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That’s pretty cool. Ive never worked on such a small lathe before. It seems to me a lot of the techniques would be quite different from conventional machining. The toolmaker who taught me had a “peck drill” arrangement for the tailstock for small holes. The Morse taper chuck would grab this tool, which was essentially a pin vice. He would bring the tailstock in, and slide the micro chuck in and out on a shaft. This way you could “feel” the pressure. He was drilling some 0.004” diameter holes for an atomizer I had designed... the drills were solid carbide (drilling 316 stainless) and he got a “sliver” which was one of the bits broken under his skin. It literally looked like a sliver but hurt a lot more!

When the clock escapes watch and see how far the balls carry on. It needs to be the same when the balls rotate back. It needs to escape the same amount in both directions for the clock to be in beat. This should help https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e6vZBxaK7Bs

I am wondering if maybe these were supposed to be in a material house versus watchmaker shop. For those of us that were lucky enough to experience going to a physical material house a lot of their reference material was on cards.

rogart63 It's basically an eta 2390 slightly modified

That is the screws that holds movement in the case. You could take two similar screws from an other movement. That 688 was made by ETA so you think a screw from a ETA would work. Looks about the same as ETA 1080 .

They had clocks in railway signal boxes? I used to work for the railway in Western Australia in the comms section in all the archival books and diagrams I had access to I never saw a clock in a signalbox. Other than a bent crutch which is not really a problem I don't know what is wrong I do not know Kay & Co LTD so I looked them up to find out they were primarily a mail order company but did indeed win a contract to supply GWR clocks. http://91.197.228.188/~kaysh/2017/03/16/kays-watches-and-clocks/

on that size, and with the drawbar, the tailstock quill should be for the same collets as the headstock. A lathe with such a tailstock seems a less common and often expensive feature most watchmakers lathe don't have, so well done JD. I have 10 and 12mm lathes with this feature but my watchmakers lathes don't so its old school drilling - make a centre with a graver and then drill with a hand held pinvise.

Finally found a good staking set!! I've been looking for one since I started watch repairing a few months back. But most I saw had either just been sold, missing parts, or in bad condition. But eureka! I got one that fits the bill (including cannon pinion resizers, and a micrometer for jewel replacement), and wasn't going to let it pass up, or let one of you buggers snag it before me this time. ;) I highly recommend to be patience when looking for a staking set, as good ones do come up from time to time. Here's the pics ... cause we all love da pics: