were they should be i don't know were to put em.

The next victim is in pics below.

I'm sure i'm taking things of in  the wrong order.

I would start on the top plate by removing the auto winder.

Please any one with patience and willing to help i would love to learn.

cheers

gary

 

[HSL]

Is that an ETA 2783 or what is it just so one know which movement you want help with? 

[gary17]

Hi

I dont know.

[HSL]

If you look under the balance wheel you should see some numbers.

[Nucejoe]

1. Check if the rotor bearing got a slack.

2. Remove 2 winder module screws to remove the module and rotor attached.

This is prefered to seperate removal of rotor and module.

3. Feel if the balance wheel is standing strong in jewels, simply lift one side of the wheel by tweezers. Observs if jewels move much under the shock springs.  

4. You are ready to release the barrel power.

5. Immediately following power release, remove the cock with balance wheel attached.

6. Remove fork bridge and lift the fork out.  

7. Remove ratchet screw.

Tell us caliber No. No need taking pictures before you get to complications.

Be with you every step of the way.

[gary17]

Hi yer 2783 or 2789 its not so clear.

And thanks nucejoe i will do 1 and 2 of your note

[Nucejoe]

It is eta2783 , 2789 has day date.

[gary17]

HI

Did 1 and trying removing it it still wont come of it feels like the screw in rotor stopping it

Hi i undid the 3rd screw holding it and yes its come of with stuff inside it 

Edited August 9, 2019 by gary17

[HSL]

Think it is a 2783 since you only have the date dial. 
You can look at my walkthrough on the ETA 2824-2, on those movements it should be the escapement differing and the fact 2783 doesnt have the ETAChron system. Your pumps at 21600 and the other runs on 28800. But the most of the parts are in the same place even they somteimes look some different like the cannon pinion.

 

[Nucejoe]

Tension is holding the module.

Refer to eternaltools.com for list of parts and their names.

[gary17]

Yer its off joe

 

Edited August 9, 2019 by gary17

[JohnR725]

As your starting off why not start off with something simpler than this watch like a 6497 for instance. Then practice taking it apart and putting it together a lot of times until you get the feeling of how things work. This watch isn't really considered a beginner's watch.

Not exactly the same automatic but if you want to see a walk through I have a link below.

https://www.eta.ch/swisslab/6497/6947.html

https://www.eta.ch/swisslab/2892a2/2892a2.html

http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&0&2uswk&ETA_2783

[gary17]

Right i've done all that. the screw for the ratchet wheel was not there.

[stevew]

As a beginner always photo or film the dismantle as much as possible. That's the way i started. Get a parts tray and put sections in different compartments

[gary17]

hey 

john i hear you but i'm running short on mech watches to practice on.

 

[gary17]

hey 

john i hear you but i'm running short on mech watches to practice on.

and stevew i do photo it but when i remove a bridge all under neath is everywere

 

[Nucejoe]

Okay. If you know the actual power reserve, proceed with strip down. If not manually wind, to check for premature power discharge. This is where you decide the strength of mainspring and health of barrel wall.

Record and report the number of turns of the crown and the amount of power reserve.

 

[JohnR725]

2 minutes ago, gary17 said:

hey 

john i hear you but i'm running short on mech watches to practice on.

 

The nice thing about the 6497 Is the Chinese have cloned the movement and it's available on eBay. It's something disposable versus destroying the limited supply of watches you currently have.

[HSL]

4 minutes ago, gary17 said:

Right i've done all that. the screw for the ratchet wheel was not there.

You seem to have taken it of when removing the winding mechanism it can be seen on your first pics.

 

[Nucejoe]

You wont know the actual power reserve until you get a screw on ratchet wheel, wind and observe when it discharges. You can Borrow a screw from somewhere else in the movement.

 

[Nucejoe]

If you don,t determine the strength of MS by the actual power reserve ,you pretty well have to purchase a new MS.

 

[HSL]

2 minutes ago, Nucejoe said:

You can Borrow a screw from somewhere else in the movement.

Don't think there is one that fitts elsewhere in the movement!
Isn't it better he learns to stip the movement down, clean and lubricate it and after that start to diagnose the watch, dirt and old lubrication will give the MS poor performance before it have been done. Just a thought since it seems to be a novice..

[gary17]

right johnR752 give us more on 6497 do i just search for that number?

Joe dont know anything about power reserves and the watch winding stem and crown are aol thats why i chose to use this watch.

I have to buy mech watches via ebay i know there cheap. But the downside is some other fool like me has messed with them and bits are missing.

The only other watches i have that work and are complete are a benson 4 diff omega,2 nivida and 2 omega pocket watches a cyma and 2 kienzle but i thought i would leave em until i was able to strip em without killing them as well

[Nucejoe]

You are testing the parts, mechs, functions as you strip the movement. How else would you knowm, what all is good or not.

[Nucejoe]

Sorry HSL, perhaps best would be if gary watches your walkthrough first. I really truely find you a knowlegable horologist.

I try to diagonse faulty parts by testing each at strip down, however.