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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/02/19 in all areas

  1. This just came out and I thought I'd share it with you guys. I've written lot of articles for Home Shop Machinist magazine over the years and this is a four part how- to-build-it series starting this month. The tool is an aid toward aligning machine tool ways when you scrape them, its my design but is patterned after a commercial one unavailable now for decades (It think mine has a number of improvements) . Fairly esoteric, but it generates a good bit of interest as scraping is a very cool thing in that with fairly simple hand tools you can take best of breed machine tools and restore the bearing surfaces to their original accuracy or better. Tenths of thou territory (microns for you guys across the pond ). Probably not many here into machining, but its my main hobby and what got me interested in clocks and watches. Cheers
    2 points
  2. Full strip down and ultrasonic clean to start with. Then a careful thorough clean and inspection. The pivot connected to the hair spring wasn’t bad at all. The cups that it sits in was gunked up so carefully dug the gunk out cleaned and the pivot ends polished. I haven’t yet got a lathe so hand polishing with emery paper. Nice and bright silver. Fairly snug in the pivot holes but enough space to allow a little movement. The hair spring gave a little bit of a problem but soon resolved it. The mainspring was fun. Not as powerful as the Westminster Smith but still enough to give a nasty nip. My spring winder tool wouldn’t fit so I had to get inventive and take things slowly with a pair of pliers. Did it after a while. I’d decided I’d use the spring holder rings which went well. Same fun and games putting it back together
    1 point
  3. Is it in beat? From your second post it sounds like it might just be way out of beat in which case adjusting the banking won't help. Try removing the pallet fork so that you can sight along along a line which goes through the escape wheel, pallet fork, and balance pivots. The impulse jewel should be on that line. If it's not then the movement will be out of beat, and if it's too far out it won't run.
    1 point
  4. So the basic answer is no for your question. As clockboy already answered you will have to take the movement out Then disassemble the entire front of the watch to figure out what the problem may be. Getting parts Because the age of the watch is difficult. Then omega was very clever with this watch which means under the dial isn't going to resemble anything you've ever seen before. Technical documentation is also interesting for this watch there's a whole series of 134x where basically it's just the parts list for the difference then the only thing resembling the service manual is a 1342. Where you notice there is very little in the way of pictures of how everything goes together. omega 1342_complet_4216.pdf omega 442_1345_complet_2308.pdf
    1 point
  5. You will need access to the keyless side to see what is wrong. This requires the movement to be removed from the case and then the hands & dial to be removed.
    1 point
  6. I never liked one-dip. I always used Ronsonol lighter fluid. It doesn’t harm anything in a watch and it is shellac friendly.
    1 point
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