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Posted

Hi my name is Jeremy. I'm new to this and already addicted. My fascination with watches started with my grandfather. I never got to meet him but he gave my father a Seiko 17j automatic. He told my dad to give it to me when I turned eighteen. My dad told me it didn't need batteries, it was an automatic. I was hooked. 

As a kid I always like to take things apart but never seemed to put them back together. 

Two years ago I purchased a bucherer chronometer. I didn't know much about them but knew what I found was nice especially for 40 us dollars. I took it to a jeweler and asked him how much it would be for a cleaning. He said six hundred dollars. That it was a similar movement as Rolex. My mind was blown.

Last year I saved some money and was going to buy a Rolex. 

The more I thought about it the more didn't want to be like everyone else I wanted something different. I wanted to eventually build my own from parts.

Now I have a bunch of tools,a watch bench, and an ultrasonic cleaner and a zenith watch cleaning machine. I don't have a watch lathe, or a bushing machine but plan on getting those next.

I use to be addicted to prescription pills they almost ruined my life. Now I'm addicted to watches and working on them. I feel so calm when I work with such small parts and when I put them all together and there is life, it makes me feel alive. I also love the history and story behind every watch. Thank you all. Jeremy.

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Posted

Hello from me. You will find a lot of useful info on here. You mention a bushing machine  if you mean one of those for rebushing clocks don't waste your money on such a tool, there's a far better way to rebush clocks.

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Posted

Welcome Jeremy! I think you are in a very special location: the land of ofrei.com! I wish I was close and not have to pay shipping...I order a lot from them. In any case, I enjoyed the picture of your watches, very nice!

Cheers,

Bob

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    • Welcome to the forum, enjoy. 
    • Yes, the specific old tools do exist, but may be having one is not needed as they are not cheap, and also You will be able to do without it well enough. My advice will be to use regular depthing tool and adjust it for the exact distance between pallet fork and escape wheel bearings from the watch. Then remove the shellac from the pallet that now doesn't pass the ew teeth and move this pallet in. Then put the pallet fork and ew on the depthing tool and check how they lock. They should not lock when the pallet is in, but You will little by little move the pallet out and locking will appear. Then move just an idea out for reliable work and apply shellac, then check if things are still the same. You have to observe where the teeth fall on the pallets - it must be just a little below the edge between impulse and rest planes. Then You must check how everything behaves in the movement This Potence tool is so ingenious, but actually, the traditional way to do the things is much more simple. Arrange the parts not on the pillar plate, but on the cover plate. Only the central wheel will remain on the pillar plate, secured by the cannon pinion.
    • There is a tool that was made for setting up and adjusting escapements of full plate watches.  There were two styles, the picture below shows both of them.  The lower tool held a movement plate and the vertical pointed rods were adjusted to hold the unsupported pivots of the lever and escape wheel.  There was also a version of this tool that had 3 adjustable safety centres so that the balance pivot could be supported by the tool :  The other version I’m aware of is the Boynton’s Escapement Matching and Examining Tool came as a set of two or three clamps that gripped the watch plate and held the safety centres for the pivots : These do turn up on eBay from time to time.  For some escapement work, you can set up the parts in a regular depthing tool, with the centres set according to the distance between the corresponding pivot holes on the movement.  I hope this helps, Mark
    • Once you are aware of the problem, you can adjust as necessary. I have a couple of the Omega 10xx, and they are not my favourites. They seem a bit flimsy and not as solid as previous generation Omega. But I think that's true of a lot of movements from the 70-80s. For me, the 50-60s is the peak in watch movements, where the design criteria was quality, not saving the last penny.
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