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Congratulations RossU.K. has won the watches.

These movements are English and are very late Victorian. They are monster movements and they are in there thousands mass produced. Known as boardroom clocks. Some people think they are made by Winterhalder & Hofmeier, no is the answer what you have is far better made in comparison. Very little goes wrong with these just a good service because of the superiority of the brass and steel.

So, I firstly want to extend thanks to @oldhippy for taking a look at this before I parted ways with my hard earned bucks. I wanted to get ONE set, with which I could stake and set jewels with (and take to the grave). Otherwise, you end up spending double in the long run. Bear in mind I do know how this thing works; however, have no experience using it. Yet. My sights are set on some dead Chinese clone movements taking up space which will be my first victims (enter diabolical laugh here)! This thing is in outstanding condition. Seller double-boxed and bubblewrapped it nicely. Wooden storage box itself is quite lovely- solid, not veneered. Some lemon oil and polish and it should look like new. Photo is "as-unwrapped" condition. The tool itself is gorgeous. Really looks to be new. Light brasso (Honestly, probably not needed) and then hard wax and it'll look brand new(er). The table shows all the graining from when it was originally ground. A couple tiny specs of rust only. Literally as good as new. The table lock works perfectly. Stake guide is tight, and has light surface rust inside (found when I passed a very snug fitting stake through the bore). It has no perceptible wear. Definitely good. And this can run inverted stakes. The fully Monty. The bad: I need to snug the set screw for the jeweling attachment a bit. I think all the stakes and stumps are here. Minor damage to the Bakelite stake holders, but I have superglue and I'm not afraid to use it. Then I'll load a collet in the lathe and start polishing all the stakes n stuff. I have the original manual with it, so I'll be able to tell if I'm missing anything. Currently, only the skill set is missing. Who doesn't like getting a new tool!?!? I'm pretty happy at the moment, despite a global pandemic.

This one came in the mail today. Judging from the amount of dirt in it,and the tiny elastic diy strap it was probably worn by a child who played in the sandbox. I forsee an adventure.

abc watch works out in CA are very good for working on vintage stuff without destroying their value.

https://www.watchdoctor.biz/about-me/ This is a watch repairer that I came across recently, good luck.

Since I have no interest in woman watches (my wrist is to big) I thought I would give some non working ones away. There is a Vulcain, Timex, 3 Seikos, 2 Walthams , a Bulova, and an Elgin. I'll even pay the shipping. (U.S. only please) DM me with your name and in a week I'll put the names on a slip of paper and the first one my dog eats gets the watches. If you are new and for whatever reason you can't afford practice watches DM me and I can send you some cheep watches to practice on. I may be able to find some old tools for you also.

The electric is a Fench Lip R184 Correction: R148 if it has no date R184 if it has a date

Elgin 687 .

It might be a trick of the camera shot but these coils look very close to each other. It only needs one coil to stick / touch another coil and it will run fast. It could be magnetised. Also as J has said was it OK when it was returned.

I just learned that the above tool is called a truing caliper, and from what I gather or conclude by searching the Internet it can be used to determine if a balance wheel and/or a train wheel is in good condition. That is, that the wheel does not wobble vertically or horizontally. I also believe I read somewhere that a truing caliper can be used to rectify a faulty wheel, but I may have misunderstood? Anyway, I always wanted a method to at least be able to determine that all train wheels and the balance wheel are in good condition, that they don’t wobble, that the pivots are perfectly straight, and so on. Would a truing caliper like the one in the picture help me achieve this, or would there be a better option? I guess as the balance is freely visible it’s pretty easy to determine if it wobbles in any direction, but what about the train wheels? If someone can shed some more light on this tool and its use I’m sure more than I would appreciate it!

Just dress that one up! it’s way cooler.

A little while back, I made this set of trueing calipers. It was originally meant to tide me over until I could buy a pretty, vintage, German pair I had my eye on. It's just a billet of brass which I cut to shape, and where I drilled a single hole through both arms for the pivots, then holes for the set screws which I tapped for threads, then a threaded hole for the reference arm. The pivots are just thin steel bar stock with highly polished divots in the ends. I keep not getting around to snatching up a nice vintage set. Mine works well, despite lacking any real aesthetics, so I just keep using it when I need to. But I swear, one day I WILL pick up a nice German pair. One day.

MY FINGERS HURT!!! The lengthwise rubbing of these is killing my fingers! I have been cleaning parts daily, as time allows. As if this evening I’m half way through the stake cleaning process. (Looks like close to two weeks will be needed to restore this) I copied the pages from the original book so I can inventory the stakes, check them off the list, and then make a new (short) list of what I may be missing. But I now know I have all 12 reamers (Swiss made by the way) and pretty sure all the stumps too. Possibly a couple duplicate stumps, and if so, I’ll let you guys know in case someone needs it. Same for the stakes- if I have “doubles” I’ll let you guys know, in case someone needs it. PS: I have an idea to make stakes for hand setting. The idea is to use the Burgeon plastic tips in a stake of my making. Then I can precisely set hands without investing in a hand press. That’s the idea anyway. Currently I install hands by, er, hand, with a set of A-F plastic tipped tools. They’re fine but pressing perfectly straight is difficult with them.

Last night, this happened: