Leaderboard

Since I was working on the Landeron 48 with wrong dial, from which I used the case and a Landeron 151 and correct dial to make a new watch, I saw this Landeron 248 sitting in the drawer at my desk and devided to finally tackle the issue it had: a slipping mainspring. I documented the disassembly of the movement vith 3 videos, the first of which is here below: Hope you enjoy

What gives it away for me is the two brackets with screw holes. A French movement strike on a bell not gong. I can't see a hole in the bottom of the case where the gong would be fixed. Something like this. In this photo you can see the two fixing straps.

Hello, I have just joined the forum. My name is Deborah Bell and I run a mechanical watch and clock museum with my mother, in Haltwhistle Northumberland- 'Mr George's Museum of Time'. The museum is based around a series of children's stories which my mum wrote about her father who was a watch and clock repairer in Northumberland- the 'Mr George the clockman stories'. My mum became a repairer herself and has a huge collection of watches, clocks, tools and parts so we decided to bring everything together so children could learn all about mechanical "proper" time and Mr George, and adults could look at the collection and reminisce. She still repairs both watches and clocks now and has her workshop on our museum premises! Hope to chat to a few of you on here!

The second part of the video is finally ready: Enjoy... The third and final part will be uploaded in a few days.

The number at the base is the one 7 2. You have the makers name which I can't make out in your photo. If you can get a copy of Watchmakers & Clockmakers of the World - Brian Loomes you should be able to find the makers name and dates of manufacture.

I would say that case is anything from 1920's to 1940's. If you unscrew the bell you might find a stamp mark with the name of the maker and it might include a date. That nut for the bell is not the original. Also you should see two sets of numbers I set is for the length of the pendulum it is down in the Pouce & Lignes system it's an old French measurement system. The other set of numbers are for the pendulum, the original pendulum will have the same set of numbers. Your movement is an 8 Day Count wheel strike, the hands are of the spade style.

Jerry Kieffer on the NAWCC watch repair forum is a great proponent of the Sherline cross slide lathe. He often debates the suitability of the Sherline for making watch components with people who prefer WW style lathes. The result seems to be that the Sherline would do just fine, if the proper techniques are used. The Sherline can also accept 8mm WW style collets, and a tool rest, so you could certainly freehand on it if you wanted too. I have yet to pull the trigger on a lathe, but a Sherline is currently at the top of my list. Ideally I'd have three lathes, ww style, Sherline, and something a bit bigger for case work and that would be beefy enough for "spinning" type work. But, I'm dreaming. I'll be lucky if I can afford a nice new set of screwdrivers as my next purchase.

A bit narrow for the first try.

Welcome! I can see you have great smile Clayton! Cheers, Bob

Welcome Jeremy! I think you are in a very special location: the land of ofrei.com! I wish I was close and not have to pay shipping...I order a lot from them. In any case, I enjoyed the picture of your watches, very nice! Cheers, Bob

Could you give me the measurements. Height of the case, width, width of the inside and and diameter where the dial will fit. I can tell you it has been altered inside at the bottom where it has been looks like chiseled away in order to take a movement with a different pendulum.

probably is a "front loader" vinn

lathe is not the right tool. check out "gear hob" or milling machine. vinn

Its another of my Elgins today for me.