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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/28/16 in all areas

  1. While waiting for the poljot 3133 to arrive from Russia with Love, a nice Geisha presented me this Seiko 7T32 6M00... Cleaned and working, needs some cosmetic magic to make it shine again!
    2 points
  2. Undo the screw on the back, remove the crown/stem, replace the screw, then use a manual balloon pump (very inexpensive from most greeting card shops) to pop off the crystal. Best to place the watch into a zip bag first, then poke a hole where the crown is, place nozzle of balloon pump over the case tube and give it a couple of very quick pumps and the glass should pop off. This is how i do the front loading omegas. Will probably help to get someone to help hold the watch while you pump.
    2 points
  3. Here is a video I made on the disassembly of a Eagle Star Geneve SQUALE Diver watch. My wife bought this in the mid 70ies ($500 bucks) for diving and she had been waiting a long time for me to service it. It was used by female competitive deep divers in the 60ies to 80ies. It is a Swiss movement with the case made by an Italian company. Squale Company is now back in business. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    1 point
  4. Don’t do it yourself you will only make it worse. It needs to go to a professional watch dial restore. It will be expensive so ask for an estimate. It is a very good watch.
    1 point
  5. To identify watches we have something called the fingerprint system. The setting parts of each watch are supposed to be uniquely shaped and sized So it's not just unique to the Bestfit book other books have the setting parts I've attached images.But they don't cover every single watch made unfortunately. To use them you do need the physical size and the images in the book are supposed to be the exact size of the parts. Which is nice if you're holding the parts in your hand you can lay them over the book providing you can find them. So three different books starting at 9 lignes to 11 or 12 nothing that resembles what you have. My suspicion is yours may predate this system Then there's always the possibility that it's books may be somewhat region specific as these were published in the US. They may not cover every single watch so there may be European books that cover watches not available here
    1 point
  6. Some times you will see it as just a single word.
    1 point
  7. I think I know the answer, but I've been wrong before...... I recently overhauled a nice old pocket watch, including complete dismantling, cleaning, reassembly, and lubricating. As it happens, something wasn't quite right which necessitated completely disassembling it again (ok., so I forgot to install a component), this resolved the problem so I reassembled it, and tested it and all was fine. My question is, should I have cleaned it again once it was disassembled and then re-lubricated it?. As it happens, it's still working fine, but I'm worried that the oil may now have spread to nasty places when I disassembled then reassembled it - or am I worrying over nothing? Is there a golden rule regarding cleaning and lubricating every time you tear a movement apart? Thanks, and cheers from snowy Edmonton.
    1 point
  8. I need to get back to work on my Waltham 1892 project...once again, very nice collection Jd Ron
    1 point
  9. So this is what I got myself. Images are bad quality from seller, but you get the idea...
    1 point
  10. @Geo actually the parts are no problem, since here in Germany there is plenty of. The real problem is getting them at fair prices... but that's another story altogether. @RyMoeller: That is a very nice watch! Yes it uses the 3133 movement from Poljot which as I said in my opening post was built using the designs and machines from Valjoux, which the russians bought from the Swiss manufacturer. They did improve the design a bit, but the overall finish is rougher.
    1 point
  11. Learning new things is what makes this forum so great. After reading the excellent article by Desmond Guilfoyle of the Omega collectors site, it would appear that my hands are indeed painted. The hour and minute hands are solid gold and done in black duco which is a nitrocellulose lacquer from the 20's by DuPont I believe, the second hand which shows gold is plated, go figure. Otto Frei lists the original gold hub baton hands for my watch ref, 168.029 with the 751 movement Part number HAN4174 and the description is with black duco finish and this finish is also listed for most of the rest of the hands. While the indices are Onyx i do not find much reference that it was used on the hands. If it is any help in answering the OP's original question, the paint if used would be black duco. This was a nitrocellulose lacquer, not sure where to get this today though...
    1 point
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