Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have replaced a few mainsprings with new (and reused a bunch) and I am starting to get a collection of old mainsprings. Some of them are obviously no good ('set', coned, kinks, broken terminations etc) and some look like they could be reused if necessary. Not being a fan of throwing things out, what could I use these scrap mainsprings for? Any tools I can make with them?

The ones that look OK, I might clean, grease and wind back into the shipping ring that the new spring came in. I will then label and stash them away in a plastic bag. You never know when you are servicing the same watch in the future, you might find that the mainsprings are no longer available and it might be preferable to use the spare over the one in the movement. 

Posted
Just now, Simeon said:

The ones that look OK, I might clean, grease and wind back into the shipping ring that the new spring came in. I will then label and stash them away in a plastic bag. You never know when you are servicing the same watch in the future, you might find that the mainsprings are no longer available and it might be preferable to use the spare over the one in the movement. 

I suggest we all send you our used mainspring collection. 

A draw back to this is, the problem you will then have,  is a bigger problem.  lol 

 

  • Haha 1
Posted

@Simeon - I  took an 8 cm section of a broken wristwatch mainspring, filed a V-shaped notch in one end, and another slightly-hook-shaped notch in an edge just a bit down from the V.  I chuck it in a pin vise and use it to help align pivots on full-plate movements.  It's so thin that I can reach around and over obstacles easily with it. Makes setting all the pivots much easier.

  • Like 4
  • Thanks 1
Posted
On 8/29/2024 at 11:08 AM, KarlvonKoln said:

I chuck it in a pin vise and use it to help align pivots on full-plate movements.

This is a great idea, I'm using it on my next 18s.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

That's interesting use of old mainsprings.  I  might just make myself a hairspring collet adjusting tool, a couple of hairspring collet removal levers and a regulator pin adjusting tool.  Maybe even a pivot locator tool.  Just need to make the individual blades and use a couple of old Xacto handles to hold them.

Edited by gpraceman
  • Like 1
Posted
6 minutes ago, gpraceman said:

That's interesting use of old mainsprings.  I  might just make myself a hairspring collet adjusting tool, a couple of hairspring collet removal levers and a regulator pin adjusting tool.  Maybe even a pivot locator tool.  Just need to make the individual blades and use a couple of old Xacto handles to hold them.

I tried that, they dont grip the thinness of the spring. Just cut a tight slot in pegwood to set them into or better still the Chinese takeaway skewers are thicker, make better handles. Clear nail varnish holds the springs in place perfectly. Something to note keep the hand lever ones set in close, leaving too much sticking out from the handle gives them excess springy.

I left mine a tad too long and one lever acted like a diving board and flicked a practice collet and spring a foot in the air 🤣

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
7 hours ago, gpraceman said:

Made up some real quick.  The blade handles seem to hold them well enough.  We'll see how well these work out.

20240831_153117.jpg

I couldn't make mine hold in exacto handles at 0.07mm, but these are way too long graceman.They need  to be no more than 5mm sticking out from the handles.for average sized balalce wheels. A stouter sized spring than i used for bigger balances. I feel the exacto handles are probably too big.

4 hours ago, HectorLooi said:

There is no way that skinny spring steel can lift a properly tightened collet. If you don't believe me, try it on a 2836 collet that is unsplit.

Not at this length hector. I usually use two needles with flattened angled and sharpened ends to lift collets, if the collet is tight then i resort to two flat exacto blades with one bevel edge. The odd occasion i have still struggled to get these in the gap without marking the balance wheel and collet if there is no continuous bevel rim to the underside of the collet to lever from. The spring levers at under 0.1mm with one bevel edge are thin and strong enough to seperate the collet and balance wheel providing they are short. The balance i posted was quite small and the collet was tight, and did tske some pushing force from the levers to enter the join and seperate but they did hold up. A thicker or wider mainspring  can solve any strength issues.

Edited by Neverenoughwatches
Posted
1 hour ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

I couldn't make mine hold in exacto handles at 0.07mm, but these are way too long graceman.They need  to be no more than 5mm sticking out from the handles.for average sized balalce wheels. A stouter sized spring than i used for bigger balances. I feel the exacto handles are probably too big.

The length can easily be adjusted.  There's always pegwood, if the handles don't work out.

  • Like 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...