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It is indeed for testing watches, but not just for automatics. I use it when regulating all watches after a service, it cycles the watch through all positions and gives you a good idea how good the watch will keep time when on someone's wrist. Even having set a watch this way, sometimes it has to be regulated to suit the wearer.

New listing BERGEON WATCHMAKER No. 5555 WATER PROOF TESTER 0 - 3 ATM BAR Bargain for someone. Its the earlier 5555, and not the later 5555/98 model.

well, i'm glad to have helped with providing you with those items. i'm sure you'll do them justice.

Not ideal is that.

Yes thats a good and better idea & will look at it after the Christmas period. Very busy with family now & not allowed into my workshop by her who must be obeyed.

Perhaps the way I repaired the crack in the copper-alloy bracelet, page 1 of this thread, could be of any use?

Waltham was a rather innovative company that made interesting watches to puzzle watchmakers. Like changing the balance staff and opening the mainspring barrel. Attached is an image of the barrel which I think you have.

I tried Alum, I had a watch case with 2 screw snapped in it, left it in the alum solution for about 4 days and it did absolutely nothing. I also had an Omega movement with a setting lever screw with the head rounded which would not budge, this time i bought the very expensive Bergeon tool which has already been mentioned - i found this to be a complete waste of time too! maybe i wasn't using it right, i don't know. I ended up drilling it out!

I've got a bag like that in my desk drawer too. My tried and true method: Dissolve about a half teaspoon in a shot glass of water (water will become a bit cloudy) Fill rice cooker with about 1 inch of water and set to warm Place plate (stripped of steel) in glass Set glass in center of rice cooker bath Check in 12 hours or so The steel you're attempting to extract should turn black and crumbly and you'll be able to work it out of the plate with a sharp bit of pegwood or an old oiler. It may take more than one bath in the Alum depending on the strength of the solution, temperature, and the surface area of the steel.

£2.5 for printing a work order, getting the part, putting it in a envelope/package and sending it to you - I'ts a steal in my opinion and the company will be making no money on that order!

Welcome to the forum. J

Photos would help. You could put a little watch oil on the pivots to see if that helps, I'd sooner see photos, I don't want you breaking stuff.

In an ideal world you should have both types. Hollow ground ones will be used but when normal force is not sufficient then the flat sided ones take over as it takes greater force before breaking! In reality this only matters if your working on the top drawer movements like Patek etc. to avoid screw slot damage/ marking. So if you have means to sharpen screwdrivers both hollow and flat sided... it makes sense to hollow ground the smaller sizes and flat grind the larger ones. Personally flat sides have worked for me, but I haven't gotten my hands on a Patek yet! Anil