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Well, first things first: in order to answer any of those questions, we will need to know more. May we please have pictures of the movement - back side and dial side - in the highest resolution you can offer? And can you tell us anything you already know about it, such as maker, year, etc.? Many of us have sources for certain makes and certain years, and some have used our lathes and tools to fabricate the parts we cannot get. But we need more data first. Then we will see what we can do. That, and we like to ogle at watch movements.

That is a desirable 'pie-pan' Constellation from the 60s and may command a nice sum, you can compare for similar ones for sale on chrono24.com entering the reference number inside the caseback. Also, there are specialized forums with sale listings and related discussion.

I think you mean escape wheel, not balance. It is normal for beginners to have major trouble fitting all pivots under the main bridge, especially the escape wheel. You can try fitting one wheel at the time to identify which one seizes. If you have fully tightened the bridge with a pivot out, it may have bent, and all bets are off.

OK new one needed. I'm trying to find one, but no success yet. I did notice when I first obtained the watch, the back was off, the escapement wheel did not move. The balance wheel only partially rotated a few times. I don't think it was me that damaged the escapement However, that's not the point. I believe in the adage, don't fix the blame, fix the problem. Ross

Generally when I post about a watch part, I get out my exploded view to make sure I call out the parts correctly. I hate being spanked

Hi Ross LWS is correct the top pivot has broken off , probably due to the bridge being screwed down on it, hence re method of lightly fitting the bridge and continualy checking the fitting new wheel required.

This is an Elgin pocket watch Grade 384. I posted about making a staff and breaking the roller table. I got a balance complete and installed it today. It was running slow. I thought maybe there was a hairspring length problem, so I exchanged with the original hairspring. SLOW. Amplitude is good. Now I am wondering about the actual balance wheel. See the pictures. I am wondering about extra weight due to the extra screws. This balance wheel is designed to compensate for temperature and the screws are part of that calibration process--I know that much. Should I shorten the hairpsring? Remove screws?

I decided not to read anything below the pictures because we have a problem? As a reminder this is an American pocket watch and there's a problem? When the movement is out of the case there is no stem. Why is that a problem the stem is found in the case the position of the stem is controlled by the sleeve in the case. When an American pocket watch comes out of the case it goes into setting. Like my picture isn't that wheel in the setting position? As everybody should grasp if you run a watch while in setting your driving the entire setting mechanism and simplistically that is bad. American watch companies grasping that their movements might have to run out of the case usually have a procedure to put it into the winding position or running position. I can't see enough of the movement to see what I need to see. Sometimes they'll be a screw that you turn other times they'll be a little lever like thing that's near where the stem would go in that you pull out. To basically look at how the setting components work and there should be something in there to allow it to go back in the winding position. That hopefully will improve things then if you ever seen any of my windings and fussing is about hairsprings now you know why hairsprings are typically vibrated to each balance wheel. But if you have an over a coil of the over coil has to be made very exacting position. So what they do is they match the balance wheel to the hairspring. The factory had all the different timing screws and then they also undercut the balance screws themselves to bring each one into the right timing to match the hairspring. This is why mixing and matching hairsprings will result in dramatic timing issues. So I would put the original hairspring back on the balance wheel and try to deal with the hot otherwise you're going to have to be playing with the screws quite a bit and you may still have to do it if somebody did a mix-and-match of not grasping that one hairspring is not identical to another.

Same story for escape wheel. all 21600 interchange, so would all 28800.

All three varants have same cock, regultor device and incabloc settings. jewel diference is in auto device and end stones. so any of then would fit in your watch. Google the keyword """ ETA 2789 ranfft""" , Dr ranfft lists in clolumn all variants to the base caliber 2750, on the left are listed all manual wind calibers and automatics on the right. the first family beat 21600 per hr, the second family of the same generation beat 28800 per hr. So the balance complete interchanges between 21 jewel and 25 versions, So would any other balance as long as it beats the same. namely 21600 and 28800 bph Good luck pal.

ETA2789 and ETA 2789-1 have the same escape wheeel, they differ in complications. Considering the low shipping costs of what LWS shows, they are not really expensive. Speedtimekolection ships free to Europe.

