Jump to content

Rolex Question


Recommended Posts

Hi, i wonder if anyone can answer me this regarding a rolex sweep hand.

I replaced the sweep hand on a rolex watch for a customer a while back, and the watch was brought back because it came off again. I advised the customer the hands will probably need to be replaced, So i put the hand back on again, no charge, his wife came to collect it and surprise surprise, when she got home the hand had come off again!

Now this customer has decided i charged him for something i havent done and is now threatening to take me to court etc etc etc

He now says he took it to an independent rolex cerified repairer who has told him ive caused damage because i push fitted the hands, which i did, with a regular hand push fit tool. They also say i failed to replace some sort of locking pin to keep the hand in position.

Can anyone tell me, have i done anything wrong here? is there such a locking pin?? any advice would be much appreciated.

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Paul, that's no good to hear and suspect the authorised dealer won't praise any of your work....the only suggestion I have is that the hole diameter has slightly increased and may need crimping down. I've recently started collecting Omegas with the 1010-30 movements , they have a small clip which holds the seconds hand stem in place, when fitting the seconds hand it needs to be supported from underneath or its dislodges the stem. The stem diameter is .15mm on this particular model and have slightly crimped the underside of the hand before fitting as they can fall off. Not convinced at all that you have caused a problem by fitting the hands by hand.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Ash, yeh i know about the clip on the Omega, i haven't really done a great deal of Rolex, which i why i've asked the question. Thanks for your input. I really want to find the movement calibre now so i can check better! 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would be curious too about the "locking ping". We have some expert members here that can clarify and if  it's proven that no such thing exists, you can give the evidence to the complainer and entourage him to go to court if so he wishes.

That being said, small diameter hands tubes can be a problem. Have the same issue with a chrono and didn't got an answer about a definitive solution yet.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 minutes ago, ash145 said:

Jdm, if you can turn the hand over and slightly crimp the tube it should create enough resistance to hold the hand in place. Tweezers are adequate

I think the idea is to do that with a suitable needle in the tube, to avoid crushing it.

I believed that a professional watchmaker did that already. But the second chrono hand still moves when pressing the reset button.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Stuff like this just disgusts me from big manufacturers, I like to think most of us in the trade would think twice before blaming someone else in the trade for damages, it's sort of an unwritten code of ethics (or well, it is actually a written code if you read donald de carle) 

you can never be certain that someone has done something wrong, or if they have what the full context is, so to start pointing fingers is irresponsible, unprofessional and unethical. All you should do is offer your own services and stand by your results. Because what you ultimately risk is a back and forth with the customer acting as a frustrated carrier pigeon, facilitating a squabble...

But when you're a big swiss manufacturer nothing like that seems to matter anymore, you can say what you like, blame watchmakers blithely with false certainty and even tell customers that their watch is faulty and the dial is damaged even when there's not a spec of evidence to suggest that. 
(I'm not making that up, I've had customers come in with swiss watches needing only a battery replacement and resealing being quoted several hundred pounds for a complete re build when the watch was pristine and faultless)  

You're probably blameless, my advice: Offer the money he paid back to him, try to explain again to him as best you can the nature of the fault, stress that you're a watch repairer, and the people operating the counters and phones at Rolex are not. Offer a sincere apology for his troubles and hopefully he'll back off with the legal threats. 

Edited by Ishima
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Also, i forgot to say, stress that's it's a repeat of the very same issue that caused them to bring the watch to you in the first place, an issue that arised before you ever set your hands on it. 

So if a damaged locking pin is the cause of the problem, how could you have possibly broken it BEFORE having ever touched it.

Edited by Ishima
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • It looks like the canon pinion function is part of this great wheel. The pinion nearest the clip runs the minute wheel on the dual side. The pinion nearest the wheel is driven by a small wheel from under the setting lever cover plate that engages in hand setting position.    So when assembled the crown was driving the whole great train. Does this mean the pinions are too tight? Should I attempt to disassemble this great wheel and lubricants?
    • Picking up this side-tracked post again as I just removed a balance staff of a 1920's Omega (35,5L-T1) I was impressed by the way @Delgetti had his setup when he had to change out a balance-staff (https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/28854-new-balance-staff-not-riveting-to-balance/page/2/#comment-244054 Not only that, but also the idea of removing the seat first before punching the staff out from the seat-side, avoiding the whole discussion of the rivet yes/no enlarging the hole. I didn't have the fancy clamps & tools Delgetti has, so I used my screw-head polishing tool. Initially I used #1500 grit diamond paste on the steel wheel, which kinda worked, but very slow. I changed to #800 grit diamond paste, which worked better, but still slow. Then I glued #240 sanding paper to the steel disk; That worked and the disk was hand-driven. Once close to the balance wheel, I took the sanding paper off and continued with #800 diamond paste. One can only do this when the balance wheel sits true on the staff and has no "wobble". I went on grinding until I saw some diamond paste on the rim of the balance wheel. This was as far as I could grind and it seemed that there wasn't much left of the seat. Carefully, with my staking set, I knocked the staff from the seat-side out. Turns out that the thickness of the seat left, now a small ring, was only 0.1mm. The balance wheel hole is in perfect shape and no damage done to the wheel at all. Of course, if the wheel has a "wobble" or isn't seated true on the balance staff, you can't get as close and there will be more left of the seat. In my case, it all worked perfect 🙂 I'm very happy how this worked for me 😊  
    • As is tradition, one step forward, two steps back. Got the board populated and soldered into place without any issues.   But no hum. So I started testing the coils with an ohmmeter. I got 5.84k ohms across D1 (from red to red in the picture below), which is as expected. But I'm getting an open circuit for the other drive coil and feedback coil, D2 and F1 (from green to each of the two yellows).   Since the movement was working with my breadboard setup, it implies I somehow broke the connection between the coils and the solder lugs. They're all the way at the bottom of the lugs, but maybe the heat migrated down and broke the connections? I guess it's possible it happened while cleaning the flux off, but I used a soft artist's brush and isopropyl alcohol. I did a lot of high magnification examination, and I don't see any issues, but let me know if you see anything I missed or if you can think of anything else I should check.
    • 1947 NOS Ambassador 'C'. Actually, the case came without the movement so the movement isn't NOS, but she sure is pretty.
    • Hi attached is the AS 20XX. Service sheet although there is no 2063 mentioned it may be of some use to you AS_AS 2060,1,2,6,4,6.pdf
×
×
  • Create New...