Jump to content

Cheap Unprofessional Plastic Polish


matabog

Recommended Posts

The victim:

post-150-0-08978900-1454745316_thumb.jpg

 

 

The murderers:

post-150-0-91280100-1454745311_thumb.jpg

 

 

2-3 steps with the nail file:

post-150-0-58887000-1454745322_thumb.jpg

post-150-0-76303400-1454745326_thumb.jpg

 

 

final step, with Polywatch

post-150-0-90325900-1454745337_thumb.jpg

 

 

 

It takes no more then 15-20 minutes... 30 if you have two left hands, like me.

Edited by matabog
  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice job.

I used to use liquid brasso on a rough cloth and rub the Perspex glass vigorously on it. The heat generated would help polish the glass nicely.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

hi matabog,

beautiful work!

i was wondering if you would mind posting a more detailed step by step of how you did that. (please)

i am presently working on a beautiful Hampden whose crystal needs work.

i either fix the crystal or order a new glass one from WW.

he is very reasonable but i would rather fix what i have.

I love this site by the way

thanks

Todd. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The nail file that I used is a cheap chinese 7-faces nail file. I used only the faces 3 and 4 which I believe are the equivalent of some 800-1000 and 1500-2000 grit paper. The nail file has a soft rubber material immediately under the grit-paper and so it somehow better contacts the plastic watch-glass. After covering all the deep scratches with the lower grit-paper I turned to the higher grit one. You can do that in two or three steps, depending on your hurry. My advice: clean up after each step because if you get a "large piece" of plastic from a previous step in the current higher-grit paper you will induce several other scratches.

 

In the end put some cotton material on a soft surface (I use that yellow sponge-like material) and over it put a drop of polywatch. After about 5 minutes it will look spotless.

 

The above "method" is what works for me It is my personal opinion - others may differ.

 

Bogdan
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I do appreciate that some people will spend time to refurb an item to keep the original but on a personal basis I would always know that the crystal wasn't right and it would annoy me.

 

I'm sure that it would cost less to just get a new crystal and replace the old one. Job done and a sparkling new looking watch.

 

Mike

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think it is debatable.

 

The topic title is Cheap and Unprofessional Plastic Polish. I am talking about a 30$ watch for myself, not for a customer - I am not a watch repairer, just a hobbyist.

 

I didn't polish it to keep the original but because it was cheaper and easier.

 

Thank you,

Bogdan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Bogdan, I'm not saying you are wrong in any way and I do appreciate what you say so please don't misunderstand me.

 

Perhaps I am lucky and watch crystals are very easy to obtain here, also I am retired with a decent pension so if I want to keep a watch for my own use then I want it to be perfect without, what I consider to be unnecessary work, and I am lucky enough to be able to pay for most parts without any difficulty.

 

I think you have done a great job and wish you all the best.

 

Keep up the good work.

 

Mike

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I apologise if i seemed defensive - english is not my first language, obviously.

 

For me, all the fun is in the watch movement. I am not too interested in the rest. The fact that it is a new crystal or a polished one makes no difference to me.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My tuppence worth.

I prefer to sand down and polish acrylic crystal if they are original to the watch. On numerous times I have ordered replacement crystals for vintage watches and found the profile to be incorrect. I guarantee an acrylic crystal sanded and polished properly will have as good a finish as a new one. Done correctly it takes quite a bit of time, you won't do it properly in five minutes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

I prefer to sand down and polish acrylic crystal if they are original to the watch. On numerous times I have ordered replacement crystals for vintage watches and found the profile to be incorrect. I guarantee an acrylic crystal sanded and polished properly will have as good a finish as a new one. Done correctly it takes quite a bit of time, you won't do it properly in five minutes.          

Agree, specially knowing that those factory made have been done in the same way by machines...and what about the satisfaction of having the authentic item and restored by yourself!! It is a pleasure that can not be described...

 

Also, it is a hobby anyway!

 

Two more pennies! :)

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Next is to drill the screwhole this then provides an anchor point so the bridge doesnt slip around while scribing the shape. A cork lid, a pin and a piece of gaffer tape ( 😅 ) keeps it all in place. The hole is measured from the broken part using a hand measuring gauge. Mark the hole, punch it and drill it off to size. The awkward bit is working out where the jumper should be and the detent positions.  I remember watching a youtuber a while back do this with dividers, so i dug out my old school compasses and improvised a little. This bridge only has one hole and to find the detent positions you need two points of reference, so i just worked the second point from one of the corners, hopefully its near enough. Then scribe in the jumper using the two detent positions ( wind and time set ) that were marked and a big picture of the complete spring to look at that helps to give you a feel of where the jumper should be. 
    • Right now I'm making do with a similar micrometer (the one below is $45 shipped but you can find better deals) and a $20 stand. You do have to be excruciatingly careful measuring jewels, since there's no table, but if you don't have the $500 to throw around, it's a nice option.
    • As  I kid, I'd watch Godzilla stomping over buildings and cars and I'd think to myself: Tokyo is a really dangerous place to live... . Cool watch!!
    • Next one up an AS 554, looks like a bit more to this one. First job is to check thickness, most springs are somewhere between .3 and .4, this one measures .35, that matches in with the .4 spring steel i ordered. So for marking up a permanent marker comes in handy to colour up the steel to be marked later with a scriber once its dry. Bestfit provide the extra bit of info for the jumper spring that is missing.
    • Thanks again, Marc.  Super helpful. I was wondering what the hole was for, and now it makes perfect sense. With your help and the other members here, it looks like I'm good to go with my Seitz tool set. I had to order some replacement pushers, but with those, the set is complete and in good condition. Now, I need to figure out what tool to buy to measure jewels (amongst other watch-related parts). I had my eye on the JKA Feintaster micrometers, but people get crazy bidding on them for $400-600 USD. I was thinking of just a regular digital micrometer (Mitutoyo). Thoughts?  Mahalo. Frank      
×
×
  • Create New...