Jump to content

Hand Broaching Questions: Type and Second Hands


SethL

Recommended Posts

I've had enough trouble getting replacement watch hands to fit on some of my watches that I'm considering buying a set of broaching tools to help customize the fit. I have a couple of questions:

1) What is the right type of broach for hour and minute hands? I was planning on getting these: http://www.esslinger.com/broach-set-with-handle-set-of-6/ . Would they work? Are smoothing broaches preferred? Any other insights on proper tools for broaching hour and minute hands?

2) I also would like to broach second hands, especially because I have a few .22mm sub hands and those are harder to find than .20mm. I'm assuming I would need a "fine" set of broaches for that, something like http://www.esslinger.com/extra-fine-broach-set-set-of-12/ . But I believe broaching tools are tapered (a different diameter at the top than the bottom). This doesn't seem like a problem for hour and minute hands, but it seems like the pipe for second hands is long enough, that this would create a cone cut, where the bottom of the pipe may be too wide or the top too narrow. Related, I think you need to find the right spot on the broach to cut the right size and it seems like the opening at the top of a second hand pipe is smaller than the one at the bottom, which would prevent the broach from sliding through enough to find the right spot. Am I correct on this? Is broaching second hands possible? Any other insights on proper tools for broaching (sub) second hands?

Thanks much for any help!

Seth

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can only advise you with the type of broaches I used. I only ever used Bergeon there was not so many around in my days. There were two types 5 sided for cutting the other smooth. Smooth are used for burnishing the hole. Smooth are not needed for watch hands. You are correct about the pipe in a seconds hand, they are also a sod to adapt as quite often the pipe comes lose and turns while you try to broach the pipe out. The best way in overcoming this is to broach the pipe both ends.   A must is a tool that can hold the hand while you are working on it. The different sizes you need can also be put to good use as they can be used for re-bushing of a watch or pocket watches.

I hope this helps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 minutes ago, clockboy said:

You have to be very carful with hands as they can go out of shape. Also only remove tiny amounts of material at a time, I use Bergeon smoothing broaches. 

Do you find smoothing takes enough away to change the fitting? Also a drop of oil can help in the cutting.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, SethL said:

Thanks for the great feedback. Sounds like second hands are just tough. I'm definitely planning on getting a broaching holder as well. Will update with results once I get everything lined up.

Thanks again,

Seth

I just use a pin vice to hold the cutting broaches.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 6 years later...

When broaching second hands, it's important to take extra care and ensure that the broach is aligned properly with the pipe opening. You may need to experiment with different broach sizes or consider using files or other precision tools to modify the opening of the hand pipe if necessary. It's recommended to practice on less valuable or spare watch hands before working on valuable ones to gain experience and confidence in the broaching process.
If you need tools, I recommend a website that has various tools, https://www.moonzite.com. I often buy some of the tools I need from this site. The price is very cheap and the quality is very good.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I have read some suggestions that it can cause wear , particularly on the fork horns of a fully treated pallet fork. I've had half a kilo of steriac acid powder on a shelf for almost a year now, might have a little play today with a heater and a jar.  I think its because it gets into their cleaning solutions Mike. Theirs or anyone else's that services the watch next time, or if they need to strip back and rebuild. Could preclean but thats all time for a pro.
    • As I'm only cleaning watches in small numbers at home, I pre-clean any significant deposits of old grease and oil before using the cleaning solutions. I scrape off deposits with pegwood and Rodico, and if really dirty, wash parts in naphtha with a brush.  So I'm happy using DX, but can understand why it's avoided by the pros.
    • I think attaching a nut to the lid to pull it off is the least destructive, any damage damage on the outside is going to an easier fix than any created when trying to push it out from the inside. Scratching up the inside of the lid , mainspring or arbor bearing will be risk. Just my opinion.
    • yes the things we read in the universe I did see some where it was either difficult to clean off or it contaminated the cleaning fluid there was some issue with cleaning. I was trying to remember something about grease where as opposed to a substance of a specific consistency they were suggesting it had a base oil with something to thicken it. That conceivably could indicate that the two could separate and that would be an issue. But there is something else going on here that I had remembered so I have a link below and the description of the 9501 notice the word that I highlighted? Notice that word appears quite a bit on this particular page like 9415 has that property all so they 8200 mainspring grease and that definitely has to be mixed up when you go to use it because it definitely separates. just in case you didn't remember that nifty word there is a Wikipedia entry. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thixotropy   https://www.moebius-lubricants.ch/en/products/greases I wonder if what you're seeing is the boron nitride left behind after cleaning. In other words it's the high-pressure part of the grease and it's probably embedding itself into the metal which is why it doesn't clean off and shouldn't be a problem?
    • Yes and no. I use Moebius 9501 synthetic grease and it is significantly runnier than the Moebius 9504 synthetic grease (and I assume Molykote DX) that I previously used. I haven't seen 9504 spread and it is in my opinion the best grease money can buy. However, my current method of cleaning doesn't remove it from the parts, so that's why I have decided to use the 9501 instead. I believe I read somewhere that Molykote DX too is difficult to clean off. Thinking about it, I'm pretty sure my 9501 grease which expired in June 2022 is runnier now than it was when it was new, but whether new or old it always needs to be stirred before use. So, that's why I treat the parts of the keyless works, cannon pinion, etc. with epilame. That was very thoughtful of you and something that had completely passed me by. Not sure what the epilame will do when it wears off in a non-oiled hole. Anyone?
×
×
  • Create New...