Omega seamaster 396.1042

[transporter]

Evening guys, just been given an omega seamaster 200m to service, its got an ETA 255561 movement and 1441 on movement, case number is 396.1042. My question is this, can I get a list of part numbers anywhere, I need to renew the case gasket and the stem gasket, the movement keeps great time, although the battery requires replacing as the second hand is skipping 5 secs at a time, but over the last week whilst ive been away it has kept time to the second when sat next to my phone. 

If it was mine I would just change the battery without touching the movement due to it running so well, should I  run some tests on the movement as per the tech sheets from ETA, and if all results are within required specs not strip and clean and lube,? (Don't fix what isn't broken) or go ahead and do a full service ive been told it was serviced approx 5 years ago.

I've been on cousins and they stock the gaskets but there are 3 listed and no other information given about them ,hence why I could do with the correct part numbers if possible.

Cheers for any help guys

[transporter]

Just had a longer look on cousins site and found 4 documents for download with my case ref, now to try and work out what one is mine

[rogart63]

That 5 seconds indicate that it's time to change the battery. So there is no fault. I have one that fingers crossed never been serviced. I don't think it need to be  serviced that often. Gasket you can buy from cousinuk . Generic or original. The later will cost more. 

[Johnnie]

I would change the battery and gaskets then leave it alone, as you said it's keeping perfect time. 

[jdm]

If you wanted to do things properly, you should measure current draw as indicated in the service sheet, which is a direct indication of the efficiency of the stepper motor and train. But that requires either a super-expensive dedicated quartz testing equipment, or a reasonably expensive multi meter capable or reading low uA. In the ends it's just an expensive quartz watch, even if the mov.t will require replacement as some time, that will still cost less than 1hr of qualified work.

[Ishima]

The movement appears to be obsolete, or at least turning obsolete. Availability could be a problem, if my quick - not at all thorough searching can be relied on.

Can you speak with the owner of the watch? Its possible that they're under some misgivings -- such as mistaking the hand jumping for a fault -- it would be ethical to check and explain that first and just offer a battery and re seal unless they insist on a service. 

[transporter]

Well I’ll ask my smith to see if he will do a test on it for me, I don’t own a good quartz tester as of yet, but if it comes back good then I shall inform the owner of its condition and will then get new gaskets and test it for water resistance.

JDM, out of wonder what is an hour of qualified work now a days at your neck of the woods????

[jdm]

1 hour ago, transporter said:

Well I’ll ask my smith to see if he will do a test on it for me, I don’t own a good quartz tester as of yet, but if it comes back good then I shall inform the owner of its condition and will then get new gaskets and test it for water resistance.

I say don't bother! It's good to go, for sure.

1 hour ago, transporter said:

JDM, out of wonder what is an hour of qualified work now a days at your neck of the woods????

You ask for 70-100, but personally I'm happy with an half of that. That being said in my profession, which is not watch repair, I never charge based on time, only per objective and goal.

[Ishima]

From my perspective -- working on a watch repair branch -- I try and get a fair price per job but I make no attempt to make consistent money per hour for the branch, if for no other reason than it's futile to try.

Sometimes you spend a couple of quiet hours doing one complicated thing for the same amount of money you spent 20 minutes earning when the customers are rolling in with loads of simple work. You kind of concern yourself more with your revenue per week than stressing out about the micro of minutes and hours. 

If i worked in a more private controlled setting, i don't know how much my attitude would change to that, Id still make how long a job was likely to take me a fundamental part of the equation as to how much id charge, but I'd still end up with some jobs being far more or less profitable than others, im sure. For one, you just can't ever reliably predict how much trouble something's going to give you. 

[transporter]

On 24/11/2017 at 9:35 PM, rogart63 said:

That 5 seconds indicate that it's time to change the battery. So there is no fault. I have one that fingers crossed never been serviced. I don't think it need to be  serviced that often. Gasket you can buy from cousinuk . Generic or original. The later will cost more. 

Cheers mate, it's the gaskets that are giving me the problem at the moment , cousins give 4 gaskets, the data sheets give 4 different types of case when I put in the model number, each gasket for the case back is only £10.35 so no big shakes there, but I would like to get the correct one first go.

On 25/11/2017 at 6:27 AM, jdm said:

If you wanted to do things properly, you should measure current draw as indicated in the service sheet, which is a direct indication of the efficiency of the stepper motor and train. But that requires either a super-expensive dedicated quartz testing equipment, or a reasonably expensive multi meter capable or reading low uA. In the ends it's just an expensive quartz watch, even if the mov.t will require replacement as some time, that will still cost less than 1hr of qualified work.

