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Good morning, I'm really struggling with this and have run out of ideas. I've got a eta 1080 missing it's regulator arm, replacement was easy and cheap to get hold of, but I need to fit it over the inner lip of the stud ring on the right of the pic. When I pinch the stud ring closing it's gap they are both the same size, so to get the regulator arm on I need to hold the close the strut ring, hold open the regulator arm ring in a manner that means I can still fit one onto the other. At a loss. I've all the usual watch making tools available, apart from a lathe...I can picture a jig that would do the job. I hope someone has a clever trick! -
Thanks for that, very helpful. But naturally, the more you learn, the more questions you have! Cousins have domed crystals in any diameter and multiple thicknesses. The gasket is still in my watch, and with a vernier, if I push a bit, I measure the inside diameter as 36.0mm. So, knowing nothing, that seems like it would be a reasonable interference fit, but is there a better way to figure this out? And how best to determine the correct thickness to use? Is it OK to re-use the gasket, or should I buy a new one? I probably have a bunch more questions, but that'll do for now 🙂 -
By Neverenoughwatches · Posted
Some of the basics apply to just about about everyone but yep definitely a personal choice for the finer points. What i found with handling bigger parts with narrow tweezers is that the surface grip is low and the part would often slip and move around while it was being positioned so i try to use the wider brass 2mm for as much as i can even screws to i certain size. Titanium is definitely worth a go , i bought these a while back but have only just begun to try them out, i made the tips really wide and then use the edges for lifting screws out. 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 i really must be more aware of what is in my photo shot you're all lucky i have underpants on 🤣🤣🤣🤣 -
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Definitely. An alternative is placing a thin/transparency sheet of plastic on top of it and working "through it". That also works really well when you want to re-insert it. Also reduces the risks that @Nucejoe is referring to with a bit less hassle. Frankly, most beginners/intermediates are more likely to damage the hairspring/balance when removing it from the cock. But you raise a good point. When turning the arms of these shock springs, make sure you're just exerting sideways pressure, not pushing down too much. -
What you describe sounds perfectly reasonable. I can't disagree with anything. I guess we come to a point where it's really about personal preference. Personally, I use my brass tweezers dressed to about 1mm for almost everything. From plates to screws and jewels. I rarely find them bent. But I do have to dress them frequently. Then I use thicker brass tweezers (2mm tip), e.g. for inserting the barrel arbor or sometimes for thicker springs. And No5 steel to manipulate shock settings (not grabbing, but just pushing with the 0.1mm tip). Wide and thin carbon tweezers for dials and hands (or jewel picker-uppers), respectively. But this is all personal preference, I think. Most approaches seem to be fair game as long as we're not scratching bridges with steel tweezers.
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