Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Ive been working on 7750s for over a year now and have run across all sorts of variations etc but the lock 2 functions pn 8200 pictured below is a first. Anyone shed some light on it??acf37ae16451ef6e8cd63919cb5fd270.jpg

 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

 

Posted
I've never seen one like that on ETA 7750. Is it from a clone?
J
I dont know. I bought a spares and it came off it. Could very well be from a clone but the main plate is def an ETA. It seemed as though it was all original at least as far as I could tell.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Posted

I can't tell from the pic, but is it all metal? Likely a variant as you already know....all I found was an older Horotec guide with this (33 Var), but yours doesn't have the second cutout:

1614624965_ScreenShot2019-05-29at10_07_29PM.png.e4fef21336c9bf9dd7ca969c619d7d68.png

Posted
I can't tell from the pic, but is it all metal? Likely a variant as you already know....all I found was an older Horotec guide with this (33 Var), but yours doesn't have the second cutout:
1614624965_ScreenShot2019-05-29at10_07_29PM.png.e4fef21336c9bf9dd7ca969c619d7d68.png
Its like a flat peice of plastice with a wire sticking out. Appears to be teflon or some soft plastic. I have a clone on the way so well see whats inside it. Thanks for looking into it. I wonder if itll perform as the normal one. I honestly dont see the advantage from a manf standpoint making it this way. It almost would seem like itd be more costly than the stamping that the eta parts are made from so thats why im curious.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

  • Thanks 1
Posted (edited)

It may be cheaper to cut out polyethylene  (cheaper than teflon) than to do stamping/grinding metal. It will be informative to see what the clone has, but I did see this on the 'bay so maybe it is ETA:

248220142_ScreenShot2019-05-29at11_54_56PM.thumb.png.a18040db575072d849f569948b0dd7dd.png

Edited by noirrac1j
Posted

I got a 7750 which turns out to be the original made by valjoux before the company was bought by eta. Dosn,t say eta7750 rather val7750. This varient too, came with plastic lever, Dr ranfft tells about the lever in diferent variants, I think the plasic is not a sign of inferior material or clone. Chrome plating is awful and I have never seen a balance wheel move this free in any movement. 

Posted
I got a 7750 which turns out to be the original made by valjoux before the company was bought by eta. Dosn,t say eta7750 rather val7750. This varient too, came with plastic lever, Dr ranfft tells about the lever in diferent variants, I think the plasic is not a sign of inferior material or clone. Chrome plating is awful and I have never seen a balance wheel move this free in any movement. 
Would you mind posting pics for the record????

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Posted
It may be cheaper to cut out polyethylene  (cheaper than teflon) than to do stamping/grinding metal. It will be informative to see what the clone has, but I did see this on the 'bay so maybe it is ETA:
248220142_ScreenShot2019-05-29at11_54_56PM.thumb.png.a18040db575072d849f569948b0dd7dd.png
I agree, however the secondary labor to install the wire is where the cost over run I think would occur as it would have to be done by hand. Anyhow.....it looks like the one I have is in fact an ETA part by your findings. This is good stuff for the 7750 body of knowledge. As always thanks for your input. BTW.....im ready when you are for the next iteration of 3D prints for your project. I posted my thread for the first Bronze CNC run. Im slowly getting up to speed on the CAM programming for the machine in fusion 360. If the machine will do what I think it will do we'll have metalic options at least in soft metals such as bronze.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Posted
2 hours ago, bjd1020 said:

I agree, however the secondary labor to install the wire is where the cost over run I think would occur as it would have to be done by hand. Anyhow.....it looks like the one I have is in fact an ETA part by your findings. This is good stuff for the 7750 body of knowledge. As always thanks for your input. BTW.....im ready when you are for the next iteration of 3D prints for your project. I posted my thread for the first Bronze CNC run. Im slowly getting up to speed on the CAM programming for the machine in fusion 360. If the machine will do what I think it will do we'll have metalic options at least in soft metals such as bronze.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

Great information to have on the 7750. I am going to test a piece of curved plexi for the crystal and also have to try the drill holes for the stem/crown. I'll let you know when I get all that sorted out. Thanks!

J

  • Like 1
  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Well, my fundamental stance is that I want to go in and out without leaving any trace other than a shining, perfectly running movement. So, no scratchings on the inside of the case back lid, no marred screws, no debris, no fingerprints, and so on. That is, my goal is to make it impossible for the FBI to track me down. As a professional, I suppose you might want to keep track of returning watches, but as @JohnR725 mentioned, we can keep detailed computer records without marking the watch at all. That may not be true for every watch, but luxury and COSC-certified movements do have unique numbers. John also says it’s best to leave no sign you were ever there, and I couldn't agree more. Now, suppose the Sea-Dweller I'm working on is one day scrapped, and you want to sell the case-back separately (perhaps the case was destroyed in a plane crash). Then the scribbles on the inside no longer reflect the current movement inside the case. Also, the engraving will likely halve the market value of the case back. It had been "sleeping" for about a week and a half. Yes, the "debris/old lubricant" theory is my hypothesis as well! It will be interesting to see what I find once I have time to start disassembling the movement.
    • I've repaired a few of these, having some success with stripping and cleaning the mechanism.  They are so cheap though, its hardly worth the effort in many cases.
    • Get well soon Old Hippy, torn muscles.,  not good
    • Id love to see how he has the output shaft mounted to this setup, as I have the same rotary stage and stepper in my build.
    • If you see at least one thread protruding, or even a half, then you may have a chance using this "tool", but don't squeeze hard. Lot's of patience, and if you notice any signs of loctite or other adhesives, then apply several drops of acetone on top of broken stem. Use heat (hair dryer) also. You should be able gradually turn it counterclockwise, just like i did on this broken Timex stem, which was glued with something like nail hardener. Then you can use an extender to save your broken stem. https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/513DVvkfW5L.__AC_SX300_SY300_QL70_ML2_.jpg   You can also try cutting a small grove / slot on top of the broken stem to use 0.7mm flat screwdriver.   Depending on the Crown material and Stem material, you can try dissolving the stem. 
×
×
  • Create New...