Jump to content

[Vintage Chronograph] Is this watch destined for the graveyard?


Recommended Posts

Hello! 

Images attached!

As you see, I have here a 1950-1960's Chronograph using a Landeron 149 movement. Firstly, the good:

The watch keeps good time. It winds up fine. It changes time fine. No problems there at all.

That's where it ends really.

The bad:

* The springbars - they are completely stuck. I cannot for love or money get them to budge. As you can see in the album, I am also concerned that they have been glued in. You might be able to see on the lugs there appears to be some cracking, I am worried that if attempt to remove the springbars any further, the lugs will simply crack and break. Does that seem like something that could happen?

* The caseback - You may be able to see, but it seems to not sit flush to the watch case. I think it has been threaded. How easy is this to resolve? or is this a major problem?

* The chrono function - Hey, guess what, it works...(sometimes!!). The chronograph function works 8/10. I press the top button, and it may or may not start the ticking function. Most of the time it does. It resets on the lower button just fine, regardless of whether the ticker goes or not. 

My overall question is, how beat up is this old boy? I am expecting a big price to get it back to former glory, but I am unsure just how much, if even doable. 

Be great to hear your thoughts on this guys!

RZrI1p9.jpg

0dswb6t.jpg

lgjMjqz.jpg

sMSJ22s.jpg

Skl6gTK.jpg

y1cab68.jpg

JcI1mOH.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

21 minutes ago, VeracityFirst said:

* The springbars - they are completely stuck. I cannot for love or money get them to budge. As you can see in the album, I am also concerned that they have been glued in. You might be able to see on the lugs there appears to be some cracking, I am worried that if attempt to remove the springbars any further, the lugs will simply crack and break. Does that seem like something that could happen?
 

I have actually cut spring bars, (in the center with a side cutter) that were too crusty to budge using conventional methods. Looks like the one lug is worn clear through, probably why it was glued, too bad.

 

23 minutes ago, VeracityFirst said:

* The caseback - You may be able to see, but it seems to not sit flush to the watch case. I think it has been threaded. How easy is this to resolve? or is this a major problem?
 

If it has been cross threaded as it appears, your case is probably toast, trying and or paying to have rethreaded might not be worth the expense. Another case perhaps? Or best case scenario the back is only threaded on one or two turns.

 

25 minutes ago, VeracityFirst said:

Chronograph using a Landeron 149 movement

How do you know it's a Landeron? I'm not trying to be a wise guy, just curious, from the dial/manufacturer?

 

28 minutes ago, VeracityFirst said:

My overall question is, how beat up is this old boy? I am expecting a big price to get it back to former glory, but I am unsure just how much, if even doable. 

Anything is doable, given the depth of your pockets, I think it might be worth your while, (to find a case) but that's just me, I'm sure you'll get some sound advise here or perhaps even a lead on a new case. The fact that it is running and has partial chrono function is half the battle. Don't just take my word, there are folks here who have forgotten more than I'll ever know!:startle:

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

First things first, welcome to the forum.

Your watch watch is well worth restoration.  

I suspect the spring bars are the female type, these are designed to fit over little stubs permanently fitted to the case, unlike normal ones that fit into holes in the case.

The gap between the back and the case looks like it is caused by a gasket that is too thick.

A good service should cure the chronograph issues.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the information so far chaps. I am planning to visit a watchmaker, but I wanted to get 'clued up' before I did.

How do I know it's a Landeron 149? Truth be told, I don't. The seller has informed me it is, but I cannot (and don;t want to right now) open the case back to check.

He did send me images of the movement, which shows the internals - here they are. What do they say to you? I am quite the newbie to this.

 

12_f.jpg

17_f.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Landeron made several iterations of wind up chronos, l looked at some pics on Ranfft, His example is of a 149 is a French Wakmann but I ran out of time online sorry, have to finish something more pressing.

His comments on the 149 were: "1937-1970, >3.500.000 (all derivatives based on Landeron 48)
There were various chrono mechanisms. And as their parts often were interchangable, occasionally series were produced with parts of different calibres."

 

As Geo said, "Welcome"!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, WileyDave said:

Landeron made several iterations of wind up chronos, l looked at some pics on Ranfft, His example is of a 149 is a French Wakmann but I ran out of time online sorry, have to finish something more pressing.

His comments on the 149 were: "1937-1970, >3.500.000 (all derivatives based on Landeron 48)
There were various chrono mechanisms. And as their parts often were interchangable, occasionally series were produced with parts of different calibres."

 

As Geo said, "Welcome"!

Thank you - i've checked out that website you mentioned it looks the same to my untrained eye. Any further comments would be really appreciated. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In my opinion any chronograph is worth restoration provided the dial is in good shape and all the parts are there (and not rusted through).

I agree with Geo on his assessment of the caseback- it looks like the gasket may be too thick.  

Cutting the springbars off is a good idea that I hadn't considered.  I've dealt with many stuck parts in the past and have found that a soak in mild acid (such as vinegar) or hot soapy water followed by a short ultrasonic bath does wonders.  One does have to consider what this would do to the plating before proceeding however.

Good luck with the piece.  It's quite a good looking chrono.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would be tempted to source a new case for the watch, its a good example of why plated cases are best avoided, the plating wears on the edges and sharp corners allowing the ingress of sweat from wearing this over time eats away at the brass underneath, looking side on from the crown side I think the badly fitting case back is a symptom of this as the edged of the case appears badly worn, I dont think the case could be improved greatly.

