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By RichardHarris123 · Posted
Hello and welcome from Leeds. No such thing as a stupid question. Find something to practice on before starting the Vertex. -
I'm looking for the movement spacer ring for a Vertex 1944 military 'dirty dozen'. Ideally, I'd like to buy an original, although that may prove difficult. So, anyone with anything similar or just the correct sizings, would suffice for now. Alternatively, is there anyone that may be able to machine one (preffered) ? Or maybe even the dreaded 3D printing ? -
By Neverenoughwatches · Posted
Fashion watch casebacks are extremely tight with no gap for a knife to enter. A razor blade is the only tool that gets me in with a sharp ping as the back releases. Personally i wouldn’t modify, as it is you can remove and replace though somewhat difficult , with a mod it may not stay on. It could very well be a sharp edge that keeps it in place , a light rub might take away that edge ? It wouldn’t be worth that risk to me, just how accurate is a drill and the chuck, its not the accuracy of a lathe . -
Quick hello. I'm Wayne, living in N Wales, UK. Total newbie to watches. Always liked them, but never got deep into them. Anyway, last year, I dived in and bought a vintage Omega, which turned out to be a pig, so it was returned. I am a engineer by profession, so was annoyed that I didn't know how to repair it myself. So, I then bought a Omega Dynamic chronograph, which works perfectly fine and I absolutely love it. Then a friend introduced me to the 'Dirty Dozen' and being ex military, I wanted one. So, now, I own a Vertex DD in need of repair and gentle restoration. (I have restored my own classic car, so am well aware of maintaining as much originality as possible) and I love the age and patina on the watch. And finally, I am now hooked on watching watch repair videos on UToob and would just like to learn and give it a go as a hobby. The professional level tools for this job are hugely expensive though, that's my first learning curve 🙂. Anyway, expect me to pop up asking wildly stupid questions around the forum.
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By Neverenoughwatches · Posted
The pins on those are a bit aggressive, not handed i believe. I find them easier to unhook if i back them out where the spring begins to wind away and widen out. There's also a trick to stop them snapping around to the openings, its also a good idea to soften the edges of the 3 closure prongs.
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