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The more information the better. Start with the one you have info on. While most parts make some sense when assembling, there are plenty that are puzzling. I recommend taking pics as you go to help yourself put it back together after the wash. Yes, power must be definitively off when you remove the pallet fork or you could damage the gear badly. If the watch isn't working then it's helpful to keep power up until that point so that you can assess where the problem may be. Use our peg wood stick or plexi to love the fork back and forth while you look for issues. Don't forget to release the power from that point on or you'll break a pivot or teeth or something. Good luck. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Actually on the 7S26 that's technically not completely true. Ishima is right, only the second hand need to be removed in order to access the keyless, and the entire calendar can be safely left in place As Rogart has mentioned, it seems like the setting spring (black circle above) has dislodged. I recommend the OP to NOT try to repair this by himself without having first acquired all the correct tools, lubricants, and have practiced on other mov.t about which he doesn't care at all. Even if a Seiko movement is very cheap to replace, it would be a pity to further damage it.

Yup, and that's a great and necessary early step in learning. (assuming these are scrap movements you're not worried about damaging, it sounds like it) Release mainspring power, then remove canon pinion (check advice on that) , and then go from there. It's worthwhile if you're feeling daunted and out of your depth trying to strip it down fully first time through to do sort of 'false starts' strip down one section and reassemble, then strip down again and do the next section, to build familiarity and confidence.

Actually I recommend to repair, not replace this one, inspecting and testing the setting lever to check that's its pin, or the valleys on spring aren't damaged so to make it go off again. However I'm perfectly aware that in the Western world, any watch repairer (assuming you can find a good one), will ask about the value of the watch itself for the work. For that I can' offer a solution except DIY after proper self-education.

So this is the problem. The hole in the mainplate is not where it should be. It is shifted towards the pallet fork and from the second wheel. The problem here is not just stated in the OP, but the ascape wheel is not upright and the gear teeth are also far, maybe just engaging. The solution is not that easy. You have to measure the proper hole distance from the pallet fork AND from the second wheel WITH a depthing tool. After that mount the mainplate on the lathe and drill a new hole. You can add a jewel or bushing thereafter. Or just use the donor mainplate

The BHI course is great. You will need a mentor to help you with your record of repairs. If I were you I would work with your mentor for free. Work hard. Study hard. Read around the subject. Immerse yourself in all things Horological.Practice. Practice. Practice. Make mistakes then practice again. Don’t do any commercial work for at least a year. Talk to watchmakers. Visit workshops. You will then gain sufficient experience to be able to start working on watches commercially. The BHI course teaches you precision and attention to detail. However, nothing beats hands on experience. You don’t get anything for free. There are no shortcuts to success. If you want to be a successful at your profession you have to put the hours in. I’m sure(hopefully) others will agree!! Ps Enjoy what you do! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sounds like you have the right of it, Rogart, only isn't all that keyless work accessed from the top side on these or am I missing something?

I was waiting for the cleaning cycle to finish and I came across this board. Some of the posters are pretty serious and that is a pleasant thing to see. I have been updating my website to highlight pages that may be of interest to the membership http://historictimekeepers.com/Notes for Watchmakers.htm http://historictimekeepers.com/Microscopes.htm http://historictimekeepers.com/measurement_in_watchmaking.htm I am trying to leave a trail of bread crumbs so that younger watchmakers do not have to learn the hard way like I did. I do need to put together a book list (Jendritski, Perkins, Whitney, Wild, Gazeley, the Argus Shop series, Sherline book, etc) that gets people away from relying on bad information or writers who leave Easter Eggs for the reader to figure out. If people have a topic they would like me to add, let me know. My goal is to fill the space of how things are done which tends to be glossed over. For example, using an adjustable hotplate instead of an alcohol lamp for bluing and shellacking, etc. Things I have found that make life easier and increase the probability of success. Regards, Dewey

Rafal, That is a good point. I think this covers two topics: refinishing steel in the modern age (Spoiler alert: 3M self adhesive Imperial Diamond sheets) ; and how I install regulators and cap jewels on balances with screwed cap jewels. I printed your email as a reminder. Easy enough to do; just gotta find a couple hours. But I will. I think I start breaking Notes for Yong watchmakers into subsections for these kinds of topics. First I gotta finish on the Sherline and dead center turns though. A warning to all; I take the Swiss a[approach, if the fit and finish and results are correct, the piece does not care if you did it on a WW or a turns or even with a file. There are lots of ways to skin that cat. I can only talk about what I have learned to produce clean, precise results. I hope you find and share others as you go along. Regards, Dewey

Look for them to simply be watches that aren’t running, usually from lack of service but any other reason is possible. Technically there is no such thing as overwound. What happens is a watch quits running and everyone who picks it up tries to wind it, and eventually it is wound as tight as it can be. Then later someone picks it up and thinks , oh, it’s overwound and that wasn’t the case. Make sense? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

There must be something that doesn't sit right in the keyless work. There is usually no problem with the 7s26 movements when it comes to that . Could have jumped off here at the black ring or the arm has slide over the clutch wheel (red ring) Which could happen if you pull the stem to fast out. But you need to take the dial of to find out

Intersting Vid indeed. What wonderful tools they have and these students are receiving the very best training. (if only I was younger!!)

Google translates now works from pictures too. Give it a shot (pun intended).