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First Staking Set


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Well ive just bought my first staking set heres the item number from the bay 281935005753, now as it's my first one im going to have to do some research on how to use it. My main concern is the anvil, as you can see its a stand alone block and not one of these gucci ones that hold the stakes vertical, obviously I can see the need for a vertically held stake, but can I happily use this set with just the block as long as im careful?

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Hi transporter,

 

I think it is OK to have a set like that but I'm a little concerned about how to use it for precision work (meaning perfectly vertical and controlled depth). For that you need the regular type like the Favorite or Bergeon models (not recommending any but the way they are made). I particularly own a K&D R18 that allows to do jeweling too. It incorporates a micrometer and many more stakes and anvils for a great variety of tasks. It costs more but can be had on ebay for maybe 2 or 3 times more than what you paid...I believe, given the type of staking tool I'm talking about, it is preferable. Just MHO.

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

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I agree bob, ive seen the staking tables for sale on their own, which I'm on the look out for now. I will check the diameter of the stakes in my set and see if they are suitable to be used in a staking table. If they are completly for clocks the seller has agreed for me to return with a full refund. So either way atleast I'm happy.

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Excellent value for £50, well done sir! I'm curious to know why the hole is off centre at the top of the frame?

 

I believe that the off centre hole is in a sleeve that itself sits in a larger hole in the top of the frame and can be rotated so that the axis of the guide hole/sleeve can be adjusted closer too or further away from the centre of the table. This allows the axis of the guide sleeve hole to be brought perfectly into alignment with the axis of the holes in the table, even if the manufacturing tolerances of the frame aren't that close. Once properly aligned the sleeve is usually clamped tight with a grub screw in the side of the frame.

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Sometimes, the old tools are the best tools, such as old watch screw drivers and tweezers, there's something about the quality of the steel that makes them stronger than the modern versions, even of the most expensive ones.

 

These are some other tools I bought from the markets, and I've gotten a huge amount of use out of them. (Oh and my rubber watch ball opener, I couldn't live without that.)

 

There are only two tools I use as much as these, which is my timing machine, and a pair of digital calipers.

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Edited by BeyondWorld
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I believe that the off centre hole is in a sleeve that itself sits in a larger hole in the top of the frame and can be rotated so that the axis of the guide hole/sleeve can be adjusted closer too or further away from the centre of the table. This allows the axis of the guide sleeve hole to be brought perfectly into alignment with the axis of the holes in the table, even if the manufacturing tolerances of the frame aren't that close. Once properly aligned the sleeve is usually clamped tight with a grub screw in the side of the frame.

Thanks for that Marc. :)

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I believe that the off centre hole is in a sleeve that itself sits in a larger hole in the top of the frame and can be rotated so that the axis of the guide hole/sleeve can be adjusted closer too or further away from the centre of the table. This allows the axis of the guide sleeve hole to be brought perfectly into alignment with the axis of the holes in the table, even if the manufacturing tolerances of the frame aren't that close. Once properly aligned the sleeve is usually clamped tight with a grub screw in the side of the frame.

Yeah, there's a screw to the side that allows it to be adjusted.

Edited by BeyondWorld
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Well it arrived yesterday and I collected it today, and I'm happy to say that's it's watch orientated and not clock, already used it tonight on my 1908 waltham pocket watch, I needed to properly attach the roller table to the balance arbour, a couple of light taps and roller table is now sat square and tight. I have also a staking table on its way that I picked up for £17.00 so well happy with a total price of under £50 for a complete staking set, obviously minus a few bits but it's close enough for now.

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  • 3 weeks later...

At our school we have a whole range of staking sets ranging from very early ones to the latest.

 

You might find an anvil with a vertical guide works better.  I have a Marshall staking set which I restored and for which I was given a bunch of the missing punches and stumps so that it's now complete.

 

Recently I found an anvil at a second hand store for $5.  Restored it and checked for trueness and it works great.  Building a second staking set around it.

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