Leaderboard

Well.......... Ive pulled it all apart carefully and noted that the suspension was bent and twisted at the fork bridge bit, that was not at all apparent when it was assembled. I straightened it and untwisted this section. --The suspension strand has a slow gradual twist of about a full turn over its full length below the fork, but I thought, might as well press on clean it all anyway. Probably need a new one.... I sonicated it all in the tank, which took all the crud off and then in light of the above advice on light lubrication, I applied very sparingly Moebius 9000 to the pivots--Its the thinnest lightest oil I have as I don't usually do anything other than tuning-fork movements... I didnt take the mainspring out of the barrel, but did wash it all out with naptha, working the spring a few turns winding with the key etc, it was very clean in there TBH, the clock doesn't seem to have much evidence of wear anywhere, even the pallets show no polishing marks of wear... I'm thinking this clock never ran! Reassembled it and potched around with the beat as best I could--Hmm, That was tedious! Trying to get the balls to rotate whilst not swinging back and fourth as well..... So far--its run for an hour, holding just a fraction over one complete turn of the balls.....

Out walking the dog's and came across this gate. No spring required to to auto shut. Just a chain and weight. Brilliant idea ! Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

I can take that old basket bracket off - the old spring thread is in the interior of the motor shaft. I left it on as there are 'propellors' on the top that I thought might be needed to agitate the cleaning fluid. If they aren't, I can take that old plate off. I don't know what more I'd need in terms of an adaptor for the Elma basket, but the way I've done it in the photo seems to work. I'm always open to a better way of doing it though!

the word "super" haha

Ah thanks for the advice and the links. This clock is in nice condition and has good dome it cost me a fortune, All of one pound! I think the best way forward with it is firstly a good clean and very light oiling I,'ll check the suspension and escapement as described and go from there...

I used to get inundated with these clocks manly because others would not touch them. clockboy is correct in every way. A couple of pointers, if you are going to repair these clocks then there are two must haves to get and both will pay dividends, one is this book (see image) the other is a beat setting tool, I have included a link where you can get one. I would first take out the s/spring and check, make sure it is straight, with the weight of the pendulum, it might look fine but with no weight, it could be twisted or bent. Where the fork is either side of the pallets, a very tiny drop of very light oil will help to stop friction. These clocks run best on hardly any oil. https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/beat-setting-clock-tool-horolovar

I have repaired & worked on many 400 day clocks and personally I like them. I like them because they will not run unless every part being spot on and if set up correctly they will run for a year on one wind. The beat has to be correct which is altered by twisting the suspension springs holder around. The balls should travel exactly the same distance in both directions. Another fault is if the suspension spring has the slightest kink it will not run. Also over a longer period if you have the wrong strength of suspension spring it is impossible to get it clock regulated. Finally the clock must be absolutely level and this is a simple process made by adjusting the clock feet and making sure the bottom of the pendulum is in the middle of the lower cup. I have added a vid by a guy showing the regulation of a 400 day and link showing how to adjust the beat. https://billsclockworks.com/opinstructions/400Day.htm

Rogart, advice taken, replacement day wheel/disc ordered.