Jump to content

Acier Garanti Wf 5677 "we Got (Another) One!!!!!!"


Recommended Posts

Well, to misquote Ghostbusters, anyhoo.

 

I have a small stock of watches left from my supplier (Corporation Recycling Operative), just retired.  My father uses the same "Unwanted Material Filing Executive" but keeps the big names and obvious profits to himself and (being a dyslexic old-boy) passes the cheap-stuff, "broken-crap" and unknowns on to me.

 

This falls under "broken-crap" to Dad and "unknown" to me.

 

Please look at the pictures I've been able to post.

 

The inside watch-case (hinged) is stamped as the title above.  I take this to mean "guaranteed steel" and serial/model number and that the case may well have been gun-metal.  The watch winds but will not run (I've not wound it far), needs a glass and polishing/bluing to within an inch of its life.  However, my questions...

  • What is the "WF" - I assume a maker?
  • What mechanism is fitted?  It looks jewelled to me and is beautifully laid out but bears no info
  • There's a monogram/shield/symbol on the rear showing what appears to be a stylised "H" in an "Inri" style fish.
  • Is it a serial/model number that can be traced?
  • The only markings what looks like an "R" and an "A" (or "I" or "L") and a graded scale for adjustment.
  • The "Isolator" button frees the hands for setting nice and easily.

ANY help on provenance, maker, mechanism, materials and value (or even a few "what the f###, never even seen one) would help!

 

FINALLY

Yes, the £1 coin's obviously a fake.  I only noticed whilst looking at these pics.  WHO is SO broke it's worth the manpower hours and lead-bill to fake pound-coins?!?!"?!"

post-1610-0-94014400-1454348400_thumb.jp

post-1610-0-02178200-1454348407_thumb.jp

post-1610-0-01517100-1454348416_thumb.jp

post-1610-0-01004100-1454348424_thumb.jp

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Considering the state of the watch, the WF is easy to guess! :) Sorry, I couldn't resist! :) But my knowledge is not big on pocket watches...or any other watch type for instance...lot to learn! I would venture a company name that might or might not have ever dealt with watches, either for promotion/employee farewell or custom made for them: Wells Fargo. How about that as a guess?!

 

Other than that, I'll let our pocket watch experts to tell all about it....and I like the watch a lot, I only wish it had a seconds hand (a small one at 6) and maybe incabloc...too much to ask? For all I know you may have a valuable classic there.

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Your right ro63rto its gun metal. Think its Swiss and called a 5 bar movement which has a cylinder escapement, with these the escapement doesn't have pallets. Setting the hands you press in the little stud at the top next to the large winding button. Yes it is jewelled which takes it to be better than a movement that is not. This is a mass produced movement, I don't know about the WF. Removing the movement turn the screw that looks as if part of the head is missing so the head is in line with the movement and a light push should release the movement from the case. This falls under "broken-crap" to Dad. I agree with him. Little or no value I'm sorry to say.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you Oldhippy, you've actually made me happier than if you'd said "don't touch it!  Sell it as is!" as it means I can now play with this little item.  It's been a long while since I blued anything!

 

I'd still love to know what the emblem is thought but am assuming it's a lesser-known family emblem.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If there is rust (iron oxide) on the case it's not gunmetal.

 

Gunmetal is a form of bronze/brass/copper (a number of variations) so it will not display normal rust symptoms as you have shown.

 

If the case is iron steel, it will take to cleaning and blueing as the same as a rifle barrel.

 

Be sure to remove the movement and strip all case parts apart before cleaning and blueing.

 

Cheers

 

Jim

Edited by JimInOz
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If there is rust (iron oxide) on the case it's not gunmetal.

 

Gunmetal is a form of bronze/brass/copper (a number of variations) so it will not display normal rust symptoms as you have shown.

 

If the case is iron steel, it will take to cleaning and blueing as the same as a rifle barrel.

 

Be sure to remove the movement and strip all case parts apart before cleaning and blueing.

 

Cheers

 

Jim

Thank you, will do!

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • As with every skill it watchmaking, it takes practice. Notice at the top of the document it says, "Practical work - 40 hours".  I can get the balance wheels 'close enough' to flat, but never seem to get them perfect. Same with gear wheels. Guess I need more practice.
    • Has it got a beat adjustment on the platform or is it a fixed hairspring? in short what you are looking at to get it just about in beat is to get the roller jewel sitting dead centre between the banking pins. So remove the platform and take of the pallet fork and escape wheel to give you clear line of site, sit the platform with the balance in place and with it level look between the banking pins and see if the roller jewel is sitting between them, if it is nice and central its there or there abouts in beat, if its not the the position of the pinned end of the hairspring needs to be adjusted to move the roller jewel into the correct position, thats why I asked if it has an adjustment on the platform or not, if it has its an easier job. 
    • I've managed to adjust it. I'm going to try and explain it as well as I can with my limited horology knowledge but I hope it helps someone in the future. There is a cam to the right of the front plate as shown in the picture. As the clock ticks along, the pin indicated in the gear comes around and slots into one of the silencer cam gaps, turning the cam. The pin completes a full rotation in 2 hours. To adjust the cam to start at the right time set the clock to just before 7. I did 6:45. Then I turned the silencer cam anticlockwise, which spins freely, until it pushed the silencer lever up and was placed just before the drop. Just before the 7AM indicated in the picture. All I then had to do was progress the hands to 7-7:15which made the pin slot into the silencer cam gap and turn the cam so the lever comes down again, unsilencing the clock. That was it. If anyone comes across this issue again I'd be happy to assist. Thanks again to everyone that helped. Hey Transporter! Thanks a lot for the reply. That was a really good explanation and I'm sure it would have made my troubleshooting a lot less painful haha. I'm sure someone will find it useful in the future. Thank you again for taking the time to try and help me out with this.
    • Now I'm completely confused, it would appear that the epilame  is oleophobic  as @Marc states: This oleophobic  behavior can be seen as beading of the droplet (as above) which stops the oil spreading which is supported by what we observe on treated/untreated cap stones (for example), but as @VWatchie states this should make the drops more mobile and is supported by the literature:   A review on control of droplet motion based on wettability modulation principles design strategies recent progress and applications.pdf   However the hole point is that we have less mobile oil so an oleophobic  would see to be the opposite of what we want. In fact this beading and high mobility are desirable properties in things like smart phone covers, see below.  I am fairly sure that epilame doesn't make the droplets more mobile, so maybe its a strange coating with dual properties that are both oleophobic (beading) and cohesive/adhesive resulting in low mobility?? This may explain the high price??  
    • The description there is exactly how it's done, and it's very well written!
×
×
  • Create New...