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Still on the same subject, I've found a relevant comment from a competent watchmaker. This results in the mainspring taking up about 75% of the available space, as opposed to older movements whose mainsprings only utilized about 50% of it. http://www.chronometrie.com/eta2892/eta2892.html

I buy from AliExpress for about 5 years now and it's basically like the Chinese version of Amazon, although they've got some issues of trust with the rating I have found, roughly, in general, the more expensive stuff is okay and in case of a problem I usually file for a dispute. in fact, now many sellers on Amazon and eBay are selling with direct shipping from A.E. with the seller's name on the invoice, so you can't even tell (A.E. has this program now). So, anytime you will see China on eBay and Amazon or 30 days shipment it must be a hint. I actually have just received my new Timegrapher about an hour ago from them and about to unbox it.

Thanks , JDM mentioned this site on Aug . 30

Thanks jdm, that made an interesting read. So far I've not worked with any modern watches, this 1970s Seiko being the most modern watch I've touched so I am used to older movements where the mainsprings are shorter. I've learnt something new today now, which makes it a good day.

You certainly can make watch parts on a mini lathe. I would recommend Cowells Super Elite. Very expensive, not sure, if they are still made if not they would have an equivalent. Do not expect to be able to make such high precision parts on these cheap lathes made in china. A mini lathe uses cutting tools that are set and held in the lathe. A watchmaker’s lathe fully equipped will do the work. You are in control of the tools when it comes to making the parts like balance staffs and the balance wheels you control the graver in your hands. For some parts, you can use fixed tooling. I have kept this very basic, as it is a minefield.

The accuracy that you work to comes down to the skill of the operator, the precision of the machine helps the operator achieve this. He headstock bearings in a watchmakers lathe come in two types, adjustable plain taper bearings and very high precision ball races. The ballraces fitted to watchmakers lathes are of a far higher tolerance fitted to mini lathes. Whatever you go for try to make sure all parts match the lathe and are in excellent condition!

I get most of my crystals here now. https://watch-replacement.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=105_106&zenid=3h40p7ug7t89jkukchqjb1jak0

Cousins UK has all the sizes for mineral glass.

You will need the exact size, 28.70. To polish deep scratches, first use 600 grit wet paper, in form of a 5cm disc on a rotary tool. Then move to 1000 oor 1500, and finish with diamond paste. Polywatch has no use on glass crystals.

If you have an accurate caliper i would go for a 27.8 . But your way of measuring is not perfect . You could very well be measuring at a place where it's smaller . I think this method is safer.

Absolutely. Thanks for the help and encouragement!

I've found 10 pieces lot for $17 including shipping on eBay USA. but as Mr. Ishima wrote the Miyota 2035 is a better quality replacement, obviously, I also find the Miyota have the Super 2035.G (gold) movement which will cost about $1 more = $5.95 on Esslinger which as they claim to give better than the 2035.

Aloha digginstony , I splurged earlier this year and got this puppy . I believe I got it at the make offer price of $224 .00 and free shipping . Man , I love it . From China , Yes ,...but very well made ....all machined and fitted parts . http://www.ebay.com/itm/TOP-Big-head-High-Quality-Watch-Case-Opener-Watch-Open-Tool-watchmaker-tools-Set-/221278174618?hash=item338534fd9a:g:9kcAAOSw~FNUacGd The first watch I opened was a vintage Seiko that must have been cross-threaded and stuck with super glue guck . I had been trying to open it for a couple of weeks using my jaxa tool , penetrating fluid , coaxing it by putting it in one of my case holders that can clamp down to my desk so it won't move and tapping the jaxa notches trying to unscrew it ,...all to no avail . After letting the penetrating fluid sit overnight on a few occasions and then tapping all around the case back with a small rubber and neoprene headed hammer , once again , No Dice . So I went ahead and got this super nifty case back opener, set the watch in the nylon holders that fit , adjust , and hold the watch between the lugs . turned down , fine adjusted , and locked in the jaxa type fittings in this case to the notches ,and Voila ,...I turned the large top wheel and had no problem opening the case back . No slipping , no scratches or gouges . Just smooth as butter . I have since opened a variety of case backs including Rolex as this tool comes with the openers that fit the tool . More pricey then a Jaxa tool , but I can easily recommended it .

Serviced a very nice Railroad Grade Pocket Watch. Sent from my GT-N5110 using Tapatalk