New old stock cases turn up quite regular on Ebay but most sellers want silly money the link below has a site in switzerland that gets quite a few new old stock cases, at reasonable prices

http://swisswatches-andmore.com/shop/index.php

If you do get a replacement case make sure its stainless not gold plated.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Welcome to the forum VF. That is a beautiful movement I certainly would fix. Good wisdom in the previous posts too. The case you propose in the link might or might not work. Check the movement specs and also check with the seller...chronometer cases come in many dimensions and shapes (distribution and location of pushers, etc) considering the many options made.

Cheers,

Bob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 hours ago, VeracityFirst said:

Thanks for the information so far chaps. I am planning to visit a watchmaker, but I wanted to get 'clued up' before I did.

How do I know it's a Landeron 149? Truth be told, I don't. The seller has informed me it is, but I cannot (and don;t want to right now) open the case back to check.

He did send me images of the movement, which shows the internals - here they are. What do they say to you? I am quite the newbie to this.

 

12_f.jpg

17_f.jpg

I can clearly see the numbers "49" in first pic, next to the balance cock. Also I noticed the case seems to be awfully thin around the crown and chrono buttons, perhaps this is why the gasket looked to be too big as Geo mentioned.  As far as the case you located, I'd ask your watchmaker, he should be able to advise based on movement/case measurements. I won't hazard a guess on $$$ for service or restoration, good luck and let us know what happens.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good evening gents!

i am back from having discussions with no less than four watchmakers I know of. One I use regularly. As promised, I wanted to update you!

they are all confident of repair. Diagnosis is good for the movement, each saying it of course needs a clean and some fixing up. This is booked in, costing me £250, or around $330 - including required replacement parts. 

The case: its eroded as many of you identified. There is a mixed response on this issue, some said they can repair it, others said they need to source a new one. I am opting for the new one, and will do so after the movement repair. £30-£70 for this.

The springbars are ruined. There isn't any glue, all agreed it was simply age and poor attempts to remove throughout its history. The lugs are close to breaking, they all know a specialists who can repair them. But it is cheaper for a new case. If I fail to source one, then I'll explore this avenue.

They all confirmed it is indeed a Landeron 149 movement. Phew. 

All in all, this will cost me around £350-£500. I am staging out these costs.

Thanks for your help everyone, you've been so great! I'll update you all in the next few months!

VF

 

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • @dibs1 Hopefully you see this and post an update. @Knebo Would you happen to know what is the end-shake tolerance for a cal 15xx rotor or is there such a metric? Also, is there a specified height of the rotor?   I got the watch serviced which addressed the rotor grinding against the base plate and case back (i have checked by moving the watch in a circular motion to spin the rotor and have tested it dial up and down) however whenever the watch is shaken lightly the rotor touches the caseback and makes a ding. What is unusual is that is only happens when the rotor is resting at the 9'o clock position. The axle was replaced and reading around it seems that  spring clip, jewel and axel are the three parts that individually or together are causing this issue.
    • Yes, barrel size.  A 11mm spring will push out into a 11mm barrel, no need to go 0.5mm smaller. 
    • Hello All, I’m looking for advice about how to interpret the mainspring specs described in the GR documents and in the catalogues of online sellers such as cousins.  My problem relates to interpreting the value describing barrel size - I’m unsure what the last number REALLY refers to.   For example: 1.10x.0105x360x11  (This refers to GR2628-X) Does the “ 11 “ here refer to the barrel inside diameter of the calibre OR to the diameter of the wound mainspring before insertion? For example if my measured barrel inside diameter to 11mm, I would normally select a wound spring size a little smaller, say 10.5, wouldn’t I?  Or, does the barrel diameter described in the catalogue specifications take that into account and I would therefore order a catalogue size 11 for an 11mm barrel ID? Hope this makes sense. I can’t find clarification of this anywhere. Many thanks for any enlightenment. Cheers, John
    • Let's say, like in a watch, you have  a 70 tooth 4th wheel, which needs to make a turn in one minute, with an 18,000 beat escapement. 15 tooth escape wheel as usual, and a 7 tooth pinion on it.   70 x 15 x 2 /  = 300  That's 300 beats, and there are 5 beats per second, so divide and you get 60s, one minute- all is well. If we do 70 x 15 x 2 / 8 that equals 262.5. With an 18K balance, which will let the escape wheel move one turn in 6 seconds, the 4th wheel will have made like 1.14 turns. So the time display is running fast. But this comes to like 7.5 seconds over per minute, which is about double your gain (maybe I'm wrong- I'm mathing on my phone while writing on my phone 😄) but pretty sure the gain is more than you are observing.   A possible culprit is that crown/4th wheel isn't running true, and a tooth is slipping past a pinion leaf once per revolution. I've seen this. If the platform is original and it's a nice piece they are often pinned, so the depthing isn't an issue. If the platform isn't pinned, check the depthing. And at any rate check the crown wheel between centeres and make sure the teeth are running true.
    • Fast responses - thank you. Yes, I mentioned the 18000bph to illustrate that it's not a matter of touching coils, over banking, shortened hairspring etc. I even took off the platform and temporarily fitted a another NOS one also with 8 leaves and beating 18000 but the colossal gain is the same. I'm resigned to buying and fitting a new Gorge platform plus a 7 leaf pinion escape wheel but only if I think it will work; otherwise it's a waste of £200 and a couple of hours work. Hence the underlying question is: all other things being equal, what would the timekeeping effect be? Is it a simple 7/8ths as fast? Logic tells me it is but can it be that linear?
×
×
  • Create New...