Jump to content

No Watch Should Be Killed...


Recommended Posts

This was my thought this morning at 02:00 AM when I was hacking an ETA 2412 from a Rotary to use its inner loins for a Hamilton 231. Its only fault: it wasn't a Hamilton. I was filled with remorse when taking the shiny keyless works parts to replace the sweat filled rusty ones from the Hamilton.

 

And because I was so ashamed, this morning I woke up with one thing in mind: replace the setting lever too!

 

So my question: How do you cut a setting lever to proper length?

 

Thank you,

Bogdan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good morning Bogdan.

It really depends how much you are going to have to remove. I would imagine a Dremel with small grindstone would be the order of the day if it just a small amount. If a significant amount has to be cut off, use a small cutting disk first, then grind the end to the correct profile with a grindstone before posting to a high finish.

I forgot to say, clamp the lever to a piece of wood before cutting with the disk.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Agreed - some kind of pendant motor (like a Dremel) and I would use a diamond disk - they are awesome at grinding and cutting.

 

As Geo said - be sure to hold the work steady as it will ping across the room.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I managed to get my hands on a Dremel but stopped there. The new setting lever doesn't fit the old crown (the thread has another step).

So I dropped the idea. I will put back the watch with the old lever.

But anyway, thank you for the advices!

Edited by matabog
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • But it also makes it seem less susceptible to gravity. If you place a droplet of oil on an epilame-treated surface the droplet of oil will still stay in place even if you then flip the surface from a horizontal to a vertical position. That is, the oil droplet remains anchored, and that's the purpose of epilame. If it was just a matter of creating an oleophobic surface we could probably use other, less expensive, methods!? I don't know @Waggy but my gut feeling tells me you're spot on (pun intended!). I believe the oleophobic property is a side effect of epilame which is designed to keep the oil anchored.
    • Saturday morning 27/4 Sunday evening 28/4 Monday evening 29/4 Floor has a drain in the middle so I am hoping that there is very little fall on it, if any. Room is about 2.5 x 2.5 metres square. Can only use about 1/2 of one wall on the right of the pictures which has a sliding glass door in it. And only about 3/4 of the wall to the left of the pictures as it has the door to the house in it. Progress. 🙂 
    • This makes much more sense now, the oil is withdrawing itself to make as little contact with the epilame as possible. Same principle as wax on a car creates a hyrophobic surface that makes the cohesive properties of water molecules pull together.  The water beads run off only when under the influence of gravity but still remain cohesively beaded up. And as mentioned earlier a pivot would keep the oil in place on a cap jewel.  Epilame on an escapement would be a different scenario, there is nothing to hold the oil in position if gravity tugs at the bead to move, plus the escape teeth pull the oil about Maybe this is why its suggested to run the watch for a short while to remove the epilame to make two oleophobic surfaces either side of the oil, creating a ring of fire 🔥 around it 😅 The oil is repelled by every surface of the epilame even that which it sits upon. So the oil pulls together to make as little contact with it as possible, but the oil cant float above that area, it can only sit there on top of it. Under gravity the oil could potentially run away as an oil bead, unless the epilame has an adhesive property which i dont think it does ? So something else keeps it in position ie a pivot under a cap jewel . But that isn't the case in a pallet jewel situation. 
    • As with every skill it watchmaking, it takes practice. Notice at the top of the document it says, "Practical work - 40 hours".  I can get the balance wheels 'close enough' to flat, but never seem to get them perfect. Same with gear wheels. Guess I need more practice.
    • Has it got a beat adjustment on the platform or is it a fixed hairspring? in short what you are looking at to get it just about in beat is to get the roller jewel sitting dead centre between the banking pins. So remove the platform and take of the pallet fork and escape wheel to give you clear line of site, sit the platform with the balance in place and with it level look between the banking pins and see if the roller jewel is sitting between them, if it is nice and central its there or there abouts in beat, if its not the the position of the pinned end of the hairspring needs to be adjusted to move the roller jewel into the correct position, thats why I asked if it has an adjustment on the platform or not, if it has its an easier job. 
×
×
  • Create New...