I,m going to go through the tech sheets and also ive been looking a multi meter which can measure low amperes, im getting a few quartz watches my way at the moment so something to test them with myself would be good to have at hand. Any recommendations for a multi meter??

17 hours ago, Ishima said:

From my perspective -- working on a watch repair branch -- I try and get a fair price per job but I make no attempt to make consistent money per hour for the branch, if for no other reason than it's futile to try.

Sometimes you spend a couple of quiet hours doing one complicated thing for the same amount of money you spent 20 minutes earning when the customers are rolling in with loads of simple work. You kind of concern yourself more with your revenue per week than stressing out about the micro of minutes and hours. 

If i worked in a more private controlled setting, i don't know how much my attitude would change to that, Id still make how long a job was likely to take me a fundamental part of the equation as to how much id charge, but I'd still end up with some jobs being far more or less profitable than others, im sure. For one, you just can't ever reliably predict how much trouble something's going to give you. 

Nice reply, and informative, I and no doubt others here can relate to your last line, ref you never know how much trouble one thing is going to give you, my last one like that was when I'd given a fixed price (cheap) to sort out a loose bezel on a rep rolex, it didn't have a click as it easy a friction fit, but bugger me that thing cost me a small fortune in time and money and hassle. As for prices it's a lottery I think sometimes, I had a Tissot touch in for a battery replacement and to fix a pusher that was stiff, got all that done no problems customer was chuffed as I charged £15 for work and parts, he told me that Tissot quoted him £100!!, yes I know they have overheads etc but that's a huge amount to pay with a minimum 3 week turnaround, I done that job and returned to customer the next day ( no wonder he was happy).

Anyway back to the question in hand, what gaskets do I get ie part numbers, mine is a stainless steel case and strap.

[jdm]

Just now, transporter said:

Cheers mate, it's the gaskets that are giving me the problem at the moment , cousins give 4 gaskets, the data sheets give 4 different types of case when I put in the model number, each gasket for the case back is only £10.35 so no big shakes there, but I would like to get the correct one first go.

"Only" 10.35 pounds !?! What a rip-off. Measure the case and order by size.

Just now, transporter said:

I,m going to go through the tech sheets and also ive been looking a multi meter which can measure low amperes, im getting a few quartz watches my way at the moment so something to test them with myself would be good to have at hand. Any recommendations for a multi meter??

You need to search for a model with low (µA) which is actually available in your market. It's not the type you buy at the hardware store, and can easily exceed $100. Then you have to make a fixture that holds the battery and has small wires with tiny clips to hook to the instrument to the mov.t . Not a lot of fun really, so for the time being I've passed on that.  

[Ishima]

For the record, I think you charged much too little for the T touch. I suggest you do some market research, you'll find the T touch £100 manufacturer alternative is the norm for anything complex, swiss, or expensive. It's your call but I really think you should adjust your pricing quite substantially and have confidence doing so.
For many reasons but consider that your customer was thrilled this time, the next customer will probably be downright suspicious and may not trust you to do it all and walk, so you're doing yourself no favors by being overly competitive with prices.

[transporter]

2 hours ago, Ishima said:

For the record, I think you charged much too little for the T touch. I suggest you do some market research, you'll find the T touch £100 manufacturer alternative is the norm for anything complex, swiss, or expensive. It's your call but I really think you should adjust your pricing quite substantially and have confidence doing so.
For many reasons but consider that your customer was thrilled this time, the next customer will probably be downright suspicious and may not trust you to do it all and walk, so you're doing yourself no favors by being overly competitive with prices.

Yes I know what you are saying but as im not qualified, im just a reasonably competent tinkerer I don't feel I should be charging too much, and also charging seems to be a very closed door subject.

[transporter]

Ok guys, ive gone through cousins and found a few part numbers, would anyone be anyone be to point me in the  right direction here.

I've a 2 piece case back, then a thick flat white gasket washer ( I believe this is the correct part numbe 098.21424 or 088NB1142 but I need confirmation on this)

Then there is a standard O ring , well it's a square gasket that I belive the part number to be  088NS0824 and finally the crown gasket 088NS0416,  can anyone confirm that I am correct please, otherwise it might be a session of returns to cousins, cheers guys