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Thought I would give it a test run today. The height of the bench is perfect for me - no more bent back, this is really good. Unfortunately it feels very strange not working on a bergeon work mat, in fact it feels like i'm doing something naughty! New one on order :) Here's a couple more pics: I could prolly increase the light in the room by another 20% when I clean all the dust off the windows :D

This was the box i bought . 250 screws . http://www.ebay.com/itm/Screws-for-vintage-mechanical-and-quartz-watches-x250-parts-repairs-watchmakers-/320935255238?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item4ab93b5cc6 I wonder how make them .They really are watch screws . Coming from old movements .

Hi Tim, I don't know what the Meobius equivalents are for the Seiko oils but what you've got will certainly work. I would use the 8300 on the main spring (very thin wipe over the spring before reinstalling into the barrel), the keyless works, and the canon pinion, 9104 (or HP1300) on the low speed high torque pivots like the barrel arbor pivots and centre wheel, 9010 on the higher speed lower torque pivots (basically everything else but don't oil the pallet fork pivots), and the 9415 on the pallet stones. You should also use a braking grease (something like 8213) on the barrel walls before installing the main spring, other than that you should be good to go. Other opinions will differ. The 7009, like many of the Seiko calibres found in the 5's doesn't have manual winding, it is an auto only but the winding efficiency is very good and it shouldn't take too much movement to get it running. Also the quick set for the day I believe is by pushing the crown in, it advances 1 day for each push. I'm sure that someone will correct me if I am wrong.

Happy anniversary Geo. I would like to echo the sentiments already expressed about this forum too. I have followed many horological forums on the web over the last 8 or 10 years and they all seem to be very similar in feel. A bit exclusive, slightly demeaning of anyone who is not an "expert", and a bit snobby. WRT on the other hand is different and stands out as an arena for the genuine and totally unpretentious exchange of ideas, where anyone can get assistance and information on just about any aspect of horology without being judged. My congratulations and thanks obviously go to Mark for setting up and presiding over this place, but I would also like to express my appreciation to all of the forum members for their open mindedness and generosity of spirit. May it long continue.

Just got this yesterday. It's the forth micro rotor I have, all different. But this one may be a bad omen. Hamilton cal. 666 movement :crazysmile:

Thank you very much. I'm learning lots! now to get it back together...

Tack Rogart!

Congratulations from me as well, your feelings are fully reciprocatedby all who have come into your company. May the best ye hae ivver seen be the warst ye'll ivver see. May the moose ne'er lea' yer girnal wi a tear-drap in its ee. May ye aye keep hail an hertie till ye'r auld eneuch tae dee. May ye aye juist be sae happie as A wuss ye aye tae be. Sláinte Vic

Marc is correct. Pushing the crown in from its normal position advances the day wheel.

Most Seiko auto's until recently were just that - auto's, no way to hand wind. Just give it a gentle side to side shake for a short while and its good to go. The day will need to be set by turning the hands between 10 pm & 2 am until the day is selected.

I use this oils to Seiko. Mobius A = 9010, S-4 = D5 or HP1300, S-6 = 9501 or a other stem grease Morten

Diamondslayer, I have the Witschi 1000 and like it very much. That model is labeled under many different brand names and is very popular so you can't go wrong. Enjoy.

No Clockboy - it does not go there. Actually looking closely at it, it really looks like part of one of the hands. Either one of the sub dial hands or the chronograph seconds hand. Check them.

:D It's such a precise piece to play - no mucking about with improvisation and stuff like that - so that full concentration is essential. While I'm staring gormlessly into space with a bored expression, I'm actually concentrating closely on the organ track and drum breaks so that I play exactly the right bit at the right time. When you're doing this live with other musicians - as I used to - there are all sorts of visual cues and nods to indicate what goes where, so it's much easier live - and I can risk a smile or two. All I have to guide me visually in a solo recording is a set of .WAV files tracking across the screen! As many of us know, we musos must suffer for our art...

Here's a picture without the balance. The end of the pallet fork can be moved up and down a whole lot. I took the pallet fork off a couple of times today to try and see where the issue again is. After prodding around with a sharpened piece of pegwood to see if anything was loose, I prodded the lower jewel gently and it flipped over in it's hole! So I guess I have found my problem, although I don't think I can fix it as of now. I'm guessing the hole in the plate has somehow loosened up over time and thus I'd need a new jewel with a slightly bigger OD and have to oversize the hole in the plate? I'll probably keep this movement around until I gather enough tools/skills to get it repaired properly. Thanks for all the help guys, I was so stuck for these couple of days. Although I couldn't fix it this time round, it's a relief that I found out why the pallet was loose.

Hi Stu, I have just had a look at the set up in my Buren 1281 and Hamilton 92 and they both show the same layout (not really surprising), below is 1281. You are correct that the yellow wheel goes onto the purple post to mesh with the stem clutch. However, it's the red wheel that goes onto the green post. This is a little awkward as the intermediate wheel at 10 o'clock (in my pic) is sprung loaded to push against the red wheel so this needs to be pushed away slightly for the red wheel to go on properly. It is the blue wheel that stacks on top of the yellow wheel, however, not only should it not be split, but it should be riveted securely to the yellow wheel and should not turn independently. The yellow and blue wheels should be a solid assembly that turns as a unit, which is how rotation is transferred through the system. I suspect that the split in the blue wheel has allowed it to ride over the rivet on the yellow wheel to become a separate entity. I think you need a new part. Marc.

No, epoxy won't work for two reasons. One, stress to force it on would break bond and two, there is some rust/tarnish in crack that could never be cleaned for a good bond which is moot anyway.

Here is some more:) Morten

Thanks, Gotwatch. I sent an email inquiring about a replacement part and then I zip tied a magnet to the cat's leg and let him roam around the house for an hour. Somewhere in the carpet he picked up the barrel arbor from the 1746 movement. Actually I got down on my hands and knees with a flashlight and magnet and was able to find it. I did consider the cat idea though.

I use a pill box with more compartments than the typical 7-day case. I move to the next compartment when I need to distinguish bridges and screws. I also track the contents by their descriptions. I usually don't clean the screws so when I clean the major parts together, I know where to put them back in the box. The pill box also helps in remembering the sequence of assembly/disassembly.