Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Recently I re-applied shellac to a pallet fork that had many years ago been exposed to ethanol by some careless individual (ho-hum). I was happy with two beautiful blobs of shellac (see pic) and dumped the fork in my little bench jar filled with naphtha, which is also what I use as rinses in the cleaning machine. 

When it came to oiling the pallets after installation, I noticed that my shellac had turned white and was half eaten away. 

Cousins sells three types of shellac: chunks, a clear stick and a dark brown stick. I have the first two.

- The chunks are no use for pallets and are intended for jewelry work holding etc. They contain a course filler of some sort. Impervious to naphtha.

- The clear stick works very well for pallets and general cementing purposes, but apparently dissolves in naphtha.

Has anyone tried the dark stick? I don't want to buy it just to find it's the same as the clear stick with a coloring agent added. 

What do you use to cement pallet stones (and where can I buy it)?

Cheers!

      Rob

pallet-fork-tool.jpg

Posted
21 minutes ago, oldhippy said:

I used to use shellac flakes. Can't you get those anymore. 

Easy to get at the hardware store in my country, I'm sure the UK isn't different.

Posted
On 5/5/2019 at 4:19 PM, jdm said:

PM if you want some from me.

Thanks for the offer jdm! I'll hunt around for flakes first, and PM you if I'm stuck.

I'm seeing waxed and dewaxed flakes for sale online. Not sure if it would make a difference for pallet bonding use.

 

Posted (edited)
On 5/6/2019 at 5:08 AM, teegee said:

I'm seeing waxed and dewaxed flakes for sale online. Not sure if it would make a difference for pallet bonding use.

 

I can't remember the rational but I remember reading it was waxed that you want for watch work.    The dewaxed is  common for woodworking finishing, the waxed seemed tougher to find.   My use was work holding where I don't think it matters, but I do recall reading about the two

very neat fixture btw, I have not seen something like that before

Edited by measuretwice
Posted
On 5/7/2019 at 8:09 PM, measuretwice said:

I can't remember the rational but I remember reading it was waxed that you want for watch work.    The dewaxed is  common for woodworking finishing, the waxed seemed tougher to find.   My use was work holding where I don't think it matters, but I do recall reading about the two

I've read about it. Shellac naturally contains 3 - 5% wax, that can be "dewaxed"  to improve adherence for further painting. The flakes are more pale. I don't know which one I have for woodworking but the results are beautiful and very easy to obtain. 

Posted

I have pale and dark flakes, the dark definitely work better; they melt at a more reasonable heat. Didn't know about the wax (I've never used it for anything but watch work).

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Just to update: I got about a tablespoon of shellac flakes from my BHI DLC assessor, and they work great. I just put a tiny chip of it on top of the pallet, heat it until it becomes semi-fluid and spread it to the right places with a sharpened oiler. Then heat a bit more so that it flows out nicely.

I think one tablespoon will fix a lifetime of pallets.. All the other shellacs I have I'll use for cementing workpieces etc.

Cheers!

     Rob

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Good to know that Oldhippy is fine.  I wish you a fast recovery, we, the noobs, miss you a lot.
    • Managed to clear the short, cleaned and oiled the movement. Now testing for 24 hours before I case it up. The movement is so small that it's loose in my smallest movement holder.
    • @oldhippy - wishing you all the very best of recoveries
    • Looks like the kind of message that occurs when there are routing issues between your local network and the remote server the site is living on - there can sometimes be 20 or 30 hops and when there are issues some of those hops become unavailable temporarily for some people but for others where there is a different path being used the issues are not manifest. Another explanation, and this used to happen to me a lot with my ISP, is using the ISP DNS servers on your device or router sometimes is not as robust as changing to a public service such as 1.1.1.1 or similar. I was having a terrible time watching Youtube a while back - changed the DNS on my Apple TV to use 1.1.1.1 and problem solved. However, these issues tend to resolve themselves fairly quickly.
    • As mentioned by the other members, it’s a dismantle job clean and inspect the solder joints. It’s an older generation using the paxolin pcb  not the glass fiber ones.
×
×
  • Create New...