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Hi and greetings I have been given the instrument shown below. It was the property of a deceased watchmaker who like myself was also a radio ham. The donor believed it might be an item of radio equipment. The instrument says VEGAL made in England. No other marks or serial numbers. When plugged in the unit hums, I don't think it's mains hum as the frequency sounds too high, the loudness being controlled by the volume knowb. The switch is marked WATCHES, CLOCKS CLOCKS + 10 and T. FORK plus various numbers. The display ("Nixie tubes" ) displays numbers, could be frequency, time etc. The jack socket is simply marked INPUT I recall back in the 60's (yes I'm that old) an acquaintance had a Bulova accutron watch who's mechanism was controlled by a vibrating tuning fork, which could be heard humming if held near the ear. SO!! flash of inspiration. 1) The insrument was owned by a watchmaker and the switch positions obviously relate to timepieces 2) It has a setting marked T Fork 3) It hums Is it some sort of frequenct standard/calibration device/diagnostic aid for tuning fork watches ? Can anyone help Many thanks in advance Geoff

Found this showing assembly sequence https://www.thewatchforum.co.uk/index.php?/topic/115197-accutron-astronaut-variant-guide-and-reference-info/

I have something similar bought off eBay. Except for the Accutron service manuals, I've not really explored the contents of the rest of my disc. But at $15.... you can't really complain much.

I am in the process of building a custom tester based on the Accutron 600 test set. I choose the 600 because I have a pristine 700 and dont mind hacking the 600. I like the test set because of the huge 25ua meter! I am designing a variable battery source using a miniature digital volt meter mounted on a 3D printed module that plugs into the hole in the 600 test set (where the leads are stored). This is not a "does everything" tester either. It will let me test for low and high battery voltages, and also test pulse current. The picture shows the current state of the module--basically got the 3D print done. The electronics will be trivial.

Current thoughts: Power supply will be 170VDC tube rectified. The heater supply will be split off and rectified (solid state) for 5V and/or 12V depending on how things shake out. Tuning fork pickup/stimulator will be amplified via a dual triode. Preferably something readily available and in current production (though with current events...). Likely a 12AX7 of similar if I can make that work with the 170VDC (preferred by most nixie tubes). I don't know that I'll be able to handle the counter logic work and be tunable without a microcontroller... I have a handful of Arduinos, and another similar microcontroller board or two, so that should be easy. I had a neat idea to control the nixies from the microcontroller: an array of reed relays! They'll click quietly, but for different reasons than your typical clock. Additionally, there will be more information in the ticking, as there will be extra ticks every 10 seconds, minute, ten minutes, etc. It would take a total of 40-something relays (one for each number that is used, plus a few for some neon lamps) if I want to keep it simple. I might be able to figure out a way to multiplex them, but I'm not sure it really gives me any benefits. Enclosing the whole thing will bump up the temp and keep it stable to keep the tuning fork thermally stable. The point of the microcontroller counter is to be able to reduce the frequency being counted to account for this AND any manufacturing variances. Both of these factors will be unknown until it's done and in service, so the ability to control it on the fly is necessary for any accuracy. I'm hoping to be able to figure out how to suspend the tuning fork, pickup, and stimulator magnetically. I know it can be done actively, but I'm not sure it can't be done passively. If it can't be done passively, I'll use a series of springs or something. Total mechanical isolation, so the only way the hum can get out is through the air. Similarly/convesely, if I want the ticking relays to be audible, I'll need to mount them/that assembly (however it works out) either to a soundboard of sorts, or I might be able to get away with just mounting them to the side of the case somehow. So... The big question is accuracy... I'm pretty sure I'll be able to get the accuracy to within half a Hz of whatever frequency the tuning fork oscillates at. 440Hz is sort of the standard tuning fork frequency, but higher frequencies obviously decrease the potential error rate. It needs to be big enough to fit the look I'm going for (I don't know exactly how it's going to work proportionally), and it needs to be magnetic (apparently, a lot of tuning forks are made of aluminum these days). Assuming 400Hz (decreasing the 440Hz for temperature and to make a round number) and spherical chickens in a vacuum, I should be able to just barely edge out an Accutron at +/-1 minute per month. I'll have a higher frequency, more stable temperature, and no motion to account for. If it is close enough that it's not meaningfully out (~+/-5 minutes) over the course of 6 months, I'll be thrilled. I'm 99% sure this is my next big project. I've got another similar project currently in the works that I need to finish to make room though, and there will be some learning curve to this. I intend to prototype a subsystem at a time, probably starting with the tuning fork pickup/stimulator. I'll copy an existing transistor based circuit to start. It's a semi-known quantity, and I'll use it as a baseline.

