Jump to content

Back In The Groove With A 1940S Actua And A 1952 Elgin Clubman


WillFly

Recommended Posts

Well, it doesn't take long for me to go a-hunting for those lovely old dials and movements. Here's a couple I picked up recently. The first one's an Actua - typical 1940s watch and a very similar dial to my 1940 WW2 Unitas. It was as cheap as chips on the Bay - £16 to buy - and that just shows you the watch snobbery of people who go purely on brand. This is a solid brass case - which I've since cleaned up with a silver cloth since photographing it - and, more importantly, it's another one with a solid ETA 1100 movement (as used in Atlantic watches and early Breitlings). Great value! I've cut the old, gunged strap off and have ordered a leather replacement from Amazon.

 

post-64-0-89292800-1403258143_thumb.jpg

post-64-0-10495600-1403258158_thumb.jpg

 

This one is a lovely 1952 US Elgin Lord Elgin "Clubman" with a great dial and a quality Grade 680 movement. Not cheap as chips... but a superb watch.

 

post-64-0-11727700-1403258182_thumb.jpg

post-64-0-92710700-1403258197_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The Lord Elgin is interesting as it has a cap on the pallet jewel as well as the escape wheel. Signs of quality.

 

The curve of the barrel bridge is another aesthetic aspect of the watch that I love.

 

Anil

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Will, you are relentless!

I do like the look of the "Lord Elgin". What I do find interesting is the older watch has a shock resistant balance and the newer one doesn't.

 

I suspect that the Elgin movement - though made in 1952 - is actually a much older design, and US factories didn't always use incabloc shock resistance. Which is why, if you drop a lovely old Hamilton railroad watch, for example, the balance can get damaged.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Those are nice !!

I always hesitate so much when looking at the bay, that I never get anything (and cash is a precious thing these days)... And I have to say that anything that looks like water damage, or rust, is something I try to stay away from....

A couple more disassembly/assemblies and I'll be on a serious hunt for wearable watch !

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Right now I'm making do with a similar micrometer (the one below is $45 shipped but you can find better deals) and a $20 stand. You do have to be excruciatingly careful measuring jewels, since there's no table, but if you don't have the $500 to throw around, it's a nice option.
    • As  I kid, I'd watch Godzilla stomping over buildings and cars and I'd think to myself: Tokyo is a really dangerous place to live... . Cool watch!!
    • Next one up an AS 554, looks like a bit more to this one. First job is to check thickness, most springs are somewhere between .3 and .4, this one measures .35, that matches in with the .4 spring steel i ordered. So for marking up a permanent marker comes in handy to colour up the steel to be marked later with a scriber once its dry. Bestfit provide the extra bit of info for the jumper spring that is missing.
    • Thanks again, Marc.  Super helpful. I was wondering what the hole was for, and now it makes perfect sense. With your help and the other members here, it looks like I'm good to go with my Seitz tool set. I had to order some replacement pushers, but with those, the set is complete and in good condition. Now, I need to figure out what tool to buy to measure jewels (amongst other watch-related parts). I had my eye on the JKA Feintaster micrometers, but people get crazy bidding on them for $400-600 USD. I was thinking of just a regular digital micrometer (Mitutoyo). Thoughts?  Mahalo. Frank      
    • Yep, that's exactly how it should fit. The reamer shank is tapered and the socket in the spindle is also tapered so that the one centers in the other and is gripped tightly. If there is any wobble when the reamer is seated as far it will go then there is a problem. The cross hole in the spindle is to allow you the push the reamer back out again. If the reamer seated much deeper then it would limit the access for pushing it back out again. Here is one of mine for comparison.
×
×
  • Create New...