I was given a 1973 seiko lord matic (5600-9001) recently and I am very fond of it. The acrylic is in pretty good condition and the case isn't too scared up. There are only 3 problems with the watch. First, the case is a little bit dirty between the lugs. Second it gains about 15 seconds a day. Thirdly, the original bracelet is too small, so I tried to replace it and found that one of the spring bars is stuck. I don't really know what to do with the watch so I came here to get some advice. Should I take it to a local jeweler, send it to the seiko service center (probably a bad idea), or try to work on it myself? If there is anyone on the site that is able to work on the watch I would consider that as well.
I have acquired what I believe to be a WW II era wristwatch.
It was "made" (offered?) by Mulco. The movement is an FHF 150 (with sweep wheel/center seconds). The case is from "ID" (which is why I believe it to be WW II era).
Here is the face - still cased...
Here is the inside of the case back...
The dial side uncased...
And the back (uncased)...
I am not familiar with this movement at all. It's the first time I have seen an FHF. It's also the first time that I have seen (in person) a movement with a sweep wheel.
I have ordered the Bergeon/Presto puller for odd number spokes. I assume there is isn't anything too strange with these old center-second movements other than the sweep wheel (removal and replacement).
But would appreciate any info, cautions, warnings etc. that I might need if attempting to service myself. It's not a family heirloom or anything, but I don't want to kill a vintage movement.
Also curious about watch itself if anyone knows anything about the original Mulco company and it's watches.
Anyone know a supplier that would have orient watch parts. In general orient doesn’t supply parts I guess and it’s been hard to find on eBay. I have an EM60 repair. The crystal was damaged and whatever damaged it burned through and burnt the inner bezel and I cannot find a bezel with the same markings. Any help would be awesome.
Just finished a vintage build with correct working seconds at the six position. Hard to find a good reissue so I made my own with a aftermarket case and a dial made by me from scratch. logo is also my logo. Looks very professional maybe I could get some opinions from you guys. I have 25 more dials with different designs from single sub seconds to 2 and 3 eye chronographs. Its hard to find the cases I want. I guess I will settle with aftermarket cases for now and modify them.
I have a 50's/60's era Waltham men's wristwatch that needs some help.
It's in amazing (as-new) condition, but while wearing the other day, it stopped - even though there should have been plenty of power in the mainspring.
Disassembling for investigation quickly revealed the trouble. The screw-head from the ratchet wheel screw had broken off and found its way in to the train wheels and locked everything up.
There appears to be no other damage - thankfully. But now I want to fix the movement. My preference would be to find a barrel arbor and screw - or better yet a complete going barrel assembly new with ratchet wheel screw.
I am search eBay now - but thought I'd check with you guys to see if anyone knew of a good source for such parts. I haven't found any yet.
NOTE: This movement is Swiss made, 7 jewels, marking on the base plate look like Unitas 1690/02
Any info/help is greatly appreciated.
No I don't have a cleaner, but I do have a tooth bush. I'll give it a try, thanks. I would like to say that I will do everything possible, even snip the band and spring bar in half before I would pry it off, because it can ruin a watch case if it gets stuck in there.
Do you have an ultrasonic cleaner? It will usually vibrate off. If you dont have one try holding something that vibrates with a high frequency (any electric motor eg elec toothbrush) next to the case and see if it comes loose.
Sometimes a vintage watch will have no room to access the spring bar with a knife edge. And you have no choice but to pry the band off the watch. 99% of the time this is done without bad things happening. But you run the risk off the pin breaking off flush in the case lug hole and it is almost impossible to get out. Does anyone have a neat trick to remove it from the case lug hole?