Using a replacement wheel was good advice. I had one left over from a year ago when I last attempted to repair this watch. When I swapped in that wheel, the gear train ran smoothly.
BUT...when I then replaced the pallet, the watch would not run (as I gently wagged the pallet as the roller jewel would). I could not see a definite defect on the pallet stones, but when I replaced that pallet, the watch worked. In a few days I'll be able to post a photo of the presumably bad pallet to get your assessment. I notice that there is more shellac at the base of the exit stone than the entrance one. I wonder if that pushed the jewel too deep into the escape wheel.
So now the remaining task is to replace the balance. I see that the impulse jewel is missing from its roller table. <sigh>. (Remember what I said about COMPLETE diagnoses?). I have a replacement roller table with jewel. I've never done this before, but I've read about it. I'm going to carefully use my staking tool to remove the old one (without the impulse jewel) and then replace it.
I do have a question, however. It seems that the balance wheel and arbor should not have the hairspring attached during this process. To remove the collet, it seems safer to first remove the stud from the balance wheel cock. I'm hesitant to introduce more opportunities for error, but this seems necessary. Am I right in this regard?
I'm eager to repair this watch because it was my late (and dearly loved) father-in-law's, and it will become an heirloom for one of my sons.
Bob12, the link you posted is impressive, but beyond my current tools, and more importantly, beyond my current skill.
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