Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I know how to polish scratches out of acrylic lenses but I am a bit wary about attacking a mineral glass lens.  I ordered some cerium oxide online (now have a bag of it) and I was fortunate enough to have been given a Dremel kit for Christmas which includes a lot of felt pad tips.

 

I have a watch with a mineral glass lens that has a tiny nick in it...only visible if you look closely.  Problem is I KNOW it's there and I am obsessive about such things.  Please tell me if the following procedure to polish the lens is correct:

 

1. Wear a mask and protective eye wear.

 

2. Using masking tape, mask around the outer part of the lens so that the watch has a protective collar.

 

2. Dab a bit of the oxide on a wet cotton q-tip and smear it on the lens.

 

3. Use the Dremel with the felt tip for no longer than thirty seconds and then wait a bit for the glass to cool down.

 

4. Do step 3 and 4 again for a couple of more repeats.

 

5. Wipe off the remaining oxide, clear off the masking tap and wipe with a microfibre cloth.

 

Is that about right???

Posted

After struggling with cerium oxide slurries that fly around all over the shop when spun on a Dremel mop, I was encouraged by other members to use diamond pastes, now very cheap, oil based and faster than cerium oxide. Here is one source:

 

eBay # 301295006953

  • Like 1
Posted

Isn't it difficult to get an even surface when polish with a dremel? Have polished mineral crystals by putting a 1200 emery paper on a flat surface and pressing the crystal or the whole watch against the paper instead . Then polish it with ceriumoxide.

Posted

Thanks for the advice.  I am fearful of using sand paper.  I once had a really bad experience trying to remove a deep scratch in the clear coat of my car's paint.  I had the finest grade and did all the things I was told to do but I still managed to ruin a section of the clear coat necessitating taking the car to a body repair shop and having it professionally (and expensively) resprayed.

 

Oh how I wish that Nissan would allow all companies to access their data on self-healing paint finishes.  Why they haven't used it on all their cars is a bit perplexing but, I suppose, to do so would mean the finishes on the cars would never age, thereby diminishing sales.  It reminds me of that great British film: "The Man in the White Suite" (1951- Alec Guinness starring)

Posted

After struggling with cerium oxide slurries that fly around all over the shop when spun on a Dremel mop, I was encouraged by other members to use diamond pastes, now very cheap, oil based and faster than cerium oxide. Here is one source:

 

eBay # 301295006953

i just looked up that link. i really would like to try my hand at polishing mineral crystal. i have quite a few that need help.

in using this stuff, what kind of a base would you use as a flat surface to polish a crystal? i would think that using something such as glass, it would dish out quite fast and be "nonflat" really quick. maybe?

Posted

What I have done quite successfully is grind crystals on a diamond abrasive plate. I have a sharpening block with 4 different sized diamond plates  about 200 x 75mm , I got some watches from Ramon that the crystals were opaque they were so badly scratched, I started off at 400 grit then 600 grit on the diamond then wet & dry emery paper on a sheet of glass 800, 1200, 1500 and 2000 grit grinding wet, (takes a lot of time) then used a dremel with a felt wheel and "Brasso", (a metal polishing paste got used of it in the Army polishing the brass ware ) works well on plastic crystals but don't use the dremel ot you will melt the plastic.

 

Max

Posted (edited)

well, i've got at least 8 or ten of them. at about 30+ bucks each, it adds up. i'd like an alternate to buying.

 

i remember that max posted his method on another forum, but i never got around to using that method. i was hoping that you might chime in, max.

Edited by ramrod
Posted

well, i've got at least 8 or ten of them. at about 30+ bucks each, it adds up. i'd like an alternate to buying.

I didn't realize how prices had gone up from my days at watchmaking. 

Posted (edited)

After struggling with cerium oxide slurries that fly around all over the shop when spun on a Dremel mop, I was encouraged by other members to use diamond pastes, now very cheap, oil based and faster than cerium oxide. Here is one source:

eBay # 301295006953

Diamond pastes are also good for polishing stainless steel watch case and bracelet to mirror finish.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Edited by steven

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hello all, just disassembling to service, but I can’t figure out the working of the calendar work…it’s not operational the jumper and spring are ok, but the operation of the driving wheel has me at a loss. I can’t see a cam to drive anything. Is something damaged or missing? Help please!
    • Believe the relume (not a fan) was done a long time after the damage. 
    • I can only think of some chemical reaction to reluming
    • I have a little milling attachment for my WW lathe, but very rarely use it and not for wheel and pinion cutting. For that I use a small Sixis 101 milling machine. I normally do direct dividing, but sometimes have to do an odd count and use the universal index which also fits on the Sixis.   Back in the day when I didn't have a mill, I would cut gearing on my Schaublin 102. It has a universal dividing attachment which fits the back of the spindle. Both it and the one for the Sixis are 60:1 ratio, and with the set of 4  index plates I can do almost any division. When I've had to do a strange high count prime number, I print a disc with the needed division and just place the plunger on the dot. Any position error is reduced by a factor of 60 so still plenty accurate.   The machines are a mess in the pics as I'm in the process of making a batch of barrels for a wristwatch 🙃.   This is the Sixis. The head can also be placed vertically, as can the dividing spindle.   Dividing plates. The smaller ones fit another dividing spindle.   Universal divider for the Sixis. I put it together with parts from an odd Sixis spindle that takes w20 collets, like the Schaublin 102, and a dividing attachment from a Schaublin mill.     The dividing attachment for the 102. The gear fits in place of the handwheel at the back of the headstock.   And the little milling attachment for the WW lathe. I just set it on the slide rest to illustrate the size, you can see from the dust on it it really doesn't get used much. I think only when I change bearing in the head, to kiss the collet head seat (grinding wheel still in the milling attachment).
    • I read a lot about the quality (or lack thereof) of Seiko's 4R, 6R, 8L  movements...or more specifically the lack of regulation from the factory. Especially when compared to similar priced manufactures using SW200's or ETA's. I thought I'd ask those more in the know, do the 4R's and 6R's deserve their bad reputation, is it fairly easy for someone with minimal skills (or better yet a trained watch mechanic) to dial in these movements to a more acceptable performance.    For background I spent more on a 1861 Speedy years ago, expecting that the advertised 0-15s/d  would probably perform more like 5-7s/d. In reality it's been closed to 2-4s/d. 
×
×
  • Create New...