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1967 Vietnam Era Military Watch DTU-2A/P

jkjoller

By jkjoller
in Watch Repairs Help & Advice

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jkjoller New Member

jkjoller

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Posted

Hello-

I found a Vietnam Era military watch (model DTU-2A/p MIL) dated 1967. It doesn't work and I would like to practice fixing it. But I can't figure out how the back comes off. I think its a snap back and have tried a pry knife and can't get it to budge.
Can anyone help me out?

Also, does anyone know who made these?

IMG_3146.jpg

IMG_3147.jpg

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Chopin Super WRT Addict

Chopin

Posted
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I have a feeling that the watch might be a front loader. The glass comes out, then either the entire movement and dial or in some cases the hands come out, then the dial and then the movement.

Is the stem still inside ? That might hinder removing the movement.

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jkjoller New Member

jkjoller

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I guess this watch is destined for the trash. I can't get the crystal to pop no matter what. I guess I could buy the Bergeon tool but on Esslinger (it cost $175.00). Don't really want to spend that for this one.

FYI, I tried Mark Lovicks recommendation of using a piece of plastic and a syringe. Still wont budge.

 

If anyone has any ideas, please let me know.

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azkid Watch Enthusiast

azkid

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I just fought a stubborn Timex front loader. Had to use the hot air rework station to heat the case. A hot air gun might work instead. I try to keep the heat in the 150-200C range to be sure the crystal doesn't melt.

You can get useable crystal lift tools without spending a fortune if that is an issue. Electro-vise works nicely (mine has stripped threads though) or for new I just got a cheap one and it works ok but can mark up the crystal. That's fine if you're replacing it.

Don't trash it! Worst case, set it aside for another time and try a different watch.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

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ricardopalamino Distinguished Member

ricardopalamino

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5 hours ago, jkjoller said:

I guess this watch is destined for the trash. I can't get the crystal to pop no matter what. I guess I could buy the Bergeon tool but on Esslinger (it cost $175.00). Don't really want to spend that for this one.

FYI, I tried Mark Lovicks recommendation of using a piece of plastic and a syringe. Still wont budge.

 

If anyone has any ideas, please let me know.

I have used a bicycle pump and the needle from a turkey injector , [used to inject juice into a roasting turkey ] after putting a watch into a zip loc baggie and cutting a small hole at the stem tube to pop out the crystal .

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BUSAKAZ WRT Addict

BUSAKAZ

Posted
Posted
Hello-
I found a Vietnam Era military watch (model DTU-2A/p MIL) dated 1967. It doesn't work and I would like to practice fixing it. But I can't figure out how the back comes off. I think its a snap back and have tried a pry knife and can't get it to budge.
Can anyone help me out?
Also, does anyone know who made these?
IMG_3146.jpg.041010f829aa2fa0d8b49041fe9aaea7.jpg
IMG_3147.jpg.b6df5213e336f894c8e29aa6c505f966.jpg

It’s a BENRUS with a Swiss movement, it’s a front loader you need a crystal lift , it’s a one piece case, google is your friend.

Cheers Kaz


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BUSAKAZ WRT Addict

BUSAKAZ

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It’s a BENRUS with a Swiss movement, it’s a front loader you need a crystal lift , it’s a one piece case, google is your friend.

Cheers Kaz


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

BENRUS cal. DR2F2 movement


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  • 4 years later...
Neverenoughwatches Distinguished Member

Neverenoughwatches

Posted
Posted
On 2/19/2018 at 10:07 PM, jkjoller said:

Hello-

I found a Vietnam Era military watch (model DTU-2A/p MIL) dated 1967. It doesn't work and I would like to practice fixing it. But I can't figure out how the back comes off. I think its a snap back and have tried a pry knife and can't get it to budge.
Can anyone help me out?

Also, does anyone know who made these?

IMG_3146.jpg

IMG_3147.jpg

Hi Jk. I dont suppose you still have this watch, preferably in one piece. Thanks

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Marc Distinguished Member

Marc

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Just for the record, these are a one piece case, the back does not come off. Split stem, and everything comes out through the front. I have just done one.

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Marc Distinguished Member

Marc

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9 hours ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

How did you find working on it ?

