A vintage Elgin 15/0, Gr 559. I took it down, cleaned and lubricated it and it is gaining 15 minutes/24 hours. I have looked at the HS, it appears to be perfect, clean, flat, not magnetized (de-magged the movement X 3 already), and in position between the regulator pins. Not hung on the center wheel. Correct mainspring, and balance is not knocking. I do not remember amplitude, but IIRC, it was above 22 which is O.K. by me with the movement. Please give me some ideas as to how to correct this. It doesn't seem like there are enough timing washers in the world to slow this down!
I'm really interested in finding out what main characteristics in a mechanical watch decide how much power reserve one can achieve. Can an existing watch be retro-fitted to enhance power reserve and is it recommended? I'm thinking does it impact on the other components in a watch?
one of my favorite watches is my IWC Flieger Chronograph (Ref 3777).
The only thing that annoyed me was, that it was almost 3s late every day. 15s or more in a week!
I know, this is complaining on the highest possible level. But still. If she would go 15s fast a week. Fine. But not late.
My Weishi Timegrapher 1900 showed it pretty clear. After quite some experience with movements I dared to open it! No way to take the movement out, just opening it. Wow, what a nice movement!
But regulating the balance proved to be a challenge:
There is a little screw (going from the left to the right) which is used for fine regulation. The only problem: the screw is obscured by the case. And the stud is extremely smooth moving. The first thing I did was bringing the balance out of center while pushing just a little bit too hard. I was totally relaxed, because it was easy to bring it back in the right position with the Timegrapher.
What is good about the 1900 model is that the two lines (tick and tack) are in different colors. When you push too hard the yellow line is above the green one (or vice versa) and you know, you went too far. The beat error itself does not change (e.g. turning negative). Very nice and helpful feature.
It took me quite a while to get everything in perfect condition. With dial down I had to regulate her 2s fast.
To make a long story short: in the morning she is spot on and in the evening she is 1s late (again!). But with crown down she is running 1s fast in 7h during the night. Spot on next morning!
BUT: Here is my question: The beat error is 0ms dial down but 3ms dial up. I have absolutely no explanation for that. I thought that the beat error should be the same no matter what position the watch is in. This was also the case before I regulated her.
I am looking forward to hear your explanation!
Thank you and Cheers
Beats the shit out of my 404 specials! Of all the "luxury" brands, Omega has a spot in my heart. Every ounce of "luxury" marketing turns me off hard, but for some inexplicable reason Omega gets a pass from that aversion.
When I buy/help buy cars for people, a lot of time they come to me thinking they want such and such a car, and just want validation. I would never buy a Prius, but if someone is dead set on it, the best case scenario is that I hurt their feelings telling them how the brakes are inconsistent and vague, the steering sucks, there's obviously no performance of any sort, and the same fuel economy can be had in myriad other, better cars. If they just want validation, the best I can do is validate them.
If you're seeking validation, it's a solid workhorse movement in an attractive case from a storied brand. Like others posting, I also feel there's a lot of the price tied up in marketing. While there can certainly be value in that that some may find hard to validate, it is value. I forget the exactitudes of the economic theory, but there's value in having a coveted good. If the value proposition for money works out to you, then it's a great watch for you, and you should pull the trigger if it makes you happy to do so (while also not pissing off any significant others maybe?).
What is it about the watch that you like exactly? Mayhap the same attributes exist in something without the brand premium. I've got a 2824-2 on my wrist right now in a case that I think is unique, has historic ties, from a (once) storied brand, and looks awesome with awesome functionality beyond what you typically find in a 2824-2 powered watch. I paid about a quarter the price of the Breitling new.