https://hackaday.com/2021/02/13/tuning-fork-keeps-this-throwback-digital-clock-ticking/ https://www.secretbatcave.co.uk/projects/electromechanical-clock/ I stumbled on these in one of my newsfeeds the other day. Macro scale Accutron clock project. A third clock project popped up at the same time, but it's not exactly a time based clock. I guess these are cool all of a sudden maybe? Meanwhile, back at the lab, I've been learning about analog electronics. Building a 100% analog phono preamp on the side of my desk not occupied by work related detritus (watchmaking, unfortunately, commands nearly entirety of my desk surface, so it's been playing 3rd fiddle at best lately). Anyway, digging into the first one got me thinking. He mentions at the end of the video that accuracy varies according to ambient temperature, and there's some conversation in the comments about ways of compensating for that. My knee jerk reaction to an image of the final project was that the 7 segment displays could be replaced with nixies. The schematic for the tuning fork regulator part of the clock could easily be done with a simple and readily available dual triode. I'm not sure about the rest of the circuit yet, but those are bridges that can be crossed. The interesting thought involved the intersection of the analog electronics, the heat they produce, and the regulation of the tuning fork. The heating elements in the tubes put off a lot of heat. Especially if the entire thing were to be executed in analog circuitry (rectification, amplification, display, and I haven't figured out the totalizing/counting aspect of it yet). If all of that could be crammed under a double walled glass bell, there'd be some serious heat in there. Possibly enough to cause problems. BUT I think it might be self regulating.... As the heating coils get hotter, resistance drops. If the ambient temperature is higher, they consume less power, yadda, yadda, and I think you'd end up with a pretty stable, albeit high, temperature to keep the fork humming along at a pretty steady rate. That rate would NOT be the rate stamped into the side of the fork though, so there'd need to be some means of tuning that regulation... Not really sure about that yet. Not sure I'm going to do this yet. It's a pretty tall leap to get from basic AC rectification and signal amplification to a totalizer circuit of some sort, but I haven't had time to do anything more than read that article/watch the video. I recall having seen another guy on youtube (handle has to do with rabbits in Japanese or something) that might have done something along the lines of a counter/timer. Might be worth looking into that. Videos require less eye strain and concentration than reading, and my toddler likes videos on daddy's computer, meaning I stand a chance at being able to do such a thing. Anyway. Thought I'd drop this here to see what the horological hive mind thinks on the subject.

That's terrible.. I believe a similar thing once happened to my grandad's Zenith.. and my grandma's Accutron gained a quartz movement at some point.. eventually I'm hoping to replace the dial / install another Accutron. It's frustrating to see these things happen - good luck in getting this sorted for your friend.

These are the watches I acquired from a local thrift shop, I am trying to figure out what exactly they are. I will try and give as much detail as I can. There is a Seikomatic-p, a Bulova accutron, a eternomatic, a Parker, 4 different Hamilton's, a westclox pocket watch, and a Virtus twin pocket watch. Any help is appreciated,

Bought a lot for 16.00, looks to have a vintage bulova, a small accutron and one that looks to be a vintage mido multifort with a rectangle case. Should be here Thursday, can't wait.

If you are really looking for a challenge, try an Accutron 214. You already have all the necessary tools for the job. I know you'll eventually succumb to it.

I used to use the technique described above by Nucejoe. It was also the technique taught to me by my mentor. But in recent years, I switched to using a technique which I learnt from YouTube. Basically, you put all the wheels into the holes of the bottom plate, stand them as upright as possible, then hover the upper plate over the wheels, trying to align the holes to the pivot and drop it on. There is a chance that you'll get a "hole-in-one" and all the pivots would go home into their respective holes. Failing which, you use the back end of your tweezer and tap lightly on the movement holder while observing the upper plate. The tapping will jar the wheels and when they are all aligned you'll be able to see the upper plate drop home. Sound ridiculously ludicrous, right? But I've been using this technique for the past 2 years, with only an occasional stubborn movement which will require the poke and pray method. And for Accutron movements, mastering this technique is essential to avoid damaging the delicate index wheel. Oh yes! May I add that with this method, I can get most top plates on in under 30 seconds.

Looks like you've got your hands full. But Accutrons are really interesting. They are the only watches with true burnt coils, unlike quartz watches. Quartz coils normally break when someone slips with a screwdriver and scratch the surface. Accutrons have open coils with absolutely no visible physical damage. If one can repair the burnt coils, Accutron owners will beat a path to his front door.

Why not? I'm sure you'll love them. I'm stuck on one Accutron 214 at the moment. It keeps good time in all positions, except "12 o'clock high" position.

Just checked ebay for sold Accutron 214 bowtie watches. Most sold for $85 to $185 and one sold for $300. I searched more accutron repair sites and $300 is typical, just for a cleaning and lube. If it needs any parts like coils, cost could easily be $500 or more and that doesn't include any cosmetic work. I'm going to sell is as non-working.

I bought a Accutron 600 tester. Now I need to learn how to use it.

