Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello all,

I have some issues with Eta 2824.

As the amplitude was low, I have stripped the movement and oiled it according to Mark's video on youtube. I used only Anchor universal oil on all necessary parts.

I manually wound the movement before assembling the date and oscilaltong weight parts. Everything was perfect (straight line, amplitude more than 300).

A week later I started the same movment again and the amplitude was a litle bit lower (about 270). I continued with other assembly (date parts, dial, hands). After assembly the day rate and amplitude started to oscillate (from -2 to +10 s/day and amp. from 190 to 230), while the beat error remained ok (0.1).

I disassembled the dial, hands and day wheel again, but the amplitude is still low.

I tried also installing another balance (working perfecty in another 2824 watch) but no luck. Also demagnetising does not help.

Is it possible that I ruined something while powering down the mainspring too fast?

Is there anything else to check ?

Please help...

 

Posted
1 hour ago, dreja said:

Anchor universal oil

So one oil for everything is that what Mark recommended?

Then anchor oil has some interesting properties. First Zero specifications as to what it is. Then at least in the past a lot of unhappy customers because it goes from lubricating to glue very very fast. But maybe they have fixed that by now?

 

 

Posted

JohnR275, thanks for the answer.

Sorry, I didn't explain properly. Mark didn't recommend Anchor oil in the video - he recommended other oils, and also different oils for different parts.

But I used the Anchor oil and I used it to oil all the parts.

Do you think that the main cause for my issues is the wrong oil ?

Thanks

Andrej

Posted

So exactly what you're describing is what other people have described lubrication goes bad superfast. Easy way to find out is take the watch apart and clean it again and find another oil.

So as a beginner the cost of watch oil is astronomically expensive. Do a search on this message board and you'll find a lot of unhappy people over the cost of watch oil.  On the other hand a little tiny bottle will last you for years. Then there really is not a universal watch oil good for everything. But knowing that it's not ideal but it will work you could go for a bottle of Moebius Synta-Visco-Lube (9020) Watch Oil. It's synthetic it has a very long life it's a little heavy for some of the balance and escapement but it will work.

  • Like 1
Posted

Agree with John but considering the 2824 isn't, after all, a cheap mov.t I would recommend to use exactly what ETA recommends. I suppose that's 9010 on all jewels but pallet stones, where 941 should be used. And don't oil pallet fork pivots.
That will maximize amplitude & durability, for a total of GBP 30 before VAT it won't break the bank.

  • Like 2
  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • A helpful way in aid of assembly is to place all the wheels in their respective places, place to plate on the top and fit a couple of the nuts onto the pillars. This stops all the wheels wobbling about as they are lightly held by the plate, you can manoeuvre the pivots into their holes, using a tool , usually home made or can be bought on eBay. I made my own. As the pivots align and fall into place screw the nuts down a bit to keep up the tension on the plate untill all wheels are in place then tighten down sufficiently to keep the plate in place whilst checking the end shake on ALL wheels and their location when all is good only then tighten down the plate.
    • I'd say my Pultra 10 lathe. It is just so well made and everything fits so tightly together.
    • Welcome to the forum, enjoy. 
    • Yes, the specific old tools do exist, but may be having one is not needed as they are not cheap, and also You will be able to do without it well enough. My advice will be to use regular depthing tool and adjust it for the exact distance between pallet fork and escape wheel bearings from the watch. Then remove the shellac from the pallet that now doesn't pass the ew teeth and move this pallet in. Then put the pallet fork and ew on the depthing tool and check how they lock. They should not lock when the pallet is in, but You will little by little move the pallet out and locking will appear. Then move just an idea out for reliable work and apply shellac, then check if things are still the same. You have to observe where the teeth fall on the pallets - it must be just a little below the edge between impulse and rest planes. Then You must check how everything behaves in the movement This Potence tool is so ingenious, but actually, the traditional way to do the things is much more simple. Arrange the parts not on the pillar plate, but on the cover plate. Only the central wheel will remain on the pillar plate, secured by the cannon pinion.
    • There is a tool that was made for setting up and adjusting escapements of full plate watches.  There were two styles, the picture below shows both of them.  The lower tool held a movement plate and the vertical pointed rods were adjusted to hold the unsupported pivots of the lever and escape wheel.  There was also a version of this tool that had 3 adjustable safety centres so that the balance pivot could be supported by the tool :  The other version I’m aware of is the Boynton’s Escapement Matching and Examining Tool came as a set of two or three clamps that gripped the watch plate and held the safety centres for the pivots : These do turn up on eBay from time to time.  For some escapement work, you can set up the parts in a regular depthing tool, with the centres set according to the distance between the corresponding pivot holes on the movement.  I hope this helps, Mark
×
×
  • Create New...