Jump to content

AS 1950/51

Andyworks
 Share

Recommended Posts

Andyworks Member

Andyworks

Posted
Posted

Good afternoon

 

I have an old Rotary wristwatch that has an AS 1950/51 movement. The watch was old and dirty when I got it at a car boot sale. It would run but roughly and due to time constraints I never had time to work on it and clean it up and service it.

 

I have finally got around to stripping it down fully and have ultrasonically cleaned and have lubricated it all and it is all back together but it doesn't run. Well I say it doesn't run it does but not properly. When you wind the watch the escape wheel and pallets kick into life immediately and with the hands on the second hands sweeps around non stop until the mainspring is unwound but the minute and the hour hands do not move.

 

The minute and hour hands move freely when you pull the crown out to set the watch and there is no binding whatsoever. I remember that when I stripped the watch down I noticed that the small cannon pinion that is part of the keyless works drive was friction fitted and took a good pull to remove it but the minute cannon pinion was not and it came away easily.

 

I read that some watches have friction fit cannon pinions and some do not and rely purely on friction grease as used on automatic watch mainsprings to allow them to grip the barrel wall. I have cleaned the minute cannon pinion again and applied some friction grease to it and rebuild the lower end but alas same thing again. 

 

Does anyone know if the minute cannon pinion is a friction fit on this movement or if it is friction grease that drives it? I am at a loss as I am so near yet so far to having the movement back in it's case and being able to enjoy wearing it.

 

Many thanks

 

Andy

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Andyworks Member

Andyworks

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hi oldhippy

 

Yes that is the movement I have. The cannon pinion you have pointed at in your pic is friction fitted but the usual one under the hour wheel is not and is a slip fit. Is the issue with the cannon pinion you have pointed at?

 

Andy

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
rogart63 Distinguished Member

rogart63

Posted
Posted (edited)

AS1950 has a what you call a friction pinion . It's not the minute wheel in the middle that is slipping. The friction is done with a small friction pinion on the  large wheel . AS call it calm wheel i think. The cannon pinion should be loose. So don't tighten that up. 

Edited by rogart63
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
oldhippy Distinguished Member

oldhippy

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, Andyworks said:

Hi oldhippy

 

Yes that is the movement I have. The cannon pinion you have pointed at in your pic is friction fitted but the usual one under the hour wheel is not and is a slip fit. Is the issue with the cannon pinion you have pointed at?

 

Andy

 

Yes that's the one.  As this type is small in height, you do not have much to tighten. You might have to get a replacement.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Andyworks Member

Andyworks

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hi old hippy

 

Apologies for not replying sooner but have been so busy I have not been near the watch until today. It is a tiny part with not much to tighten like you said. I didn't have a punch or pair of pliers small enough to get in on the stem to deform it slightly to improve the friction fit so thought outside of the box and used  pair of nail clippers. Not the go to for watch makers or repairers I am sure but none the less as an engineer I like to think of solutions to problems. I gently held the inside of the pinion and found the original spot where the pinion tube had been deformed during manufacture and gently set the cutting edges of the nailclippers on the same spot and squeezed ever so gently. I refitted the pinion to the watch and ……………….

The friction to adjust the time has greatly improved and the watch hour and minute hands are now moving as they should so success. 

Thank you ever so much for all your help and a big thank you to everyone who took the time to read and also those who replied to my post.

 

Andy

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 3 years later...
EdB Member

EdB

Posted
Posted
On 6/8/2018 at 8:25 AM, Andyworks said:

Hi old hippy

 

Apologies for not replying sooner but have been so busy I have not been near the watch until today. It is a tiny part with not much to tighten like you said. I didn't have a punch or pair of pliers small enough to get in on the stem to deform it slightly to improve the friction fit so thought outside of the box and used  pair of nail clippers. Not the go to for watch makers or repairers I am sure but none the less as an engineer I like to think of solutions to problems. I gently held the inside of the pinion and found the original spot where the pinion tube had been deformed during manufacture and gently set the cutting edges of the nailclippers on the same spot and squeezed ever so gently. I refitted the pinion to the watch and ……………….

The friction to adjust the time has greatly improved and the watch hour and minute hands are now moving as they should so success. 

Thank you ever so much for all your help and a big thank you to everyone who took the time to read and also those who replied to my post.

 

Andy

I have the same movement with the exact same problem. I'll try to tighten up the canyon pinion to see if that resolves the problem. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Murks
      2813

      By Murks · Posted

      Yea a have given it a full service this movement is chinese 2813 whats the left angle for this movement does anyone knows  and how to do a remove the default 52 degrees on my timegrapher?
    • VWatchie
      Epilame / Fixodrop

      By VWatchie · Posted

      Sure! Some very accomplished repairers never use epilame! I have often wondered if it is worth the trouble. Not using epilame will shorten the service intervals though, but that could be better perhaps both for the owner and the repairer!? Speaking of oiling, I just read this: After WWII in the 1950s the first Synthetic Oils came on the market. Most watchmakers did not rush to use these oils since they were bad for business now that the watch serviced with Synthetic oil would not come back to him for service for another 5-7 years he would lose a lot of income. ~Ofrei.com   Anyway, I wouldn't be surprised if it would be more correct to think of epilame as a binder rather than a repellant. Until convinced otherwise that's how I will think of epilame.
    • Neverenoughwatches
      Epilame / Fixodrop

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      I read that same article last night  H.  I think epilame is too much headache for me, sources aren't always accurate, some conflicting. Such is the GRAVITY of this situation, Is it ok if i just STICK  to a thixotropic oil 🤣
    • VWatchie
      Epilame / Fixodrop

      By VWatchie · Posted

      Not sure I follow along. As I stated in one of my previous posts, the epilame will remain intact between rubbing parts as long as the surface is lubricated by oil or grease. Maybe it's just a coincidence, but note how the epilame-treated surface is illustrated in @Waggy's post. It looks like the oil is exposed to a binder (epilame!) so that it can't move sideways.
    • Neverenoughwatches
      Epilame / Fixodrop

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      The epilame under the oil will also be removed  Unless the oil makes a barrier between the epilame and the escape teeth 😅 I think i need two strong coffees now 🤣
×
×
  • Create New...