Pretty straight forward really. It came to me because the customer had had winding issues and the two piece stem had been pulled all the way out, so liberating the movement was just a matter of removing the crystal and it fell out. I don't know if they are all like this but the crown on this one had a very light line etched across it in the same orientation as the connector in the split stem so if the crown is still in situ all you have to do is align the line on the crown vertically and the movement will just fall out, no pulling with pincers to separate the stem.

The movement is an ETA 2372 which is a straight forward manual winder. This one had issues though. It had an incorrect spring for the hack which was what was causing the winding issues, the hack pin which contacts the balance wheel to stop it was bent over flat, I found a paper shim under the train wheel bridge without which the centre wheel bound up tight as a result of zero end shake, and it had the wrong mainspring fitted.

I couldn't get a replacement hack spring so I modified the closest replacement I could find so that it works. Straightening the pin was easy, as was adjusting the center wheel end shake with a jewel press so that I could do away with the shim. After that it was a straight forward service and fit the correct M/S.

It's a really nice watch actually and I wouldn't mind owning one myself.

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Neverenoughwatches Distinguished Member

Neverenoughwatches

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19 hours ago, Marc said:

Pretty straight forward really. It came to me because the customer had had winding issues and the two piece stem had been pulled all the way out, so liberating the movement was just a matter of removing the crystal and it fell out. I don't know if they are all like this but the crown on this one had a very light line etched across it in the same orientation as the connector in the split stem so if the crown is still in situ all you have to do is align the line on the crown vertically and the movement will just fall out, no pulling with pincers to separate the stem.

The movement is an ETA 2372 which is a straight forward manual winder. This one had issues though. It had an incorrect spring for the hack which was what was causing the winding issues, the hack pin which contacts the balance wheel to stop it was bent over flat, I found a paper shim under the train wheel bridge without which the centre wheel bound up tight as a result of zero end shake, and it had the wrong mainspring fitted.

I couldn't get a replacement hack spring so I modified the closest replacement I could find so that it works. Straightening the pin was easy, as was adjusting the center wheel end shake with a jewel press so that I could do away with the shim. After that it was a straight forward service and fit the correct M/S.

It's a really nice watch actually and I wouldn't mind owning one myself.

That is really helpful thanks marc. A friend is searching for one, your information now gives me some option on choosing a working or restoration,  i really appreciate that 👍

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    • PeterS
      Stem removal after fitting hands

      By PeterS · Posted

      Yes, the seconds hand is the longest and goes almost to the edge of the dial. I can’t quite picture it how you do it on the rubber pad
    • Murks
      Battery

      By Murks · Posted

      A don't think so it leaked or damaged it because the watch itself works it just the buttons ain't working not connecting with the circuit board have taken more pictures of where the buttons makes contact with the circuit board.
    • Neverenoughwatches
      Stem removal after fitting hands

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      I think what peter means oh is once he has fitted the hands and  checked for  alignment if them and that they dont foul, how does he then hold the movement to remove the stem in order to case up. The dial cannot be laid on a cushion or in a movement holder as the hands will get damaged. This can be quite tricky for a beginner, what i do is  to stand the movement on edge on a rubber pad so it doesn't slip. Hold the top edge with one finger then my dominant hand uses 3 fingers to press the stem release and flick out the stem. See below peter, leave off the second hand as this is the longest and gets caught the most, then fit it once the stem is out. Alternatively place the movement in one of the cup style holders, i imagine this is what they are designed for. They only touch the very edge of the dial.  
    • PeterS
      Stem removal after fitting hands

      By PeterS · Posted

      Yes I understand that. What I’m asking is, after the hands have been fitted, it’s been checked that the hands do not touch etc. then I need to remove the stem to fit the movement in the case. I have the push type, I need to turn it upside down and push the setting lever post and pull the stem out. But of course the dial and hands are in place and I have a glossy dial with lume dots and I do not want to cause any damage while it’s upside down pushing on the post of the setting lever.
    • oldhippy
      Stem removal after fitting hands

      By oldhippy · Posted

      You have answered your own question. You just push the setting lever nipple in or if its the screw in type unscrew it a little. You should always remove any hands and the dial before putting it in your movement holder. 
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