Jump to content

Screw Blueing


Recommended Posts

Ive had some time to tinker with this technique and am happy to report some good results. If this has already been posted please forgive me but Im so excited I just had to share. Of course everyone knows how to blue their screws. I wanted to spice up a couple of builds and didnt want to spend 8 dollars a screw. So I spent a few hours testing and came up with this process. I take my screws and polish the heads on emory paper. Once thats done I place them in this brass jig which is basically an old bridge I had laying around. I tried to do this in the tweezers and for some reason it works ten times better in the jig. I think the brass helps distribute the heat more evenly. Also its imperative to direct the heat to the thread side of the screw. When I would blast the heads it never seemed to work right or at least in a predictable fashion. Its also key to make sure your heat, if youre using a pen torch like me is on a low setting and on the same axis as your screw. If you come in at an angle youll get an uneven finish. It takes a little trial and error. Be patient the farther you are away from your heat source the longer it will take but the deeper the blue you will get and the longer the colors will stay in phase. I used just regular canola oil to quench. Its key to get it in quench right away. In fact when you get real good at it youll actually be able to time the quench right when it hits blue. The color phases will be gold to purple to blue. Just as it starts to go from purple to blue id drop it in the quench. I found that the blue isnt as blue as the ones you can buy. Honestly to me the store bought ones are too blue and are a bit tacky. I dont think the store bought ones are blued by heating but rather by a chemical process. I have some gun blueing chemical on the way to try as well. I will report back with thos results. Hope this helps. 0128734186d017b89e105b98db112af5.jpg7263fd1c14cb9574ad618b4bfef0e6bc.jpgad13caaa855878c1d977ba8b15a932ce.jpg990e13ba71af9ec0b808c9716b4e921a.jpg42eddf7c8cfbd371c8a7a915fe34d17c.jpg6186acbe2c90d59224f4235695735a89.jpg

 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I love blued items on a clock and it's great to see that colour emerge when you reach the right temperature. 

If you don't mind me adding to the subject, I'd tried various ways of doing it, particularly for steel longcase clock hands, (including the selenium bluing compound) when someone suggested an electric hot air blower (the type used to strip paint).  That would still be heat bluing, but less fierce and more controllable than a flame. 

You need a lightish touch, but it now works fine for me every time.   

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have blued hands & screws and I found the key is absolute cleanliness. To absolutely make sure after rubbing down I use methylated spirits which works great for removing all grease. The slower it is blued and the more even the heat the better. 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Brass keeps the heat it doesn’t spread the heat outwards. Some people use brass filings.

 

This is the way I used to blue screws. Remove the entire burr with a needle file and use various grade of emery, I used sticks, sometimes cloth. Wash out the screws in my old watch cleaning machine. I had an old copper penny (copper is as good as brass when it comes to heat) that was bent at an angle and held in a mini vice which was held in my bench vice. Sprit lamp underneath the penny, when the penny got hot I would put the screws one by one on the penny and blue them, as soon as the screw was blued drop it in clean oil, I used 3 in 1 this will add a shine to the screws. When all done wash them in the cleaning machine again. All nice and blued (the same colour blue for them all) ready to use when assembling the movement.  

  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Brass keeps the heat it doesn’t spread the heat outwards. Some people use brass filings.
 
This is the way I used to blue screws. Remove the entire burr with a needle file and use various grade of emery, I used sticks, sometimes cloth. Wash out the screws in my old watch cleaning machine. I had an old copper penny (copper is as good as brass when it comes to heat) that was bent at an angle and held in a mini vice which was held in my bench vice. Sprit lamp underneath the penny, when the penny got hot I would put the screws one by one on the penny and blue them, as soon as the screw was blued drop it in clean oil, I used 3 in 1 this will add a shine to the screws. When all done wash them in the cleaning machine again. All nice and blued (the same colour blue for them all) ready to use when assembling the movement.  

Good tip. I have a lot of these old copper British pennies for coin magic.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 years later...