Measuring the current consumption of a watch can be difficult and usually involves expensive equipment. The le arsi tester is an economical way of accomplishing this. It is able to provide a variable power supply and by the sound indicator and LEDs, give an indication of the current consumption. I was going to buy a le arsi tester but then I discovered that the Bulova Accutron tester that I already owned could do that job too. Putting an appropriate battery into the battery test clip would also give the correct voltage to power the watch under test. The deflection of the meter will show the current consumption. In this way, the static and dynamic current can be measured. Accutron testers do come up for sale on ebay occasionally. Sometimes for less than a le arsi tester.

https://www.ebay.com.sg/itm/VINTAGE-ACCUTRON-MODEL-700-WRIST-WATCH-REPAIR-TEST-TOOL-SERVICE-KIT-/384557962006?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m2548.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0 If you place a battery in the test clip, it will provide power at the test leads to power up the watch under test. The meter gives a reading of 25 microamps FSD. I guess you could use an analog multimeter on the 50 microamp range but then the needle would hardly move.

Go download a copy of the manual. You can find it on the internet. Also, read up on the theory of how a tuning fork watch works and how to index the watch correctly. There are some videos on YouTube on servicing tuning fork watches too. I remember I read everything I could find on the internet on the subject and watched every video on servicing tuning fork watches too. Then I put in on the back burner and let it stew for a few months. A tuning fork watch is totally different from mechanical and quartz watches, although background experience on working on other components like keyless works, motion works and calendar works would be a great help. A microscope of at least 20X magnification is essential. If you have an Accutron model 700 test meter, you won't need a variable power supply. But a normal multimeter isn't going to work. As for the watch that is humming, if the hands are not moving, it's better to remove the battery before the index wheel gets damaged. I'm no expert on Accutrons, but I'm here to help if you need it. Good luck.

Be very careful with the index and pawl fingers. And don't hold the index wheel anywhere except by the arbor. Do you have an Accutron test meter?

I work on no end of both. And I keep rediscovering that the more one knows about something, the more one can appreciate it. I specialize in antiques, and love to work on them. There are many old mechanicals which can be made very accurate, and I respect that. But as others have mentioned, for me it is also about the artistry. I adore the ways that the watchmakers of the Victorian and Edwardian eras used to decorate the movements. All the brushing on the nickel surface, the damaskeening, the engine turning, the fancy blackletter script of the maker's name, and so on. And just the overall pride in craftsmanship that is so evident throughout many of them. But I've also worked on really nice quartz movements. The more I learn about the Accutron tuning fork regulated watches, the more I appreciate that level of precision. And the Seiko kinetics are very impressive too, a sort of hybrid automatic-quartz with the oscillator charging the battery/capacitor. I confess, I've learned to like working on those too. I don't, however, get much thrill working on a run-of-the-mill, standard, battery-operated SMQ. But I respect what they can do. It's hard not to. So yes, for me, I like both. But certainly in different ways. Truthfully, the passion really comes out when I'm working on an old pocket watch.

Which model is it? When was it last serviced? Accutrons are backwards of mechanical watches, in that you have the power source turning the escape wheel, which then powers the train up through the hands. In a mechanical watch there is an increase in speed and a reduction of torque from each gearing to the next, so there is almost no power on the escape wheel. In an Accutron the tiny power and movement of each vibration of the tuning fork is increased by 7 or 8 fold at each gear set, so that at the hour and minute hands there is tremendous power. The instantaneous date system on a 218 model will shake your wrist! And it would stop or hinder a regular mechanical watch. The upside is a well adjusted Accutron is very reliable and runs for years and years, the downside is that they will run long after the lubrication had dried and grind the pivots to dust. I suspect the friction between the driving wheel and canon pinion has become weak, and the canon pinion and hour wheel are sticky, so the watch runs but doesn't move the hands. As the seconds pinion is before this intersection it continues to move, and the hand setting works since that is another gearing that drives the canon pinion directly. As it does run, it should just need a service. But the longer it runs in this state the more potential damage that can be done.

There are many pulse testers available online. Get one that can check battery voltage, do line release and test for a motor pulse. Some of the newer ones can even test the timing accuracy. To test the coil, all you need is a multimeter set to resistance testing mode. But to test the current consumption of the circuit, I'm afraid there is no easy way. I use a Bulova Accutron test meter which was designed to test tuning fork watches but can be used to give a rough idea of the consumption current. A proper quartz watch testing machine, like those made by Witschi, is not something that a hobbyist would buy. My mentor explained to me why a professional watchmaker might not want to buy a Witschi quartz tester. If you test a watch that your customer brings in and pronounce it defective and then the customer brings it to another watchmaker who just replaces the battery and charges for it, the customer would think you are incompetent. Then when the battery fails after 6 months, he would just replace the battery again and tell you if it dies in six months again, you'll need to service the watch or buy a new one.

Today I'm wearing my Accutron Hummer. It is a 1974 218D. This is technically a resto-mod as I sourced the movement, case, dial and hands separately though they are all period correct. The strap is a super comfy aftermarket leather one with a butterfly clasp. It's a bit finicky to keep consistantly running. It definitely needs a proper service by an experienced Accutron person. It will randomly stop humming and it takes several taps on the side of the case to get it started again. I have an Omega Hummer on layaway that I should have in my possession by December, I'll be sure to share that too.

Ha! Been wondering what this was for...Now I know. Been sitting in the drawer beckoning the inquisitive mind. After reviewing the Accutron Test setup documents...voila...

I have an Accutron 700 meter. What puck are you referring to?