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Hi Everyone! Have been into watches for a while but always been to nervous to open up the back. However, servicing and minor repairs always seem to be at least £100's so it got me thinking that why i don't i just learn to do these things myself? I've always been good at fixing cars, bikes and anything mechanical so watch movements should be a breeze.... right? I'm eagerly awaiting my order of all the basics I've gone for a mix of mid range and premium tools which i'm hoping will get me off to a good start. and I brought a couple of watches off ebay with identical Swiss movements which i'm going to spend a month or so taking apart and putting back together - i'm quite a big guy so I think i need all the practice I can get just manipulating all these tiny parts! Will also be looking to start a course hopefully this year on a specific movement - hopefully an ETA 6497 - very conscious I normally rush into things so i'm trying to take this slow. Looking forwards to getting involved on the forums and learning a new craft!

An interesting and complex read - which is why it has taken me so long to respond! The whole Swatch thing is about greed, self-interest and protectionism. Ultimately it will screw itself into the ground while Japanese and Chinese manufacturers will continue to be successful. Just my two-pennorth...

I just completed cutting my first balance staff on a lathe. All went well on the balance/hairspring side, including undercutting and leaving enough material to make the rivet. On the roller table side however, i cut a smidgen too much. Is there any way to tighten the roller table on or di i need to cut a new staff? I thought shellac on the post would harden and keep the table on. I still need to jacott the pivots, so am i waisting my time? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I said chrono but it is not. Have it opened again and take a good picture to identify the movement, which you can order yourself. Then you can find a local honest battery change shop to install it.

you could save even more money with used motor oil Before moving away from the intended horology oils, I'd think one would want to really understand the different additives. While its true sulfur in EP style oils, gear oil for example, is especially bad for yellow metals (brass, bronze), picking a low sulfur motor oil doesn't exactly put you in the clear. I believe all motor oils,synthetic or otherwise have either ZDDP or ZDTP. Even hydraulic fluid, which is a quite pure, mostly additive free mineral oil has ZDDP. I believe ZDDP/ZDTP is not good for yellow metals. There are also long lists of other additives which may or may not have an effect. I also wonder at using multi grade oils? The temperature in a clock is only ever going to be at the first viscosity listed. If you wanted to use industrial oils, you could search and read some of discussions on what to use with worm wheels, which are very often made of bronze. Any oil a credible source recommends for use with a bronze worm wheel should work for a clock, assuming you can match viscosity. End of the day though, why not just use the correct oil? Its a complicated subject and short of getting a degree in hydrocarbon chemistry, fraught with downside for a little bit of upside. If anything, it should be us amateurs, who'll use so little of the stuff, that don't mind the price difference.

Jewels have a chamfer on the leading edge so they self centre as you fit them, so only go in one way. See pictures and more info here http://ihc185.infopop.cc/helphand/pdf/seitz.pdf

I have the two sets of videos on using a lathe and I have the bible book on lathes "modern watchmakers lathe and how to use it" as well as practical watch repair and many other books. I have watched and read it all so my brain has the knowledge. Then I practiced for a week (4 hours or so) on brass stock. I then cot a stem using blue steel. And then I tackled the balance staff; taking my time and measuring and fitting as I built the part. I have learned about taking it slow as I over cut the roller table shaft a bit....good lesson. Next staff will be a lot better. Sent from my GT-N5110 using Tapatalk

There is a book Donald DeCarle: Practical watch adjusting. Stepy-by-step checks to make sure everything is ok which is adding to the rates. These are not that bad results. But from a swiss movement we can get some more. Good amolitudes suggesting You can skip the mainspring and gear train part As JDM said, Du/DD deviance suggesting to much endshake. Jeweling tool needed here adjusting the whole setting depth. Hairspring should be tinkered to proper vertical rates. Or You just adjust it to Your average hand (left or right, top or bottom on the wrist) positions. And what about the beat rate and the sound pattern? All ok? No other issue?

Ok here is what i did. I used a crown with a long pipe. I put it in my lathe and got rid of all but the very top edge so you can grip it with your nails an pull the button out. Ta Da:) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Regarding oils for clocks... http://www.kensclockclinic.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/Clock-Oils.pdf A little history and types of oils used. I've been using Mobil 1 Synthetic 0W-40 and 10W-60 a couple of years now with good results. Cheap too!