Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Does anyone know where i might get a diagram with the part no's for a Seiko 5m62-0bl0 case ,or the actual part?

i need the pendant tube insert not the crown seal but the insert that the seal then sits on , have asked over on SCWF and RLT , thought i'd try here to as not having a lot of luck so far.

 

Thanks guys

Edited by Andyclient
Posted
2 hours ago, Andyclient said:

Does anyone know where i might get a diagram with the part no's for a Seiko 5m62-0bl0 case ,or the actual part?

i need the pendant tube insert not the crown seal but the insert that the seal then sits on , have asked over on SCWF and RLT , thought i'd try here to as not having a lot of luck so far.

 

Thanks guys

I would measure & try Cousins who have really good selection of tubes.

  • Like 1
Posted
28 minutes ago, clockboy said:

I would measure & try Cousins who have really good selection of tubes.

Thanks CB but it's not the actual pendant tube its a nylon/plastic insert that fits into the pendant tube and holds the seal , I thought the crown gasket i ordered from Cousins would be the replacement but alas that was just the seal o ring.

I'm fabricating one from a biro refill at the moment but if i could get a case diagram i would hopefully be able to get the correct part

regards

Andy

Posted (edited)

If so that is the same as in some 7546 watches. Like the grey part that sits outside the gasket. Have one of those if you like? 

9477313994_01176e9319_c.jpg.2b87e8ce81098b97685638d79ae5ce17.jpg

Edited by rogart63
  • Like 1
Posted
38 minutes ago, ro63rto said:

You didn't say it was the nylon part on the other forum

Is this it?

4fe718edde2fdbb134b2090c96525a4c.jpg

Sent from my Honor 5c
 

Thats it brilliant , thanks so much ,most appreciated

 

32 minutes ago, rogart63 said:

If so that is the same as in some 7546 watches. Like the grey part that sits outside the gasket. Have one of those if you like? 

9477313994_01176e9319_c.jpg.2b87e8ce81098b97685638d79ae5ce17.jpg

Excellent thanks very much indeed, if you let me know how much and i can paypal you.

Thanks so much guys great help

Posted
14 minutes ago, Andyclient said:

Thats it brilliant , thanks so much ,most appreciated

 

Excellent thanks very much indeed, if you let me know how much and i can paypal you.

Thanks so much guys great help

Did find it but it's not in super condition. Maybe i can find some other one  It has a small mark because the thread for the crown was damaged. 

  • Like 1
Posted
3 minutes ago, rogart63 said:

Did find it but it's not in super condition. Maybe i can find some other one  It has a small mark because the thread for the crown was damaged. 

Thanks Rogart , I did have a look on Cousins but they are out of stock till the end of Sept

  • 4 weeks later...
  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Yep…This makes perfect sense. With that large a gap in the serial numbers, they were almost certainly machined on different equipment, hence one should have no expectation of any cross-batch compatibility. I’ll revert to the original bridge. Regarding bending the bridge @nevenbekriev, I’ll give it a try, but I may have to buy some better calipers. My Vernier calipers are only accurate to 0.1mm. Not very accurate. 
    • Yes, what I wanted to say is that the cock is part of the main plate, manufactured together with it and not meant to be interchangeable. Even if the other cock gets in place, it is not sure that the balance then will stay upright. You should use the original cock when it exists and is not destroyed. The adjustment needed by bending it is not irreversible. It is minimal deforming that is needed. No tools are needed. I have pointed to all needed references here for the balance staff endshake checking and correctness confirmation. The only tool needed for the correction is You thumb. The cock must be fixed on the main plate, no need of special plate with holes and so on. If You will feel more confident, then measure with Vernier caliper the height of the top of the cock where the stones are against the main plate bottom when the shim is fitted and try to reach the same height when bending the cock (with no balance in place!!!) Caliper with screw for fixing is perfect.    
    • Thanks for the reply. I polished the head of the screw using 1500 to 10000 lapping paper and a screw polisher. This is why I think the head blued and the rest of the screw didn't. Silly question, how do you polish the whole screw inc threads, if that's what it needs to blue? 100% clean, Elna red and heated ultrasonic bath + IPA rinse. Finally, there is definitely heat leak as there's about a 30c difference between the brass bed and the soldering station temp. Having said that, the bed temp was stable. I will try to search out a better brass pot, but I haven't found one yet, hence the stainless steel bowl. 
    • Agreed but that's where WD40 excels, water displacement. 
    • I would change the container to a thick walled brass one to start with. Looking at you screw pictures they don’t look shiny enough, really it’s best to do a black polish on them before trying. Also make sure once polished they are scrupulously clean, I dunk my experiments in acetone before bluing.   i think the thin walled stainless container to leach away the heat from the shavings, most successful bluing videos for example use thick walled brass to hold a good deep amount of shavings which acts as a better holder of heat.   Tom
×
×
  • Create New...