Jump to content

Repairer required


SliderAl

Recommended Posts

Greetings WRT members! I am a new member, and I have taken up watch repairing very recently. I am, however very inexperienced!   

I live in Wirral, which is on Merseyside in the North West of England. I have a Seiko 5 Automatic which will only run if it is flat on its back! when picked up and put on my wrist, it runs for maybe 5 seconds and stops. I'll remove the watch, give it a small shake and put it down and it will run quite happily until the spring runs down. This is usually about 12-20 hours. I am reluctant to strip the watch myself, as I'm inexperienced. 

Would cleaning the movement in alcohol do more harm than good? Should I give it to a watchsmith for attention?  I would appreciate any comments from more experienced members. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Recently had an ETA automatic watch with the same "issue". I cleaned it, serviced it and it works like a charm.

Seiko 5s are cheap so it depends. You can get a new one, take it to a watchmaker or try to "fix" it yourself although if you have no tools or experience I wouldn't advise it. Unless you plan on using it for training and start a watchmaking hobby or even a career.

PS: You're supposed to strip the movement and clean the parts with an ultrasonic cleaner or by hand, one by one, not drop it into a bath of various liquids.

Edited by Chopin
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 minutes ago, SliderAl said:

Would cleaning the movement in alcohol do more harm than good? Should I give it to a watchsmith for attention?  I would appreciate any comments from more experienced members. 

I suspect you're thinking about dipping the entire mov.t in alcohol, that won't fix anything and will make things worse. Unfortunately it takes time and money to learn how to repair watches. Any decent watchmaker will ask more money than the value of the watch just to look at it. So your only practical choice is to buy a new one. You can probably sell the broken one for about 15 pound. If you want instead give it a go buy yourself buy some proper tools, and fluids lubricants (a minimum of 50 - 100 pounds total) and check Mark Lovick's 7S26 video tutorial. Then you will have to identify the fault, it could be from a loose screw to balance complete. However in full honesty the chances of getting right a very first repair attempt aren't very high. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

In my lay and unqualified opinion you may have a fault in the balance, escape wheel, lever  or possibly the gear train. The oil may have deteriorated. As it is not a valuable watch you could try immersing the movement in Naphtha for a while and see if the balance runs whilst doing so. If it works you need to oil the watch very sparingly throughout. The information from Chopin  and slider Al is correct. See Mark Lovick on u tube and get a copy of Practical Watch repairing. de Carle. Good wishes for your success.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, ecodec said:

The oil may have deteriorated. As it is not a valuable watch you could try immersing the movement in Naphtha for a while and see if the balance runs whilst doing so. If it works you need to oil the watch very sparingly throughout. 

Dried oil is not enough to stop a Seiko.

Once again, dropping the entire movie.t into any fluid is NOT advisable, and will NOT fix the watch. Also, oiling can ONLY be done on a disassembled movement. Can't be done 'throughout'.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, jdm said:

Dried oil is not enough to stop a Seiko.

Once again, dropping the entire movie.t into any fluid is NOT advisable, and will NOT fix the watch. Also, oiling can ONLY be done on a disassembled movement. Can't be done 'throughout'.

OK. Thanks. Just trying to help the guy get it going, that is all.  It has worked a couple of times for me in the past.  Oiling ?  I agree  the movt has to be stripped to oil properly. He will learn to strip it when he gets a little more experience.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Usually the coiled spring contacts the piezo sounder and the finger spring is the ground.
    • So I checked with my friendly local lab supplier and they can supply the following in 2.5 lt bottles: Tetrachloroethylene (B-Dip) - approx £65 Trichloroethylene (one-dip) - approx £43 n-Heptane 99% (Essence of Renata) - approx £35 Hexane - approx £45 I can't import or buy locally the 'real' products, hence the raw chemicals above. What do you think would be my best option? I'm edging towards Trichloroethylene - I know there are greater health risks, but given the very small quantities used for each treatment and 99.99% of the time it will be sealed in a jar, I think any risk is vanishingly small? This is mainly due to its assumed superior cleaning properties, or from the experience of this group, is the extra cleaning noticeable compared to its safer alternatives?
    • Unfortunately after much investigation, apparently the coil has been discontinued! Shall I get my service guy to try the solder or the conductive paint? 🎨 Final recommendation please🙏
    • Here are the pics of the bridge. Looks correct, but as soon as I screw on the rotor, the watch stops. Video here: https://1drv.ms/v/s!ArG5E62RGctxjokY5ws85BzuJLVakA   Pics. Might have figured it out. I have been working on this watch for a while and since I got it as a non runner in a terrible shape, there was no guarantee that parts were proper. I think the main screw that was used on the rotor was too long, so it was stopping the main train. As soon as I fished out a much shorter and larger headed screw, things were good again. Please celebrate with me.  
    • One-dip or naphtha should be safe, but are you sure it isn't magnetized?  I would also check that.  Although, if that balance is from an Elgin 760 0r 761, I would think it would have a hairspring of non-magnetic alloy.
×
×
  • Create New...