Jump to content

Open up mainspringbarrel


Recommended Posts

Hello!

New to this forum and this is first post :)

I am doing a service of an AS 2063 movement and hit a little snag regarding the mainspring barrel. I have never been able to open these types of barrels gracefully, always leaving marks which annoys me, so i thought to ask people with more experience than me :)

So what is the secret to open these? I want to open it to replace the spring and clean it, seem like the previous owner thought it could be repaired with WD40 :), literally the whole watch is soaked in it!

IMG_1869_1.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had a similar issue on an AS5008. I was discussing with a Rolex watchmaker at a recent lecture and he had a great suggestion.

Take a regular razor blade and grind the edge to a taper. So you are forming the edge into a fine taper. Turn the barrel on edge and place on your bench - like a wheel on a car. Insert the narrow edge of the blade and push the barrel along like a wheel - thus driving the wedge into the barrel and separating it. I have yet to try this but it sounds great!

Please let us know if you do try and how it works out.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's the same as with some Seiko barrels. Use a breakable knife to open them. Some little mark there always will be? But it works very nice? 

WD40 in watches is a killer? 

Welcome to the forum BTW 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 minutes ago, rogart63 said:

It's the same as with some Seiko barrels. Use a breakable knife to open them. Some little mark there always will be? But it works very nice? 

WD40 in watches is a killer? 

Welcome to the forum BTW 

The Seiko barrel is just annoying :) i think they want you to buy a new complete barrel and not service the old.

WD40 is indeed a killer, the date disc on this watch have been in oil for probably quite some time and all the numbers are loose :( so i have to get a new one

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just a note..these type of barrels have the lid holding on to the barrel ( as opposed to the barrel holding the lid) . You need to ensure the lid comes off level, if you distort the edge it may not go back tightly enough.

HTH

Anil

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Working just now on a Seiko 7625 . Same type. Used a breakable knife . Not to clean inside there? Clean it i Naptha before i remove the spring. Doesn't get so dirty fingers then? DSC06681.JPGDSC06682.JPGDSC06683.JPG

Look at this mess. DSC06684.JPG 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 minutes ago, rogart63 said:

Working just now on a Seiko 7625 . Same type. Used a breakable knife . Not to clean inside there? Clean it i Naptha before i remove the spring. Doesn't get so dirty fingers then? 

Look at this mess. 

Seiko uses graphite loaded lubricant (and you should also) there. That's the residue, perfectly normal.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, jdm said:

Seiko uses graphite loaded lubricant (and you should also) there. That's the residue, perfectly normal.

I clean it out and use normal 8200 and 8217 grease. Has worked fine? It doesn't dry out like Seiko graphite. D5 for the where barrell arbor goes out . 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just now, rogart63 said:

I clean it out and use normal 8200 and 8217 grease. Has worked fine? It doesn't dry out like Seiko graphite. D5 for the where barrell arbor goes out . 

I recommend 8301 with graphite, which is the most similar to Seiko S4. On the spot anything works well, to see the real results we should check it again ins 30 yrs. Barrel harbor should use HP1300. I understand that D5 is natural oil with a shorter life.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 minutes ago, jdm said:

I recommend 8301 with graphite, which is the most similar to Seiko S4. On the spot anything works well, to see the real results we should check it again ins 30 yrs. Barrel harbor should use HP1300. I understand that D5 is natural oil with a shorter life.

Not bad choice . I will order a bottle next time. HP1300 maybe i have some t? But has so  much D5 left that i will use a little more before its to old: 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, jdm said:

I recommend 8301 with graphite, which is the most similar to Seiko S4. On the spot anything works well, to see the real results we should check it again ins 30 yrs. Barrel harbor should use HP1300. I understand that D5 is natural oil with a shorter life.

I have a bottle of moebius 8201 for the barrel wall, but should i get an 8301 instead?

There are so many suggestions on lubrication on the barrel wall that ill go mad :) what to use?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It is a controversial subject within the horology community. Recently I changed from using D5 to HP1300 & I am impressed as it seems to stay where put & being red the amount applied is very visible. I have used 8201 for a while now with no issues so will continue to use.

I note that 8301 is for "This is a solid grease particularly for winding mechanisms and springs & slip springs. This grease has a wide range of applications. Same as 8300 but with graphite."

No mention of barrels so I will stick with the tried & tested 8201

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Here are the pics of the bridge. Looks correct, but as soon as I screw on the rotor, the watch stops. Video here: https://1drv.ms/v/s!ArG5E62RGctxjokY5ws85BzuJLVakA   Pics. Might have figured it out. I have been working on this watch for a while and since I got it as a non runner in a terrible shape, there was no guarantee that parts were proper. I think the main screw that was used on the rotor was too long, so it was stopping the main train. As soon as I fished out a much shorter and larger headed screw, things were good again. Please celebrate with me.  
    • One-dip or naphtha should be safe, but are you sure it isn't magnetized?  I would also check that.  Although, if that balance is from an Elgin 760 0r 761, I would think it would have a hairspring of non-magnetic alloy.
    • Hi, Is there a spell check function available when you are posting ? Regards CJ
    • Hi John I just did a Seiko Lord-Matic a front loader without a split stem, I used a crystal lift to remove it, although I had to have it that tight I though I was going to break the lift before the crystal would budge. So I decided that the press would be a better option as I think crystals with tension rings resist a lot of compressing. I used a crystal press to repalce it and the bezel with no issues, obviuosly a different watch to the Omega. I just took my time and kept inspecting the installation progress bit by bit Regards CJ
    • Hello All, I’m replacing the crystal in an Omega Dynamic, # 165.039, which houses a cal 552, installed through the front of the case. The replacement Sterncreuz crystal is, like the original, with tension ring. I removed the crystal using a compressed air technique to pop it out.  (I have a crystal lift, but I’m always fearful of marking the crystal edges and so avoid using it as much as possible). Now to the replacement -  any tips on putting the crystal back in?  Am I obliged to using my dreaded crystal lift to complete the task, or how about a crystal press?  I’ve put lots of crystals in using a press, but never with the movement in the watch. The thought of using one with a front-loader makes me very nervous, with the fully assembled watch sitting under the press. How would more experienced folks proceed here? Any advice, gratefully received… John Down Under…
×
×
  • Create New...