Here...not cheap Another overseas here ...and here and many more I dont know if there is a difference between the 2789 and the 2789-1. You will have to do some research. Email: [email protected] and see what he has. A US source. I have bought from him in the past.

That is normal, the pallet fork holds steady the train including the escape wheel, even at full wind, when the balance doesn't swing, or is even removed. With some experience you will become able and used to inspect the condition of of each part while taking the mov.t apart.

The google is 'yer fiend.......

That is the escape wheel, not balance. The 'cog' is a pinion, the 'gem' an hole jewel. The 'point' is the pivot and of course must be there for the wheel assembly to rotate precisely. As mentioned above already in your case it has snapped due to forcing the bridge down without it being in the hole.

Excellent advice.

I put the screws back on. Gonna wait on the spring. Every time you take it apart, there is additional risk. The screws were easy because I have the right tools!! Yay.

When a beginner is confused about that, for sure it's a front loader. Please be aware, with almost any question you need to post clear pictures to enable others to help you.

Indeed. The other day I had a Seiko train strangely seizing and the reason why it did became apparent only when I tested the 4th wheel (center seconds) alone. Reason was that the upper jewel had moved down a tiny bit due to a shock. Watchmaking It's all about reasoning, inspecting, testing, and even fight gremlins. A procedure that is in the book may prove inconvenient, or you may happen to get things working by sheer luck. In the end, it's the result that counts.

Hi The reasoning behind testing each wheel is as the plate has been screwed down there mat be a sightly deformed pivot and checking esch individual wheel in its jewels you will be able to locate any duff pivot or a wheel not running flat. It is easier to check the individual rather than the whole. Its a londrawn out method but in the end you are assured that either something is off /broken or running ok. Its just being confident in you diagnosis.

In stock at cousins at £32.

What you see in picture is what you get, no casing ring, that is part of the case, not the mov.t which can fit very different cases. That being said what is the reason for which you want to change it, normal practice is first at least try to understand what is the problem, if any.

If my eye sight is good it looks like a Buser 95 the pivture when blown up is fuzzy Technical info is a bit short on this watch. think we are looking at removing the broken pivot from the plate and making a new onr for the arbour. the only other alternative is to find a donor watch on Ebay

And so does Cousins UK with rhe most complete inventory https://www.cousinsuk.com/category/chinese-movement-lists

Hi Ross at this point in the proceedings I tend to agree with jdm's conclusion. The thing to do is to remove the bridge and the wheels, including the balance and fork/pallet . Then check each wheels pivots for being bent/broken. If they ckeck out ok then fit one at a time checking its seated in the lower jewel then fit the bridge loosely Then fit a couple of bridge screws loosely to prevent the bridge from moving about but not screwed down. Then manipulate all the wheels into place checking that the end shake is good and the up/ movement is free. When all wheels are in their locations and before screwing down the bridge further check the up/down (end shake) on each wheel. When tightening the screws down do it a degree at a time constantly checking the shake and free dom untill the bridge is seated but not finaly screwed down. At this point check the rotation on the train. Then and oly then tighten the bridge.

With overcoils, removing weight from screws is THE option. Good amplitude sends me to look for cause of the issue outside main train, I think you have found where the issue is located, I would eliminate the minute train and see what happens. I haven't received a picutre.

What you have is a Seth Thomas 8 Day Lyre Spring Shelf Mantle Clock Movement made around the 1860's

Hi Ross attached is the parts/tech sheet in case you need it. 1999_ETA2779, 2789 (1).pdf

OP is a hobbiest and new to watchrepair, nothing like a professional repair shop, so name is a cleaning solution that suits him. Regs

Mikrolisk (German Version) helps a little: https://www.mikrolisk.de/show.php?site=280 Maybe there are some other markings elsewhere on the movement?

Cleaned, oiled, in testing phase.

Once again.. correct use of ultrasonic cleaners and related fluisce does not damage shellac.

There should be a datasheet online for this caliber or a schematic diagram, wouldn't hurt to have in additjon to the pix you have taken, I can show where every parts goes, but datasheet is best to follow for oiling. You can't oveclean the parts specically reversers, fork, escape,and balance. You didn't put the fork or balance in ultrasonic, did you? if you did, best is to check if any shellac is lost. Regards

A watch buddy sent me this picture of the opal plate that sold recently. You could make a few dials out of this piece.