Jump to content

Help resizing stretch wristband


Recommended Posts

Bend the tab over until flat on the upper side of bracelet link with strong flat blade, that will expose two tiny staple like pins, (connecting the links) bend bottom one to release the ones holding bottom, size accordingly, (you will have to repeat process on link(s) end to be removed), bending them back is a bit of a trick, seems like you never get them back the way they looked before you start. Good luck!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

...and the first time you do it you might scratch things a little if not careful...in the end they are all sort of "all the same". Once you do one you'll be an expert!! Good luck!

Cheers,

Bob

PS. Of course, I trained on an old rusty one, made a little different, maybe that's why I couldn't find the "U" clip right away: some have them under one of the "retaining" lips, -- not as easy as in the video -- so there is a bending and unbending thing to do on those....some others are just straight forward and exactly as in the video. :)

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

...and the first time you do it you might scratch things a little if not careful...in the end they are all sort of "all the same". Once you do one you'll be an expert!! Good luck!

Cheers,

Bob

PS. Of course, I trained on an old rusty one, made a little different, maybe that's why I couldn't find the "U" clip right away: some have them under one of the "retaining" lips, -- not as easy as in the video -- so there is a bending and unbending thing to do on those....some others are just straight forward and exactly as in the video. [emoji4]

 

Thanks bob, it's for an old friend, I'll give it a shot.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If this is just a one off adjustment go with what people are saying, but if you're likely to do more, i'd suggest learning to remove the plate that covers the outside on both points your adjusting, (stretch the bracelet open looking at the back of the bracelet, you should see it secured by 2-4 little arms of metal that can be bent back which secure the front plate, then they can be pushed back down when you're done) it's sort of more work, as in more steps, but I feel like it ultimately makes the job easier and you risk less cosmetic damage.

 

Edited by Ishima
formatting
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • £4.04 originally worked out to $5, or thereabouts accounting for currency fluctuations. Inflation calculator from 2020 (when the thread was started, though not when Andy coined the term) says we're looking at $6 currently. What currency is the 6.99 inflation adjusted figure cited in the poll? $6 may still seem restrictive, but don't forget that's part of the point. It's a challenge. Thrill of the hunt and all. Diamonds in the rough. Also, and my personal angle on the game, a fun and inexpensive way to learn watchmaking skills.
    • Dear all My first experience servicing a quartz watch after servicing as an hobby my mechanic watches for many years. This is an old Certina that was given to me by a friend, with  a ETA/ESA 9362 movement. Before service I put a new battery and the watch was working. After servicing the movement stopped working. i understand that there might be a lot of reasons for this (including the fact that I used technics and oils from mechanic movements on this one  ), but at this stage I would only need to check if the electronic module is good. Don't have a quartz tester but only a multimeter. You will see on the photos that the battery contact is broken and needs soldering. With the battery in the movement I can confirm that the electronic module had power (1.57v). Question: what basic tests can I do with a multimeter to confirm that the electronic module is good? how to check if the coil is good and if there is pulse in the electronic module? what contacts should I use to test it? (I saw some videos on you tube but was not able to find the specific test procedures for the ETA 9362). Any information to help me check if the reason for the movement to stop is on the electronic or mechanic part of the watch is much appreciated. Many thanks
    • Dear all My first experience servicing a quartz watch after servicing as an hobby my mechanic watches for many years. This is an old Certina that was given to me by a friend, with  a ETA/ESA 9362 movement. Before service I put a new battery and the watch was working. After servicing the movement stopped working. i understand that there might be a lot of reasons for this (including the fact that I used technics and oils from mechanic movements on this one 😞 ), but at this stage I would only need to check if the electronic module is good. Don't have a quartz tester but only a multimeter. You will see on the photos that the battery contact is broken and needs soldering. With the battery in the movement I can confirm that the electronic module had power (1.57v). Question: what basic tests can I do with a multimeter to confirm that the electronic module is good? how to check if the coil is good and if there is pulse in the electronic module? what contacts should I use to test it? (I saw some videos on you tube but was not able to find the specific test procedures for the ETA 9362). Any information to help me check if the reason for the movement to stop is on the electronic or mechanic part of the watch is much appreciated. Many thanks    
    • I have bought without seeing inside before and have generally been luck Michael. If its a screwback case i seem to allow some leniency on the removal of it, i dont know why because I've never struggled to remove a back with very basic equipment.   If everything is inside them, then once restored and keeping time the oris could be worth 20 -30 each, I've paid a lot more Oris date pointers in the past.
    • I use a nylon bristle from a brush to run around the coils or a thin piece of copper wire, you need .1 - .15mm.
×
×
  • Create New...