Hello Everyone,

I have just ordered a laboratory grade 2000W digital hot plate:

image.png.79568dc865ed44a9f8adddcc68a797ab.png


To experiment with achieving different shades of heat colors in ferrous materials (steel):

image.png.0b471a116e1851c6033086a212dfe201.png

Source:  

https://bit.ly/3QU5avA

The hotplate claims to be able to keep its working surface to a fairly tight temperature range.  We shall see...

This purchase is part of my effort to build practical, hands-on skills in Watchmaking, of which rehabilitating and polishing winding works wheels is one of my current threads:  "Is it wise to polish Winding Work Wheels?" at:

https://bit.ly/3QQyJOB

Once I get the hotplate in hand, I'll be running a bunch of experiments to see whether or not I can achieve anything resembling the above results.  They are SO beautiful, I doubt it...but I sure am going to try!

g.
-----

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

21 minutes ago, Gramham said:

I have just ordered a laboratory grade 2000W digital hot plate:

Very interesting. Will be nice to see if it's consistent.

This tickled me - "Try Again" 😄 ...

Screen Shot 2022-08-26 at 9.25.09 AM.png

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

27 minutes ago, Gramham said:

Hello Everyone,

I have just ordered a laboratory grade 2000W digital hot plate:

image.png.79568dc865ed44a9f8adddcc68a797ab.png


To experiment with achieving different shades of heat colors in ferrous materials (steel):

image.png.0b471a116e1851c6033086a212dfe201.png

Source:  

https://bit.ly/3QU5avA

The hotplate claims to be able to keep its working surface to a fairly tight temperature range.  We shall see...

This purchase is part of my effort to build practical, hands-on skills in Watchmaking, of which rehabilitating and polishing winding works wheels is one of my current threads:  "Is it wise to polish Winding Work Wheels?" at:

https://bit.ly/3QQyJOB

Once I get the hotplate in hand, I'll be running a bunch of experiments to see whether or not I can achieve anything resembling the above results.  They are SO beautiful, I doubt it...but I sure am going to try!

g.
-----

That's fascinating, please let don't forget to give us an update on your results!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • RichardHarris123: Hello and welcome from Leeds, England.  I have family all over Australia, went as £10 poms Thanks Richard. Hope you’re able to visit your family here and that they’ve all done well 🙂 My relatives arrived from England in the 1790s transported on the ‘Second & Third Fleets’—a story of timber sailing ships, of convicts and doing well in this huge Country of Australia. When I visited the UK in the 1980s, I was too young to comprehend the depth and breadth of its history…  Best wishes, Mike William Chapman, my 4th great Grandad’s charges, at age 23 read at the Old Bailey; sentenced to 7 years of transportation to Sydney.
    • The whole process and the progress are closely observed, it's hand-driven and very controlled. I can't see the "danger", unless you are watching the TV while doing it. As you could have read, and in this quote "wheel" is the balance-wheel.
    • Have you got the pallet fork installed in the movement when you see the train move when using the setting works? As nevenbekriev said, without the pallet fork to lock the train, the behaviour you are describing is normal. If this is happening with the pallet fork installed, you have a problem in the gear train, it should be immobile when the pallet fork is locking the escape wheel.  The fit of the circlip above the pinions on that wheel is crooked in your pictures, it should sit flat up against the upper pinion as in Marc’s picture.  Hope that helps, Mark
    • Hi I got a Jaeger LeCoultre K911 movement, where one of the stems was broken. Part no. Should be 401.  Im based in Europe and tried Cousins but its discontinued. They except to get stem in stock for cal. K916 but will that work? Or Is there a way out to join the ends?
    • The part was how it fell out of the movement - the train wheel bridge wasn’t screwed in.    I’ll probably dismantle the part, if I can, to work it out.    The train of wheels ran fine - it was only once the keyless works were installed I noticed the problem. 
×
×
  • Create New...