Jump to content

Which of these two tools is better?


Recommended Posts

1 hour ago, clockboy said:

The bottom set seems to be more comprehensive. As oldhippy says where are they being sold, be careful of cheap Chinese copies of the traditional watch repair tools.I would say (If genuine) the top one is a Favorite & the bottom one is a Seitz. 

Your eye sight is far better then mine. I can't see it it with my reading glasses on. :DIf thats the makes, both are very good. As clockboy said be careful of Chinese copies. The bottom set comes with a pivot gauge and looks like more  complete. With such tools many parts you will hardly or in fact never use.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a Favorite set almost exactly like the top one pictured it is of excellent quality as you would expect from a Swiss made tool but that set appears to be missing the collets for holding the reamers in the pin vice and two of the reamers are missing it would be very hard to track some collets down for it, the bottom set is a Seitz and is a far more extensive set I can see it comes with a pivot gauge these go for around a 100 pounds on ebay alone it also has a pivot straitening tool again another 100 pound tool, I would buy the bottom set given a choice providing it is complete and at a price you can justify because unless you are servicing and repairing a lot of watches they get very little use.

I bought my set complete and in excellent condition at a local auction for £40.00 which was a lucky find, it is a tool I have had very little need to use, its handy but in 4 years of having it I have only used it a few times, I would not be able to justify the £1,000 pounds these sets now cost new.

favorite_zpslpvgh8nd.thumb.jpg.88a9223327950c1b19386ff75fdc88df.jpg

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 hours ago, oldhippy said:

你的视力远远超过我的视力。戴上老花镜,我看不出来。 :d如果那是制作,两者都非常好。正如clockboy所说,要小心中文副本。底部配有一个枢轴规,看起来更完整。使用这些工具很多部件你很难或实际上从未使用过。

 

 

16 hours ago, clockboy said:

底部集合似乎更全面。由于oldhippy说他们在哪里被出售,所以要小心中国传统手表维修工具的便宜。我会说(如果是真的)最上面的一个是喜欢的,最底层的是Seitz。 

These two tools belong to second-hand tools. The tool color is only 7-8 layers. I don't know if it is worthwhile to spend 7,000 RMB to buy them. Which one would be better if compared to the Bergeon 30300 tool?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • It started well. Got the clip off, cleaned in B-dip, bit of grease, then ping 😫. Lost the clip trying to refit it.    I'll get a replacement from eBay. 
    • I used Google Lens on the pic and it suggested "motorcyle belt punch". And googling pics of that does show very similar tools. The end on mine is sharp, and does look suitable for punching holes in leather. I've no idea what belts on motorcyles would need piercing? The hole is about 1/4", so I cannot see a use in watchmaking. So, why have we both found one in a collection of watchmaking tools? 
    • You often see the term used on old watch part boxes.  Staffs for bracelet watches, timing washers for bracelet wstches etc.
    • The Boro has changed quite a lot over the last 20 years, and not for the better. I actually moved out of the town 15 years ago to a small village not far away. Thanks for the pdf! Looks a great read. I'll get it printed today and put it on my work bench!
    • Not having all the fancy equipment, this is a way I came up with. I never said it was the best, the most ideal or the safest way. Working on balances is always a delicate task whereby full concentration & common sense should prevail. I was well aware of the "dangers" / short comings involved, hence my "warnings", as quoted above. The balance wheel of the Omega was nice true, flat and one could clearly see how much gap there was left before the grinding wheel would touch the balance wheel. I stopped when the generously applied diamond paste started to touch the rim of the balance wheel, which turned out to be with a seat thickness left of 0.1mm. Tapping the remainder of the staff out went easy and flawless. My idea of penning this article was to show/share a way which, in my case, perfectly succeeded. If deemed to risky, or if the balance wheel is not true or has a wobble, other methods have to be followed.
×
×
  • Create New...