Brass tweezer recommendation
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By nevenbekriev · Posted
What is seen on the first video (by the hairspring breathing) is that the amplitude is really high. The other thing seen is that when expands, the hairspring probably touches the stud. So, what You can do is center the hairspring better as it will stay a little away from the stud. Then, check You amplitude. One way to do it is to put a dot with marker on the balance rim and observe it's movement. The other way is to check if the lift angle for the movement is different from the magical number 52 and insert the correct number in the timegrapher. And if really rebanking happens, then You can return the old spring and check what will happen then. Yes, You can close a little the regulator pin. But it will not solve the problem. -
I have to double check the lid. I do remember seeing an index mark on some part of it last night that I didn't expect to see one. I don't remember if it was the lid or not. Why would they have created them where orientation is necessary? Or was it a limitation of the fabrication technology available at the time? Will do. Thank you. Though I should mention that the barrel did not have the mainspring in it when I took the picture. -
I was able to move the problem to the DU position by changing the height of the stud pin in the balance bridge. 😵💫 Initially, I had the stud pin in as far as it would go (I had removed the balance wheel from the cock to clean the pivots). I loosened the stud screw and let it find the position that it wanted to and tightened it back up. The craziness moved to DU. Fiddled with stud position, to get the mainspring to lay flat, but that brought the problem back to DD. I'm not sure what you call this type of regulating pin arrangement. You need a screwdriver to rotate the one side to release the hairspring. There's a little ledge that sticks out from that rotating piece and the hairspring could be rubbing on that. It does look like the regulating pin gap needs to be minimized. I measured the old mainspring at 1.6mm x 0.11mm x 9mm and that is what I ordered. Got it from Cousins, GR4514. Emmy Watch does list mainsprings with slightly different specs. https://www.emmywatch.com/db/movement/benrus--ba/ There does seem to be a bit much gap between the regulator pins. I will try to adjust that. Yes, fully wound. Though, I let it run overnight and checked it this morning and it was still acting bizarrely. It can be intermittent. The timegraph can look more normal, then start going awry. Once awry, though, I haven't seen it go back to normalcy unless I change the position and then go back to DD. That is not always the case, though. -
By nevenbekriev · Posted
Well, in the fusee barrels You shouldn't put the lid in wrong position as the hole in the barrel where the chain hook goes must be exactly against the cut place in the lid. If not, the chain hook may not get in place. OP, What You should do is to remove the spring from the barrel and assemble it exactly as it looks in the photos. Then grasp the arbor with something and rotate the barrel. This will show if the barrel is not true or the arbor itself is not true. If the barrel rotates true, then the arbor is the reason for the tilting. If the barrel doesn't rotate true, and this is so much that rectifying is needed, then the best option is to make new lid that will compensate for the barrel being not true. If this is to be done, I will give further instructions what to do. -
By RichardHarris123 · Posted
Well I've learnt something.
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